3.0si Advice for a few issues.

[Anonymous]

Hi Everyone,

I’m having a few issues with the Z4 that I would appreciate some advice on please.

The car has been standing for a while and the issues are:

•My key has stopped working and the ‘clown nose’ has stopped flashing red.
•The radio has stopped working.
•One xenon bulb started to fail (salmon pink colour) but has revived itself and is working as usual now.
•Today the abs, brake and traction control amber warning lights came on today at motorway speed. There is no change in the cars behaviour or characteristics though. No error codes have tripped on three different OBDII scan tools (I suspect that this is a BMW specific code). See photo.

My troubleshooting so far has been:

•Ive tested the battery and it’s fine at 12.8 volts
•I will be changing some fuses tomorrow once I get some.
•Ive washed the car, particularly the brake sensors to try and remove any grime.
•inflated the tyres as they were very low (thinking it could cause issues with the ride height sensors)
•Reset codes but they have reappeared.

Any further advice would be much appreciated please.
Im praying it’s a faulty sensor and fuses!

Cheers,

Strav

 

[Mr Tidy]

Last year I SORN'd my car for a month and the battery went flat. I got it going with a jumper-pack but then got those same three amber lights, commonly called the "trifecta" on here!

A new battery didn't clear them so I took a trip to Ross at RBM and he managed to clear them by resetting the steering angle sensor.

Unless maybe it is this problem:- https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=116884

You say you got 12.8V on the battery but was that with the engine running?

Only you say the car hadn't been used for a while and BMWs seem to throw up random warning lights when the battery is discharged/dying.

My previous Z4 threw up an Amber EML and when my Indy was running diagnostics the battery died. But he found fault codes for post-cat 02 sensors on both banks. A new battery and codes cleared solved that one!

Hope you can get it sorted.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the reply.

The battery reading was with the engine off and the battery is about 1year old.

It seems like it’s probably an odd electrical issue, that’s tripped a sensor or something.

I’ll keep doing a bit of digging.

 

[Anonymous]

On a side note, does anyone have a suggestion for a decent Z4 compatible OBDII reader please?

I’ve tried Icar pro, Carista and a cheapo one from euro car parts. However, none of these seem to like the E85 Z4 and only have partial functionality.

 

[colb]

Creator 310+ is a good code reader, works ok on my Z3 and Z4 cars covers the full range of BMW models and will read all modules fitted to the car. One point to note is that although the menu to reset or delete Transport Mode appears in the menu it is not functional it may come to life on future updates. It comes with software to download and install updates to the Scanner.
If you want to go down the laptop based diagnostics then consider BMW Scanner 1.4 that reads all modules and will reset Transport Mode. Simple to use and available on ebay as is the Creator Scanner. BMW Scanner 1.4 is less problematic to set up and use than BMW INPA.

 

[Rucky]

This combination of lights is commonly down to Wheel Speed Sensors faikling but can also be the ABS pump stuck.
It is not the Steering Angle fault - that is a different combination.

If you are keeping the car I suggest you buy a BMW specific code reader - I have an Icar soft.
You might find this useful
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=121145

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for all the advice, I’ve got my hands on a c310+ OBII reader.

I’ve reset the codes which tripped (see photos below).

I’ll give the car a run tomorrow to see if the codes re-trip and to from there.

 

[Rucky]

With 5df0 and f1 maybe disconnect the abs/ DSC multi pin connector and use an aerosol switch cleaner moisture displacement spray on both sides of the connector. If it comes back then I gues it's the brushes. If you don't fancy DIY then I believe these guys do it for about 250.
https://www.ecutesting.com/categories/abs-pump-modules/

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks, I’ve ordered some contact cleaner from screw fix and I’ll give the multi pin connectors a good clean anyway.

Is there a guide on the forum/workshop manual on how to disconnect the abs/dsc pump which I could follow.

If not I’ll figure it out.

Thanks.

 

[Rucky]

Its the big rectangular connector on the side of the pump and valve body. ( Pic 2 in the linked post).
Release the clamping lock and it slides apart.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks,

I’ve been for a drive and the codes are persistent, I don’t have hill start assist either so things are pointing towards an actual failure.

I’ll try cleaning tonight.

 

[Anonymous]

Okay so I’ve disconnected the accessible Abs/dsc connector and given it a good clean with 3x spray cycles of contact cleaner. I then tried to reset the codes but they are still persistent. Looks like an actual failure.

I’m not able to DIY this so it will be off to a garage. I’ll look into getting the Abs/Dsc reconditioned a ECU testing.

Alternatively I could get a replacement from a breakers yard/eBay - could anyone help here?

I’d rather get the work done in a garage in one go if possible, I’d rather not send the car there, get the abs/dsc pump out, send it off then have it replaced.

Thanks,

Strav

 

[Rucky]

If you buy a second hand one it may be asbad. It will also need coding to your car. It is simple to take off. Remove wheel and wheelarch cover for access. Undo pipes and retainer bracket. You may need assistance to bleed brakes properly after repair.I usedinpa to run the abs bleed cycle.

 

[Anonymous]

Got the car booked in on Friday at a local Indy who are going to take care of the issue.

Thanks for the advice everyone, they are using ECU testing for the refurb and are reasonably priced. Getting a manual transmission fluid and diff oil change too as the car is knocking on 100k.