2004 BMW Z4

N

Noah24

Member
Help!! I have had a 2004 z4 2.2i with 83,000 for about two months and have spent a small fortune to get engine light to go off but it keeps coming on. Okay changed spark plugs, rocker cover, engine oil gasket, the big air intake pipe that comes of mag sensor, three little pipes at rear of engine they are rubber blank caps. New disa valve fitted new ccv valve fitted and associated pipes. Says it’s running lean in banks one and two. No loss in performance just so frustrating.
Oh changed petrol filler cap to a new bmw one. please help at my wits end........
 
So what codes is it setting, maybe a clue to whats gone wrong, get it on a code reader and report back here what you find.
A smoke test may be the answer to finding any air leaks, recently dealt with another members 2.2 that had fuel trims at +20%due to unmetered air getting in. Sourced the leak to cracks in the plastic cam cover, it had gone brittle with heat/age and developed a crack round no4 plug well. Smokle test sourced the leak, cure was to replace the cam cover with a good used replacement.
 
Noah24 said:
Help!! I have had a 2004 z4 2.2i with 83,000 for about two months and have spent a small fortune to get engine light to go off but it keeps coming on. Okay changed spark plugs, rocker cover, engine oil gasket, the big air intake pipe that comes of mag sensor, three little pipes at rear of engine they are rubber blank caps. New disa valve fitted new ccv valve fitted and associated pipes. Says it’s running lean in banks one and two. No loss in performance just so frustrating.
Oh changed petrol filler cap to a new bmw one. please help at my wits end........
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Was the “big air intake pipe” you changed the one which clamps onto the throttle body? That part has a small bifurcated pipe which is well know for splitting & triggering lean codes.
Rob
 
When took it to independent bmw specialist they said faulty ccv and some
P codes.Was using a bit of oil hence oil filter housing gasket and new rocker cover gasket.No smoke when running from exhaust And runs sweet. The light only comes on after 150 ish miles of being cleared when car is at running temperature... So frustrating and spent a small fortune. Really getting me down.....yes the big pipe that has a small pipe coming of it.
 
Will take it to bmw specialist in the morning and get specific codes. So frustrated changed everything that you would associate with these problems. I wonder after a diagnostic it takes around 150 mile for eml to come back on. I m thinking maybe something is heating up and a crack etc opening up but would of picked up on smoke test. Then the garage who said out it through smoke test I don’t think they even did one.
 
Will take it to bmw specialist in the morning and get specific codes. So frustrated changed everything that you would associate with these problems. I wonder after a diagnostic it takes around 150 mile for eml to come back on. I m thinking maybe something is heating up and a crack etc opening up but would of picked up on smoke test. Then the garage who said out it through smoke test I don’t think they even did one.
 
You should be able to find someone local on here:- https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=97818
 
Need to get the codes cleared, drive it then see what codes come back.

Get the codes from whoever reads them.
 
Is it the actual EML or the yellow engine symbol light your having problems with? If it is the engine symbol light then that is just emissions.

Simplest way is just buy a cheap code reader & you can read the codes then delete them. Then give the zed a good blast taking it up the rev range. In my experience this will keep that light at bay. These motors need to be thrashed regularly to "keep them clear" especially the lambda sensors.

If it is the actual EML then that is a more specialist jobby.

Cheers, tug :thumbsup:
 
Noah24 said:
Trust me I have given the car a good thrash.
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Go through the history, check if it's had any new sensors/senders, then check if they were genuine BMW or OEM units. I bore myself with this statement, but, so many problems are caused by cheap OEM sensors/senders that are NOT the same quality as OEM. Granted, sometimes people save money, but I've never had a genuine sensor with a fault; I've had plenty of cheap OEM sensors with faults, on my Z4 and other cars I own. False economy almost every time.
 
Can’t find anything on service history if sensors have been changed.. would it be money well spent replacing the lambda sensors?
 
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