3.0L Starter Motor

chanlon1

chanlon1

Active member
 Belfast
Bought a Denso Starter Motor some time ago with the view that I would install it eventually.
I think that day has come.......... :x
In my trials and tribulations of trying to sort out a brake pad sensor light, I tried to restart the car and heard quite a bit of clicking noises but no cranking.
Took the key out and tried again. This time nothing happened....no noises.

Is this likely to be the starter motor?
Up to now the car had been getting a bit harder and harder to start.

Think I need to watch a few videos now and how to install a new motor....and guidance and advice is welcome.
Also, any bizarre tools etc needed?
 
First, make sure it’s not your battery dying. Next, it’s probably the starter motor. I think it’s a bit harder to replace on the N52 than the M54 (which is quite easy on a 2.5i) but there is plenty written about it on this forum. The M54 requires a female torx spanner, I expect N52 is the same. I have a set like this, one of them fits.
image.jpg
 
Battery I believe is good. An auto electrician checked it not that long ago and said that it was good. Plus it’s only a year old.
Some guides say to remove the manifold, others say you don’t need to. I guess I won’t know for sure till I take a look. Not sure I will be wanting to tomorrow with Storm Kathleen rolling in….
 
Unbolt the manifold and disconnect the electrical connection at the front. This should give you enough room to lift the front end of the manifold and get at the starter by sliding your hands in from the front end
 
enuff_zed said:
Unbolt the manifold and disconnect the electrical connection at the front. This should give you enough room to lift the front end of the manifold and get at the starter by sliding your hands in from the front end
Click to expand...
Thanks
Are there gaskets I need to replace? Also any bolts that need replacing or can everything be reused?
Wondering if I need to go on a parts ordering jaunt before starting…..
 
chanlon1 said:
enuff_zed said:
Unbolt the manifold and disconnect the electrical connection at the front. This should give you enough room to lift the front end of the manifold and get at the starter by sliding your hands in from the front end
Click to expand...
Thanks
Are there gaskets I need to replace? Also any bolts that need replacing or can everything be reused?
Wondering if I need to go on a parts ordering jaunt before starting…..
Click to expand...
Ideally replace the six manifold gaskets
 
The bolts are aluminium on the N52 because they screw into the magnesium crankcase. They can’t be reused. As enuff says, you should get new ones with the starter motor. Torque on both bolts is 38Nm.
IMG_0053.png
 
Zedebee said:
The bolts are aluminium on the N52 because they screw into the magnesium crankcase. They can’t be reused. As enuff says, you should get new ones with the starter motor. Torque on both bolts is 38Nm.
Click to expand...

Thanks. What about the nut that holds the red cables? Torque on it?

I have the same motor that pvr got, but fairly sure there wasn’t any bolts with it. Paul, any come with yours?
 
chanlon1 said:
Zedebee said:
The bolts are aluminium on the N52 because they screw into the magnesium crankcase. They can’t be reused. As enuff says, you should get new ones with the starter motor. Torque on both bolts is 38Nm.
Click to expand...

Thanks. What about the nut that holds the red cables? Torque on it?

I have the same motor that pvr got, but fairly sure there wasn’t any bolts with it. Paul, any come with yours?
Click to expand...
Paul supplied me with the bolts to fit it. I assumed they came with it, but maybe they were separate?

Cable nut torque is 13Nm
 
enuff_zed said:
Paul supplied me with the bolts to fit it. I assumed they came with it, but maybe they were separate?

Cable nut torque is 13Nm
Click to expand...

We will await Paul’s cultural wit as to where he gets his nuts and bolts from…….
 
It came complete with the starter (edit - no it didn’t) did you get the Denso as well? I see they have really gone up in price now :o
 
Correction - I bought them from the dealer together with the gaskets
 
pvr said:
It came complete with the starter (edit - no it didn’t) did you get the Denso as well? I see they have really gone up in price now :o
Click to expand...

Yeah I got the Denso aswell.
I see they are £169 today. When I bought it at the start of January it was £119. Not sure if there was a discount though.
Will start my search for the gasket and bolts. Will also need to source bolts for the manifold as well.
 
You don’t need to replace bolts on the manifold. 1 screw (on the left) and 6 nuts. Tightening torque is 15Nm for all. It is recommended you replace all the seals though.
 
Zedebee said:
You don’t need to replace bolts on the manifold. 1 screw (on the left) and 6 nuts. Tightening torque is 15Nm for all. It is recommended you replace all the seals though.
Click to expand...

You sure? I've the silver top engine in case it's different.
When I look at the manifold I can see 4 bolt heads and 3 nuts. I'm assuming that the bolts will need replacing as they are aluminium.
 
According to newTIS it’s a screw and 6 nuts for the 3.0Si E86, doesn’t differentiate between silver top and black top. The only bolts that need replacing as far as I know are the ones that go into the block (‘cos it’s a magnesium alloy on the N52); manifold is attached to the head.
IMG_0054.png
 
Hi Chalon1 - I have a 'Silver Top' N52 as well. Our valve cover (VC) bolts are aluminum because the VC is magnesium. The head is aluminum alloy, unlike the aluminum-magnesium block, and AFIK the intake manifold hardware is steel and can be reused. I'm preparing to do this job myself in the next month or so.

Almost on topic, I found an interesting technical sales brochure online from Arnold Fastening Systems, manufacturers of aluminum fasteners (AL9). The link is here: https://www.arnold-fastening.com/fileadmin/templates/_media/pdf/produkte/Alufast-EN.pdf

I found it searching for torque specs on AL9 bolts used to secure the serpentine belt tensioner in a 2017 Golf I was working on for my son-in-law. Arnold's brochure gives the M8 AL9 bolts a torque spec target of 11.7 Nm. Their data show that AL9 fasteners give more stable clamping forces than steel fasteners when joining alloy parts under thermal cycling. Interestingly, they even claim their aluminum fasteners can give good results in removal and reassembly - of course, you would have to be sure the previous mechanic hadn't over-torqued and ruined the fastener . . .
 
Z4Mariner said:
Hi Chalon1 - I have a 'Silver Top' N52 as well. Our valve cover (VC) bolts are aluminum because the VC is magnesium. The head is aluminum alloy, unlike the aluminum-magnesium block, and AFIK the intake manifold hardware is steel and can be reused. I'm preparing to do this job myself in the next month or so.

Almost on topic, I found an interesting technical sales brochure online from Arnold Fastening Systems, manufacturers of aluminum fasteners (AL9). The link is here: https://www.arnold-fastening.com/fileadmin/templates/_media/pdf/produkte/Alufast-EN.pdf
Click to expand...

Thanks.
Extremely geeky Sunday morning reading :D
 
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