2.0l Cracked Manifold Removal and Replacement

[colb]

Finally got around to sorting the cracked exhaust manifold on the 2.0l I bought a couple of months ago. Didn't hear it blowing when I viewed and test drove it but it had been out and about before the viewing. Post purchase I noticed the blow on cold starts but it went after the exhaust heated up. Couldn't see the crack but diagnosed it as cracked and started getting some parts and a replacement manifold that wasn't cracked. Spent my Sunday stripping it out after the under trays were removed. The exhaust downpipe joint studs and nuts were just the same nightmare to get out as I went through on my previous 2.5. Had to resort to the angle grinder with a cutting disc to slot the flanges to release the pressure on the splined studs and air hammer them out once their rusty nuts were also cut off. A couple of exhaust brackets unbolted and the rear section was pushed back out of the way only a short distance. Attention then to the top and all the copper manifold nuts were removed using a 11mm short and long socket. Had to remove the steering shaft which was easy to do, just unbolt top and bottom UJ joints, pull the bolts and the shaft drops down from the top and is easy to lift it off the bottom rack spline. Once that's out of the way the manifold can be pulled off the studs and lowered down and off the car. Fitting the replacement with new gaskets top and bottom and new copper nuts, Replaced the down pipe studs with stainless nuts and bolts.
All this done on my scissor lift but took me all day 10am to 8pm and have to finish off tomorrow, few more brackets and fit all the new exhaust sensors I am treating it to. The time consuming bit is those downpipe studs and nuts and the multitude of manifold nuts at the top.

 

[TIMMOS29]

Finally got around to sorting the cracked exhaust manifold on the 2.0l I bought a couple of months ago. Didn't hear it blowing when I viewed and test drove it but it had been out and about before the viewing. Post purchase I noticed the blow on cold starts but it went after the exhaust heated up. Couldn't see the crack but diagnosed it as cracked and started getting some parts and a replacement manifold that wasn't cracked. Spent my Sunday stripping it out after the under trays were removed. The exhaust downpipe joint studs and nuts were just the same nightmare to get out as I went through on my previous 2.5. Had to resort to the angle grinder with a cutting disc to slot the flanges to release the pressure on the splined studs and air hammer them out once their rusty nuts were also cut off. A couple of exhaust brackets unbolted and the rear section was pushed back out of the way only a short distance. Attention then to the top and all the copper manifold nuts were removed using a 11mm short and long socket. Had to remove the steering shaft which was easy to do, just unbolt top and bottom UJ joints, pull the bolts and the shaft drops down from the top and is easy to lift it off the bottom rack spline. Once that's out of the way the manifold can be pulled off the studs and lowered down and off the car. Fitting the replacement with new gaskets top and bottom and new copper nuts, Replaced the down pipe studs with stainless nuts and bolts.
All this done on my scissor lift but took me all day 10am to 8pm and have to finish off tomorrow, few more brackets and fit all the new exhaust sensors I am treating it to. The time consuming bit is those downpipe studs and nuts and the multitude of manifold nuts at the top.

Did you have a problem getting access to the manfold bolts? and did you weld the cracks uo yourself? thanks

 

[colb]

You need to remove the alloy heat shield on the exhaust side of the engine bay to give enough room to access the manifold nuts, the heat shield/drip tray along the top of the manifold is held on by a couple of the manifold nuts so that comes off when the nuts are removed. Some of them you have to get on by feel, once you get the socket on them they do come off but are quite tight to crack off. I bought a set of new nuts. I didn't have to replace any of the studs but one did come out with its nut. I also found one stud had been replaced by a bolt so someone had been in there before me. Once all the nuts are off the manifold can be dropped down below the car. The biggest issue is of course the downpipe joint studs and nuts that will be corroded and immovable. I grind a slot in the flange that releases the pressure on the splined stud end then hammer them out. Beware of hammering them with the exhaust sensors still in place you will kill the sensor, they don't like being shocked I replace the downpipe flange studs with stainless bolts and flange nuts when putting it back together.
Not yet had my cracked manifold welded yet but it needs Tig welding by someone who is a good welder.