2007 E85 Roof won't open

[wolverine2k]

Hi All,

I've been reading through all the posts here about roof issues and there seem to be a lot of them but I've not found out that can help me yet. I picked up a Z4 with a roof that wasn't opening and I'm trying to fix it.

Here is what happens:

- Hold the button and the top light turns consistent red
- The windows go down
- The roof unlatches
- I can hear the motor in the left turning
- The roof does not move at all.

I've pulled the motor half way out (which was fun) to see if the bowden cable was seized on the motor but the cable seems to move freely against it.

Can anyone else suggest anything here? I'm totally lost.

How can I check if the pump is working properly and would those pump repair kits possibly solve my problem?

Thanks!

 

[enuff_zed]

Hi there, I think you need to get the motor right out into the boot where you can see better.
The cable moving is no guarantee I'm afraid, as it acts on a brass plunger that sticks.
So first up you would need to unscrew the plastic cover that holds the cable assembly against the brass plunger and make sure that is free to move in and out.
If that doesn't cure it, then there are a few experts on here who can advise further.

 

[JamesClements]

Hi - If the motor is turning it could be a split hydraulic hose or one of the elbows may have corroded?

 

[enuff_zed]

Hi - If the motor is turning it could be a split hydraulic hose or one of the elbows may have corroded?

Indeed it could, but until the brass plunger is proved to be working I wouldn't get too deep. That bypasses the hydraulic fluid so shows the same symptoms as a low fluid level etc.
Also, if the OP has got it out far enough to see the motor, they should have easily spotted if the reservoir was empty.

 

[JamesClements]

Hi - If the motor is turning it could be a split hydraulic hose or one of the elbows may have corroded?

Indeed it could, but until the brass plunger is proved to be working I wouldn't get too deep. That bypasses the hydraulic fluid so shows the same symptoms as a low fluid level etc.
Also, if the OP has got it out far enough to see the motor, they should have easily spotted if the reservoir was empty.

Ah i see what you mean, yes you would see the reservoir anyway which would give you a pretty good indication

 

[wolverine2k]

Wow I didn't expect responses this quick!

Ok so there's definitely fluid in there - the issue I've got is that I can't pull the motor all the way out as the cables are stuck behind the bottom half of the motor holder.

Any tips on how to get the bottom half of the holder out? The videos and tutorials don't make it out as complex as I'm finding it!

 

[enuff_zed]

Wow I didn't expect responses this quick!

Ok so there's definitely fluid in there - the issue I've got is that I can't pull the motor all the way out as the cables are stuck behind the bottom half of the motor holder.

Any tips on how to get the bottom half of the holder out? The videos and tutorials don't make it out as complex as I'm finding it!

There's a ty-wrap on the front face. Brute force is the main way I'm afraid, unless you can get a sharp blade down there without removing a couple of fingers, or slicing the pipes.
You won't need the casing once it's relocated in the boot anyway, so that won't matter.
You'll end up with it something like this:
Note that you do need to trim back a bit of the shelf mounting to allow the pipes through, but once you have the motor located there it is simple enough to see what needs to be removed.

 

[wolverine2k]

There's a ty-wrap on the front face. Brute force is the main way I'm afraid, unless you can get a sharp blade down there without removing a couple of fingers, or slicing the pipes.
You won't need the casing once it's relocated in the boot anyway, so that won't matter.
You'll end up with it something like this:
Note that you do need to trim back a bit of the shelf mounting to allow the pipes through, but once you have the motor located there it is simple enough to see what needs to be removed.

That looks awesome! How did you match the carpet so well? Did you velcro the carpet over it?

I'm going to get a screwdriver down there later and try and pry it out then! Fluid is in there, motor spins, I'm hoping it is just the plunger.

After that it's on to the CCV which I think I'll have more enjoyment doing...

 

[enuff_zed]

There's a ty-wrap on the front face. Brute force is the main way I'm afraid, unless you can get a sharp blade down there without removing a couple of fingers, or slicing the pipes.
You won't need the casing once it's relocated in the boot anyway, so that won't matter.
You'll end up with it something like this:
Note that you do need to trim back a bit of the shelf mounting to allow the pipes through, but once you have the motor located there it is simple enough to see what needs to be removed.

That looks awesome! How did you match the carpet so well? Did you velcro the carpet over it?

I'm going to get a screwdriver down there later and try and pry it out then! Fluid is in there, motor spins, I'm hoping it is just the plunger.

