2750 and 2751 codes.

Rockhopper

Senior member
 Mansfield
Site Supporter
Sat at the traffic lights just now, they turn green and i try and set off, no response from the throttle, lots of stuttering, felt like it was running on 3 pots. As its an auto i managed to limp to a handy layby at three cylinder tick over speed :-) The EML was on (yellow i think) plus other lights (cant recall which).
I turned it off, then back on again, the lights were all still on but as soon as then engine restarted they all went out and stayed out and the car ran fine for the five miles or so back home.
So 2750 and 2751 are throttle position controller jammed briefly and throttle position control jammed permanently respectively.

In the three years or so I've had the car its done the following things which may or may not be related:

Very very occasionally at tick over the engine will appear to sort of stumble, almost stop but immediately run again. Its done that perhaps four or five time in three years and i think only once this year.

The second thing it does is from a cold start it revs as normal the starts to drop back to normal idle speed but then revs drop below the idle speed and the engine almost stalls but never actually has done it then settles at the normal idle speed and will be fine for the rest of the day. It doesn't always do this though, and it had a period of six or eight months where it didn't do it at all (it used to do it before this as well, I was getting various lean codes so i replaced the split intake boot which cured it and i assumed had also cured the idle thing but perhaps not? ).

Are all this things related?

The car only does around 4000 miles a year.

Oh its an October 2004 3.0i E85 Auto by the way with about 110k on the clock :-)
 
Rockhopper said:
So 2750 and 2751

I have not had these codes but if it was me I would take the throttle body off which is very easy and check the action to see if it needs cleaning due to build up . Worth a try . :thumbsup: Might also be worth resetting the throttle if you have inpa etc or there is a way to do it manually see here https://www.rpmmotorsport.net/pages/bmw-throttle-body-adaptation-reset
 
Throttle body first.
DME as my second vote.
There are two potentiometers in the throttle body. If they do not agree then the DME drops the car to idle speed. It does this as it is a better option than leaving the throttle failed in a wide open position.
 
Thanks guys, I’ll see how it goes today then when the weather cools down a bit I’ll have a look at the throttle body.
I can imagine that having it fail wide open would be a bad thing 🤣
 
Rockhopper said:
Thanks guys, I’ll see how it goes today then when the weather cools down a bit I’ll have a look at the throttle body.
I can imagine that having it fail wide open would be a bad thing 🤣
You can check it for actual physical condition, but if it is a potentiometer failing you can't really tell.
Somewhere in the depths of google-land a long while back I found someone had taken one apart and the cogs and gears inside were wearing.
 
Yes i saw that same post. Well i did thirty miles or so today and it was a good as gold.
 
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