2003. 2.5 M54B25 oil problem again

[zriha]

This is the X8R kit I used. It includes just about everything to complete the job including VANOS seals and new bearings/rattle washers

Thanks, mate, I see there is a valve gasket also here, I just did that. Regarding the job, I am reasonably confident, but as I see instruction, I will be more confident to give that to the mechanic. And also give him your tips!

 

[Smartbear]

You're getting there

Thanks mate, well, as I said, maybe (on reading other thread), colb said: Faulty Maf, not registering the correct amount of air passing into the throttle body, if its over reporting the ECU will see this as a lean mixture much the same as extra air from holes or splits as in No.1.

And maybe now everything will settle with OEM air filter, as MAF will register the

A worn out vanos will reduce the low end torque of the engine but i can’t see how it could lead to oil consumption issues. Have you got a link which details this?

correct amount of air (with high flow Pipercross the measurements were bad maybe).

I can't find the link now, but some US forum about M54B25 engines. Also, here are the common two fixes - https://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=45716

Has anyone tried 02Pilot Mod ?

Also,

You're getting there

you did the Vanos yourself? Is this what I need? https://www.ebay.de/itm/Premium-Reparatur-Satz-Vanos-fur-BMW-Doppelvanos-Dichtsatz-M54-M52-TU-E46-E60-X5/192663021249

How did you do it? Is it manageable without the garage?

Thanks!

Plenty of info in that link about faulty ccv systems but nothing about the vanos causing oil burning problems, i don’t think it’s possible.
Rob

 

[zriha]

Plenty of info in that link about faulty ccv systems but nothing about the vanos causing oil burning problems, i don’t think it’s possible.
Rob

I agree with you, sorry, still learning about this engine. I didn't have these problems when I drove Mazda, now, I am just getting familiar with terms like CCV and Vanos.

The most major fault of Mazda's Miata 1.8 engine was the faulty ignition coil, and that's it. This car, well, if it isn't so pretty, I would dispose of it immediately. I feel like I am having Alfa Romeo (and I never had one..but BMW as they say, is German Alfa Romeo)

 

[Mike6]

Do you know what oil your mechanic used. If he put in something like 0/30 then at your mileage thats far too thin. Think of '0' as being like water when hot and its nor surprising it will be getting through oil. I would suggest something like 10/40 might curb the cars appetite for oil.

 

[Smartbear]

Do you know what oil your mechanic used. If he put in something like 0/30 then at your mileage thats far too thin. Think of '0' as being like water when hot and its nor surprising it will be getting through oil. I would suggest something like 10/40 might curb the cars appetite for oil.

With a multi grade oil the first number is the viscosity from cold, so a 0/30 will behave like a zero weight from a cold start & a 30 weight at full operating temps
Rob

 

[Haro]

Do you know what oil your mechanic used. If he put in something like 0/30 then at your mileage thats far too thin. Think of '0' as being like water when hot and its nor surprising it will be getting through oil. I would suggest something like 10/40 might curb the cars appetite for oil.

With a multi grade oil the first number is the viscosity from cold, so a 0/30 will behave like a zero weight from a cold start & a 30 weight at full operating temps
Rob

Oil numbers are based on viscosity at ambient temperatures, w stands for winter not weight. 0w30 would flow from -35 to +35, add 5 and it goes up temperature wise the same, 5w30 would be -30 to +35. Add 5 to the top end and the same applies 0w40 -35 to + 40

 

[Smartbear]

Do you know what oil your mechanic used. If he put in something like 0/30 then at your mileage thats far too thin. Think of '0' as being like water when hot and its nor surprising it will be getting through oil. I would suggest something like 10/40 might curb the cars appetite for oil.

With a multi grade oil the first number is the viscosity from cold, so a 0/30 will behave like a zero weight from a cold start & a 30 weight at full operating temps
Rob

Oil numbers are based on viscosity at ambient temperatures, w stands for winter not weight. 0w30 would flow from -35 to +35, add 5 and it goes up temperature wise the same, 5w30 would be -30 to +35. Add 5 to the top end and the same applies 0w40 -35 to + 40

Thanks for agreeing with me
Rob

 

[zriha]

Do you know what oil your mechanic used. If he put in something like 0/30 then at your mileage thats far too thin. Think of '0' as being like water when hot and its nor surprising it will be getting through oil. I would suggest something like 10/40 might curb the cars appetite for oil.

No, it is the oil I provided - Shell Helix Ultra - BMW LL-01 SAE 5W40 .

 

[zriha]

Update: I changed the PCV Crankcase Vent Valve, part number: 11617501566 and there are no more speckles on the bumper, but I also cleaned the exhaust system and did over 1.000 km. I think this was some dirt in the system.

Now everything is ok!