2007 3.0 Si

Weelawser

Member
 Aberdeenshire
Folks,

Are there any easy guides out there on stripping and servicing my calipers, seems relatively straight forward....Famous last words !
Planning on New discs, pads and powder coating / painting calipers as they look a little worse for wear, cars been off the road for a while.
Thanks,
Paul
 
Weelawser said:
Folks,

Are there any easy guides out there on stripping and servicing my calipers, seems relatively straight forward....Famous last words !
Planning on New discs, pads and powder coating / painting calipers as they look a little worse for wear, cars been off the road for a while.
Thanks,
Paul

So are you just doing a cosmetic refresh? Or are you refurbishing the callipers completely? i.e. new piston, rubber seals, etc?
The disc and pads are relatively simple. Depends on how far you want to go with the callipers? I'd suggest getting a spare set of callipers, refurbishing off the car, then swap it all over when you're ready. This is what I did. I've even got my old callipers, so would lend to you... but you're pretty much the opposite end of the country! :rofl:
 
Cleaning and painting is simple enough - if you want to save a bit of cash on the powder coating, Hammerite (Smoothrite) works a treat and is super tough. Lasts years.

In terms of the caliper refurb, just did mine at home a few weeks ago as had a front brake binding slightly. Pretty easy to do and caliper refub kit is cheap enough. Only tricky bit is getting the piston dust seal seated properly. Tip - use a plastic pry tool and push the end that is up against the caliper body in first!

Oh, and pop the piston out with the caliper still connected to the car... just pump the foot brake with the caliper removed from the bracket. It will come out. Disconnect the flexy hose from the top union (where it mates to the solid pipe) first before unscrewing it from the caliper. You can buy or improvise a silicone cap to go over the solid pipe union to stop fluid dripping

You will need a pressure bleeder to bleed the brakes on re-assembly. The old manual foot pump method don't work so well on the Zed.
 
Thanks for the advice guys, discs and pads will be relatively straight forward, never thought of buying another set of calipers. could be the way forward ! Best place for refurb kits ?
 
Caliper refurb kits are cheap from autodoc or even fleabay.
Spare set of calipers would make the job much easier.
New aftermarket calipers are so cheap, I would possibly go down that route. Saves having to refurb them.
It is just a lump of cast iron; Not much difference in quality between manufacturers. Opinions will differ on that one though!! :thumbsup:
 
Biggred are known for refurbing callipers, I used one of their kits. Think they offer a service as well. http://biggred.co.uk/
Think they're on ebay as well.
 
I sent mine to big red last year when one was sticking. Refurbed and painted, back within a week. Didn't have any trouble bleeding using the old manual method.
 
I got my kit from Bigred...all good. Buying calipers for the Si is not so easy...not much stock of the bigger size. A lot of people buy the smaller calipers by mistake.
 
Iv'e just done a complete front and back strip down & rebuild. Here are a few of the problems that I encountered with the strip down.

(1) The flex hoses that connect to the caliper & the brake line where badly corroded and seized. On a couple of the calipers I had to cut the flex pipe and soak the joint in WD40 for a day to be able to get them out. The end that screws in to the brake line was a different matter, I had to cut off a section of brake line and fit new couplings. This meant I had to buy a brake pipe flare tool & make new lines. If you do have to do this make sure the flare tool makes the correct type end, it has to be a DIN ISO type flare.

(2) The bleed nipples where badly seized too and unfortunately the front ones snapped off. I tried to use and extractor, but they wouldn't budge so I had to order two new front calipers.

(3) The flex hoses at the rear are in two parts and seem to get a more corroded than the front. Because I was changing mine for HEL SS flex I wanted to try and reuse the connecting brackets so it took me ages to un-seize them.

I got all of my caliper parts from https://brakeparts.co.uk/ that included pistons, seal kits & new front calipers. The prices are fair & I spoke to the same guy a couples time who was very helpful.

I got my brass guide bushes, SS flex lines & Millers 300+ brake fluid from Hack Engineering. Again the guys there are really helpful. https://www.hackengineering.co.uk/product/millway-motorsport-brass-brake-caliper-slider-bushes-most-bmw/

I painted my calipers with Foliatec caliper paint, it comes in a good range of colors & is easy to use. one tin is more than enough to paint four calipers. I spent quite awhile removing the rust from the old calipers & I also had to remove the lacquer from the two new front ones. You don't have to prime them first, but I did apply an etching primer. I got mine from Demontweeks who is selling it for £20.50 instead of £29.99 https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/foliatec-brake-caliper-paint-and-engine-lacquer-243118/

The front discs are Brembo max & Ferodo DS2500
The rear discs are Mtec groove & Freodo DS2500

If you do go for brass bushes they can be quite a pain to get all the way in. If you use a G clamp like I did make sure they are seated straight because being made out of brass you can easily damage them. Make sure you apply plenty of geese then wipe the excess off when fitted.

When you rebuild your caliper make sure you apply some brake fluid to the piston & seal before you seat it back in the caliper. Also fit the rubber boot to the caliper before you try to seat the piston cos if you seat the piston then try to fit the cover boot you won't be able the fit the boot correctly.

The guys are right about Bleeding the system I have a Sealey VS820 Brake & Clutch Bleeding System. I flushed the complete system, even the clutch with 1 litre of new fluid. I thought that would remove all the air, but on a test drive I found the peddle to be spongy. Iv'e ordered another litre of fluid to flush again, i'll keep what comes out because the fluid should be new I just need to get the rest of the air out.

Hope this helps & I haven't put you off the idea. If you do need to replace section of brake line & don't want to do them yourself you can buy them ready made or get your local garage to do that parts for you for not a lot of money. GOOD LUCK :)
 

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Ladderman said:
If you do go for brass bushes they can be quite a pain to get all the way in. If you use a G clamp like I did make sure they are seated straight because being made out of brass you can easily damage them. Make sure you apply plenty of geese then wipe the excess off when fitted.

How you finding the brass bushes? These are primarily for wear? Or do they increase brake performance too?
I haven't had my 330 brakes long enough to comment on wear, but they work better than my old ones :)
 
Nice job Ladderman and excellent pics.
I like the idea of doing them myself, invaluable info from every one of you will let you know which way I go.
Thanks all,

Paul
 
Weelawser said:
Nice job Ladderman and excellent pics.
I like the idea of doing them myself, invaluable info from every one of you will let you know which way I go.
Thanks all,

Paul
good look & I hope it all goes well for you :thumbsup:
 
kis said:
Ladderman said:
If you do go for brass bushes they can be quite a pain to get all the way in. If you use a G clamp like I did make sure they are seated straight because being made out of brass you can easily damage them. Make sure you apply plenty of geese then wipe the excess off when fitted.

How you finding the brass bushes? These are primarily for wear? Or do they increase brake performance too?
I haven't had my 330 brakes long enough to comment on wear, but they work better than my old ones :)
i can’ t give an definitive answer yet cos I’ve only been out for one test drive and the pedal felt soft. I need to flush again to get the rest of the air out. When I pumped the pedal a couple of time there was a vast improvement in stopping compared to my old set up.
 
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