3.0 si - common issues & have I got a deal?
- Thread starter Gg.z495
- Start date
Gg.z495 said:
IMHO these are all signs of issues to come and you should bite the bullet and get it all done, before more things wear. Then you have a good "starting point" to work from. You will also learn how the car should behave then you will be far more aware when something doesn't feel right. Get it done and enjoy it!
I'm impressed with this forum...lots of friendly, sensible and accurate advice above.
The N52 engine fitted to the si version of the Z4, is known to be one of the most reliable engines BMW has made. My last daily driver was a 130i with the same engine and I chose my December 2008 E85 si because it is a lovely engine. BMW main dealers have always practised a carefully crafted smoke and mirrors game to make their customers believe that it is essential to use them rather than a good local garage, or independent BMW specialist. Actually, these cars are not hugely complicated and most of the tech is now quite elderly as this model shares most of its mechaincal parts with the E46 3 series from 1990s.
BMW claims that the gearbox and diff are sealed for life and do not need to have their fluids (and in the case of an automatic, their filters) replaced. BMW does not manufacture its own gearboxes or diffs. Many of the diffs are Drexlers and the gearboxes are often ZF. Both of these companies suggest that they are serviced. The diff is simple and cheap to drain and refill. The automatic gearbox is more expensive to service because the filter is supplied as part of the pan, but it is a job that is well worth doing. The gearbox oil in omn of my 1 series BMWs was blackened and silvery at under 50,000 miles. Gearbox oil is golden. I was worried that the gearbox would let go, but it was fine (and still is 4 years later - I know the chap that bought it), the quality of the gear change improved markedly over the next few hundred miles.
As mentioned above, the electric water pump and thermostat is likely to die at some point soon, unless they've already been replaced. I have wondered whether thes things might fail less frequently if the coolant were to be replaced...they died on my previous 135i just after the warranty ran out and with only 50,000 miles on the clock.
The electric power steering motor may give up. My 2008 130i epas motor died when the car had 58000 miles on the clock and was 9 years old. The motor was a brute to remove from the rack, but was fixed for about £300 with a lifetime warranty.
There are plastic wells into which the roof drains on each side behind the seat belts. The drains block and then the roof motor is immersed in water with obvious consequences. Obviously these need to be kept clear. Some owners relocate the roof motor into the boot. I decided that the most easily effected precaution is to remove the rubber spider inhibitors in the bottom of the drain tubes to avoid them blocking up. They are accessible from underneath, inside the rear end of each sill.
I think mine drives much better on normal, rather than runflat tyres. The ride quality is much less crashy and I think the ultimate adhesion is also better on Michelin PS4s.
Front suspension trailing arm bushes wear out and the cars become twitchy and tramline, badly. They are only about £20 each and replacing them makes a huge difference.
The comment above about the need for timing chain replacement is quite important. Find out if anything else was done at that time.
The Z4 is a rewarding daily driver. It is from an era just before made things much more complicated and I really enjoy its relative simplicity. I have had a lot of nice cars, but this Z4 is one of my favourites.
The N52 engine fitted to the si version of the Z4, is known to be one of the most reliable engines BMW has made. My last daily driver was a 130i with the same engine and I chose my December 2008 E85 si because it is a lovely engine. BMW main dealers have always practised a carefully crafted smoke and mirrors game to make their customers believe that it is essential to use them rather than a good local garage, or independent BMW specialist. Actually, these cars are not hugely complicated and most of the tech is now quite elderly as this model shares most of its mechaincal parts with the E46 3 series from 1990s.
BMW claims that the gearbox and diff are sealed for life and do not need to have their fluids (and in the case of an automatic, their filters) replaced. BMW does not manufacture its own gearboxes or diffs. Many of the diffs are Drexlers and the gearboxes are often ZF. Both of these companies suggest that they are serviced. The diff is simple and cheap to drain and refill. The automatic gearbox is more expensive to service because the filter is supplied as part of the pan, but it is a job that is well worth doing. The gearbox oil in omn of my 1 series BMWs was blackened and silvery at under 50,000 miles. Gearbox oil is golden. I was worried that the gearbox would let go, but it was fine (and still is 4 years later - I know the chap that bought it), the quality of the gear change improved markedly over the next few hundred miles.
As mentioned above, the electric water pump and thermostat is likely to die at some point soon, unless they've already been replaced. I have wondered whether thes things might fail less frequently if the coolant were to be replaced...they died on my previous 135i just after the warranty ran out and with only 50,000 miles on the clock.
The electric power steering motor may give up. My 2008 130i epas motor died when the car had 58000 miles on the clock and was 9 years old. The motor was a brute to remove from the rack, but was fixed for about £300 with a lifetime warranty.
There are plastic wells into which the roof drains on each side behind the seat belts. The drains block and then the roof motor is immersed in water with obvious consequences. Obviously these need to be kept clear. Some owners relocate the roof motor into the boot. I decided that the most easily effected precaution is to remove the rubber spider inhibitors in the bottom of the drain tubes to avoid them blocking up. They are accessible from underneath, inside the rear end of each sill.
I think mine drives much better on normal, rather than runflat tyres. The ride quality is much less crashy and I think the ultimate adhesion is also better on Michelin PS4s.
Front suspension trailing arm bushes wear out and the cars become twitchy and tramline, badly. They are only about £20 each and replacing them makes a huge difference.
The comment above about the need for timing chain replacement is quite important. Find out if anything else was done at that time.
The Z4 is a rewarding daily driver. It is from an era just before made things much more complicated and I really enjoy its relative simplicity. I have had a lot of nice cars, but this Z4 is one of my favourites.
Gg.z495 said:
Brake hoses speak for themselves.
The other four will all be cured by fitting new front wishbones with new lollipops (that's the bush the 'pin' sits in).
I suspect with garage labour rates you'll be looking at close to £500 for that lot, if you factor in a complete brake fluid change too. May as well while the hoses are being swapped.
As a guide, my wife's car had those bottom four advisories and about 6 months after the MOT they started knocking and I had both sides changed.
