2003 Z4 - won't start - may be bad key

[ssargeulb]

My 2003 Z4 suddenly decided that it didn't want to start. It was running perfectly, there were no check engine lights, it just cranked without firing. With a shot of starting fluid it fired up so I assumed it was the fuel pump however after replacing the pump and filter / regulator it still will not fire (except with starting fluid).

I gave in and bought a scanner. I ran the codes and found:
P0141 - HO2S (Bank 1 / Sensor 2) malfunction
P2401 - Evaporative emission system leak Detection pump control circuit low
P2419 - Evaporative emission system switching valve control circuit
P1430 - Diagnostic module tank leakage heater too low
P2127 - Throttle / pedal position sensor / switch "E" circuit low input
P1603 - Control module self test, torque monitoring
P1625 - Pedal position sensor potentiometer supply channel 2 electrical

After searching these (on google) I don't know that any of these would prevent the engine from starting.

Now I'm wondering (based on something that I read) if it could be the key itself. I read that the key could need to be re-synced which is done by inserting the key into the ignition, turning it to position 2, removing the key, (within 5 seconds) hold the unlock button while pressing the lock button 3 times. The door should lock, unlock and re-lock indicating success.

I did that however the locks did not function at all. Maybe worth noting that the lock /unlock buttons were not working properly for the last month that the car was running.

Does anyone have any insight on either the codes or the key possibly being the issue?

 

[srhutch]

With the key in position 2 are all the ignition lights on?

If not it might be the ignition switch. When this happens it will turn over but not fire.

 

[ssargeulb]

Everything is absolutely normal with the dash lights, it cranks perfectly and will fire with starting fluid. " I read in a forum" (therefore it must be true), the anti theft device within the key / ignition switch will prevent the engine from starting. I read that iusing the incorrect or failed key will not allow the fuel pump to engage and I read elsewhere that it would preve nt the engine from cranking at all.
I'm at a loss. I was hoping that someone could identify which of the codes may indicate the problem or share their knowledge of the key thing.

 

[simonlpearce]

Are you seeing 12v at the pump? How have you confirmed this to be working? The pump itself may be fine but if it doesn't get power then you wont get any fuel.

Have you got/tried a spare key?

 

[ssargeulb]

Simonlpearce,
I did not check the voltage at the pump and to do so know would require me to drop the exhaust, remove multiple guards etc.. in order to access the connector to the filter / regulator and if that checks out I would need to drain the tank again to check the connection between that and the pump (inside of the tank). In hind sight I should have and it would appear as though I will need to do that now.

Regarding the key: I bought the car used and there was only one key.

Before I go through the dismantling in order to check the voltage (at the pump) I thought it worthwhile to ask if the codes or the key question was worth pursuing.
Any thoughts on that?

 

[Fastatv]

The link below was found on a E85/86 forum however, the codes are for an E46. They might be the same but I'm not sure. I had saved the link for my possible future use. Have you checked the fuses for the fuel pump? Do you hear the fuel pump turn on? Have you tryed clearing the codes to see if it might start?
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=303141

 

[simonlpearce]

What about testing the output from the fuel pump fuse/relay on startup rather than having to dismantle the car to get to the pump itself. Theoretically the if you are seeing power here then unless there is a break in the wire to the pump it should give you the same answer.

I'm not auto electrician but the logic seems sound to me, and its very rare that wires themselves are the problem.

 

[ssargeulb]

I believe that I properly checked everything mentioned here as well as many others and frankly, I gave up. I gave in and sent it to a shop with the appropriate equipment and mechanics. It's only been there for a day but all they can tell me is that the codes that I got have nothing to do with not starting and there are additional codes coming up on their scanner. They're thinking there's a "communication problem" somewhere and should be able to pin it down on Monday.
I'll post the solution as soon as I have it.

 

[richiez4]

If the battery in the key goes. Will this effect the transponder. .I maybe going down the wrong path all together but have u tried a new battery in your key. Might be worth a try

 

[srhutch]

If the battery in the key goes. Will this effect the transponder. .I maybe going down the wrong path all together but have u tried a new battery in your key. Might be worth a try

From memory the transponder in our keys are a tiny separate unit that are not batter powered.

 

[richiez4]

If the battery in the key goes. Will this effect the transponder. .I maybe going down the wrong path all together but have u tried a new battery in your key. Might be worth a try

From memory the transponder in our keys are a tiny separate unit that are not batter powered.

I wasn't sure. Just with him saying it wasn't opening or closing the doors for a while..I was just trying to think of the simple things that can sometimes be missed...

 

[ssargeulb]

It turned out to be a ground wire that was a matter of of previous BMW recall. The recall had the dealerships add a resistor to the ground wire located in the battery compartment. The wire was seperated just enough that it was intermitent. When I checked grounds I may have jiggled it enough to make contact because it proved out but must have seperated again.
A young genius at Montgomery Auto in Rising Sun, Md found the problem, fixed and all for a whopping 139.00 including towing.
You live and you learn I guess.

 

[maxman]

It turned out to be a ground wire that was a matter of of previous BMW recall. The recall had the dealerships add a resistor to the ground wire located in the battery compartment. The wire was seperated just enough that it was intermitent. When I checked grounds I may have jiggled it enough to make contact because it proved out but must have seperated again.
A young genius at Montgomery Auto in Rising Sun, Md found the problem, fixed and all for a whopping 139.00 including towing.
You live and you learn I guess.

Great news,was the poor earth from the fuel pump control unit.