2003 z4 replaced fuel pump - wont start

Yes the dash lights come on normally and as mentioned previously the engine will start immediately with a shot of starting fluid.
 
Below is a post subsequent to this thread however it has yet to receive a reply. I pasted it here hoping that someone may have some insight....


I have been going through way too much trial and error trying to resolve what I still believe to be a fuel pump issue. I have repalced the pump, filter / regulator and checked the fuses and relay for continuity. When I said I checked the fuses and relay I mean that I removed them and checked the prongs ( on the fuse and relay ) for continuity. They checked out fine.
It was suggested that I try to jump the relay because even though the part checks out it may still be faulty. After researching a bit I found the following:

Jumper Tests –
With both relays (Main and Fuel Pump) out of their socket…
Insert jumper wire between Pin 30 and Pin 87 into the Fuel Pump Relay socket – you should have power at the fuel pump.
Insert jumper wire between Pin 30 and Pin 87 into both relay sockets (both 87’s on the main relay) - you should have power at the fuel pump AND car should start.


When I went to jump the relay pins 30 and 87 I found that the relay block does not have a connector in the "87" location even though the relay itself does.

I checked the wires leading to the relay block and there are 4 however the relay has 5 pins.

Does anyone know if this is correct?
 
I think you're looking too deep, if the car ran ok before this latest episode then your relay pins/wiring must be ok.
It sounds as though you could have replaced the fuel pump in error & the problem is actually elsewhere as replacing the pump hasn't fixed it.
Regards
 
Smartbear said:
I think you're looking too deep, if the car ran ok before this latest episode then your relay pins/wiring must be ok.
It sounds as though you could have replaced the fuel pump in error & the problem is actually elsewhere as replacing the pump hasn't fixed it.
Regards
Click to expand...

I agree with Smartbear, just read you the thread and seems you just assumed it was the fuel pump and you are now fixated on it being a fuel pump/fuel related issue. Rather than the fuel is being deliberately cut by the car ECU. I would get the car scanned to see if there are any codes stored. Even if there are no codes, any decent garage with good diagnostic equipment will be able to "see" what various sensors are doing when you go to crank it etc and diagnose if a sensor isn't behaving as it should.

I realize you probably don't want to spend the money, but you have already invested in a fuel pump, probably unnecessarily and with out getting a proper diagnosis you could waste even more money than you would getting it properly looked at, chasing your tail replacing parts.
 
Had this on an old car of mine turned out to be the immobiliser, was trigger after chaning the fuel pump.
 
As i said before go and buy a cheap multimeter from maplin and get someone to start the car whilst you check the voltage at the pump. If you see no voltage then you have your answer, something else is stopping it priming and firing.

And i still think its probably the cam or crank position sensor.
 
No fool like an old fool. I figured out some time ago that the fuel pump and filter were not the problem but I choose to look on the bright side and figure that at least I know I'll be good for a few years in that department now.

I ran the codes and found:
P0141 - HO2S (Bank 1 / Sensor 2) malfunction
P2401 - Evaporative emission system leak Detection pump control circuit low
P2419 - Evaporative emission system switching valve control circuit
P1430 - Diagnostic module tank leakage heater too low
P2127 - Throttle / pedal position sensor / switch "E" circuit low input
P1603 - Control module self test, torque monitoring
P1625 - Pedal position sensor potentiometer supply channel 2 electrical

After searching these (on google) I don't know that any of these would prevent the engine from starting. Any thoughts?
 
there is some electrical harnessing in the boot area that may be the problem ( i had similar). basically there is a bunch of wiring that includes a few blocks related to the fuel pump. One of the wires may have become disconnected and even though every individual part is the system is working the fuel wont get through to the front end. In my case a snap together block has somehow worked its way loose and once clicked together the car started first time, and every time since. Its was my local indy who found this by pulling everything apart from the front to the back of the car. He said he didnt even know what the block was for or how the hell it had pulled itself apart but that was it. The only fly in the ointment was that he said he got to it by taking off the wheel lining from the outside ( so it might not be the same one as in the picture below)

the picture here shows roughly where i am talking about for the interior block
http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=55463
 
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