DonDon said:Many thanks B21. I have paid a reservation fee and will pick it up later this week (all being well). I also meant to ask if there is any reason to use E5 petrol (e.g. Shell V Power), or is the car quite happy on E10. I assume there is no technical reason to avoid E10.
Deepseaskateboard said:I always use Shell Vpower. Also started with redex. No idea if it makes any real world difference, probably like comparing tyre brands.
If you remapped it to use 99 or whatever Vpower is then got caught out and had to use regular gas, would that mess it up?
B21 said:Deepseaskateboard said:I always use Shell Vpower. Also started with redex. No idea if it makes any real world difference, probably like comparing tyre brands.
If you remapped it to use 99 or whatever Vpower is then got caught out and had to use regular gas, would that mess it up?
If you’ve mapped it to take advantage of 98 / 99 Ron and you then use 95 the knock sensors will come into action sensing any knock due to pre-ignition and then backing off ignition timing in real time…it’s not elegant but saves melting pistons..
I think by ‘real time’ he means it is constantly monitored and adjusted. Don’t think it drops to a default then resets. For example if you’re lightly cruising on the cheap stuff it could probably cope on the tuned figures, but when you put your foot down too heavily …..Deepseaskateboard said:B21 said:Deepseaskateboard said:I always use Shell Vpower. Also started with redex. No idea if it makes any real world difference, probably like comparing tyre brands.
If you remapped it to use 99 or whatever Vpower is then got caught out and had to use regular gas, would that mess it up?
If you’ve mapped it to take advantage of 98 / 99 Ron and you then use 95 the knock sensors will come into action sensing any knock due to pre-ignition and then backing off ignition timing in real time…it’s not elegant but saves melting pistons..
Clever. I presume it puts it all back once you put in the good stuff!!
enuff_zed said:I think by ‘real time’ he means it is constantly monitored and adjusted. Don’t think it drops to a default then resets. For example if you’re lightly cruising on the cheap stuff it could probably cope on the tuned figures, but when you put your foot down too heavily …..Deepseaskateboard said:B21 said:If you’ve mapped it to take advantage of 98 / 99 Ron and you then use 95 the knock sensors will come into action sensing any knock due to pre-ignition and then backing off ignition timing in real time…it’s not elegant but saves melting pistons..
Clever. I presume it puts it all back once you put in the good stuff!!
If you’re an old fart like me you’ll remember hearing ‘pinking’ on old engines when you worked them hard, but you could stop it simply by balancing the throttle. Similar principle but more cleverly achieved these days :
B21 said:E10 is perfectly OK for a stock N20 powered E89.
DonDon said:B21 said:E10 is perfectly OK for a stock N20 powered E89.
Cheers. I know there are claimed to be issues in general, but I wanted to know if the E89 had been found to suffer in particular. I can now save lots by sticking to E10.
B21 said:The issue’s apply primarily to much earlier cars where the methanol content could attack rubber related components and act as a corrosive material for certain structures that typically had two or more dissimilar metals in close proximity…
It applies to BMWs made in the 20th century..
matsmith749 said:B21 said:The issue’s apply primarily to much earlier cars where the methanol content could attack rubber related components and act as a corrosive material for certain structures that typically had two or more dissimilar metals in close proximity…
It applies to BMWs made in the 20th century..
That's such an oversimplified view of a complex topic.
Stating it with authority does not make it so.