After that it's on to the CCV which I think I'll have more enjoyment doing...

I got a piece of boot carpet from Barry (Umfaan) on the forum who breaks zeds. Got a big bit, made a cardboard template then cut it to size.
Wedged under the shelf support at the top and a bit of velcro glued along the rear edge.

 

[wolverine2k]

Right, my hands are covered in cuts and bruising and that bottom half is still in there.

I used my camera snake and found the cable tie that was at the bottom of the fin on the bucket... attached a blade to a flathead screwdriver and snapped the cable tie clean in the middle.

But still the thing won't budge!! The cable tie is definitely snapped but its still being held down by something still. No amount of rocking and pulling is making any progress...

Any suggestions of tools to get this thing out?

Thanks!!

 

[enuff_zed]

It is possible there are other tywraps, or even that the hydraulic pipes are taped to the casing.
There really is no easy solution I'm afraid.

 

[bigwinn]

I’ve had them with two tie wraps

If you can get the motor and casing up to as far as it will travel, I then in that case got monkey grips onto the casing wall and pulled- making sure I didn’t snag or catch the hydraulic pipes

 

[wolverine2k]

It is possible there are other tywraps, or even that the hydraulic pipes are taped to the casing.
There really is no easy solution I'm afraid.

If they made every 1 in 25 cars have 2 cable ties, I guarantee you that I would always end up with the 1!

I’ve had them with two tie wraps

If you can get the motor and casing up to as far as it will travel, I then in that case got monkey grips onto the casing wall and pulled- making sure I didn’t snag or catch the hydraulic pipes

Monkey Grips! Thanks, I'll try tomorrow now as it's dark.

 

[enuff_zed]

It is possible there are other tywraps, or even that the hydraulic pipes are taped to the casing.
There really is no easy solution I'm afraid.

If they made every 1 in 25 cars have 2 cable ties, I guarantee you that I would always end up with the 1!

I’ve had them with two tie wraps

If you can get the motor and casing up to as far as it will travel, I then in that case got monkey grips onto the casing wall and pulled- making sure I didn’t snag or catch the hydraulic pipes

Monkey Grips! Thanks, I'll try tomorrow now as it's dark.

Sadly it seems after much research that by far the easiest way to remove that casing is as follows:
1. Get access to the casing through the boot.
2. Reach in as far as you can and get a firm grip of the casing.
3. Whilst holding on tightly to the casing, get a helper to remove the car.
:roll:

 

[wolverine2k]

Sadly it seems after much research that by far the easiest way to remove that casing is as follows:
1. Get access to the casing through the boot.
2. Reach in as far as you can and get a firm grip of the casing.
3. Whilst holding on tightly to the casing, get a helper to remove the car.
:roll:

Hahahahaha. I was thinking of somehow tying a rope to it and a lamppost and driving as fast as possible

 

[DashingDaryl]

Have you tried reaching it from the top. You put your seat as far forward as possible, wedge yourself behind it and reach over. If you are lucky, a different angle of attack may all you need.

 

[DashingDaryl]

it acts on a brass plunger that sticks.
So first up you would need to unscrew the plastic cover that holds the cable assembly against the brass plunger and make sure that is free to move in and out.

If it is a sticky brass plunger, is there a cure? What is the solution? A little lubrication, or replacement?

 

[bigwinn]

You need a hand and are local to Lincoln just shout buddy!

 

[BumpyZ4]

it acts on a brass plunger that sticks.
So first up you would need to unscrew the plastic cover that holds the cable assembly against the brass plunger and make sure that is free to move in and out.

If it is a sticky brass plunger, is there a cure? What is the solution? A little lubrication, or replacement?

A little lube and then work your plunger in and out a few times................ :bonk:

 

[wolverine2k]

Have you tried reaching it from the top. You put your seat as far forward as possible, wedge yourself behind it and reach over. If you are lucky, a different angle of attack may all you need.

Yeah that's what caused the bruising all over my arms haha. It's proper stuck and wedged in there! That's also the angle that I came in with the camera and the screwdriver+blade combo.

You need a hand and are local to Lincoln just shout buddy!

I'm in North East London unfortunately! Plus car currently has no MOT, was abandoned at a mechanics and never picked up. Roof, CCV, control arms, service and then onto an MOT. I could quite easily leave the roof until later but it's bugging me too much