16k miles in a 35is

Smartbear said:
Z4M-2006 said:
Kugaman1 said:
Id love a 35is, luckily, prob can afford to trade up into one also.

However, Im just too worried about big bills down the road....

I adore my 20i, but always hold my breath when raising/lowering the roof.....its not given me any issues but nevertheless, I dont know quite what I will do if it does.

The problems is this.....up here in NE Scotland, there aren't any independents that know anything about these roofs....my only choice would be to get it to John Clark BMW in Aberdeen, and they aint cheap for anything.....and theyre pretty bloody useless at fixing things......had a 120d Msport off them years ago........as part of the deal they put on 4 new tyres.....failed to actually balance any of them!!! Then bought an m135i brand new.....despite my insisting it came with Michelin tyres (an option) they decided runflats would be better for me and altered the order! I was furious so they swapped the tyres for Michelin pilot supersports as originally requested....and then promptly put all 4 tyres on backwards.... I kid you not.

Thats what holds me back from taking the plunge into a 35is......the concerns of possible roof, adaptive suspension, injector, coil pack, HPFP issues......all of which would be pricey fixes with no independents or alternative specialists nearby.

If I lived further south with a wider choice of indys, I would have one tomorrow, they look to be epic cars!
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They can all happen on your 2.0.... apart from the suspension,which is no more complicated than standard suspension if it were to need changing.
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I think it’s the cost of the adaptive suspension that’s the issue :o
I get that the 20i can suffer from the maladies mentioned above, but it seems to be the n54 cars that repeatedly have these issues-I don’t recall reading of hpfp/injector problems on the forum? Were these parts changed for the 20i I wonder?
Rob
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If you think EDC is expensive on a BMW then check out DRC prices for Audi...

Almost laughable..

If the EDC does go wrong,then either a set of coilovers if you want to mod,or replacement legs are around £250 from the EU on import... Not the end of the world.
 
Busterboo said:
step_change said:
You always used standard unleaded in it Busterboo aka 95RON as per your first post? You never used super?
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Just what it says on the car and in the handbook. 95RON.
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Isn’t that a minimum requirement? I’ve been advised that super unleaded is better for max power production and internal engine cleanliness :wink:
Rob
 
Smartbear said:
Busterboo said:
step_change said:
You always used standard unleaded in it Busterboo aka 95RON as per your first post? You never used super?
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Just what it says on the car and in the handbook. 95RON.
Click to expand...

Isn’t that a minimum requirement? I’ve been advised that super unleaded is better for max power production and internal engine cleanliness :wink:
Rob
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With the factory map, on my car (MY15), 95RON to get you factory figures power figures, if you're going for low quality >97RON fuels you'll see little to no advantage in terms of engine output but the engine can deal with heat soak better (not rolling road verified but seen by on-road data logging). However, with higher quality super unleaded there's less roll off of boost levels above 5500rpm meaning you get an extra +30bhp (rolling road verified on the same day).

It's worth knowing that in a real pinch the ECU can just about deal with 92RON but you'll be noticeably down on low rpm punch & it only gets worse the higher the rpm. I'd only put a splash in to get me to another petrol station.
 
techathy said:
Smartbear said:
Busterboo said:
Just what it says on the car and in the handbook. 95RON.
Click to expand...

Isn’t that a minimum requirement? I’ve been advised that super unleaded is better for max power production and internal engine cleanliness :wink:
Rob
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With the factory map, on my car (MY15), 95RON to get you factory figures power figures, if you're going for low quality >97RON fuels you'll see little to no advantage in terms of engine output but the engine can deal with heat soak better (not rolling road verified by seen by on-road data logging). However, with higher quality super unleaded there's less roll off of boost levels above 5500rpm meaning you get an extra +30bhp (rolling road verified on the same day).

It's worth knowing that in a real pinch the ECU can just about deal with 92RON but you'll be noticeably down on low rpm punch & it only gets worse the higher the rpm. I'd only put a splash in to get me to another petrol station.
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thats interesting Information!
 
No, not quite.
Low quality super unleaded = better performance than 95RON under heat soak conditions
High quality super unleaded = better performance then 95RON under heat soak conditions with +30bhp more power peek, by holding on to boost for longer, under non-heatsoak conditions.
 
I know this is one of those subjects that gets people's passions roused but the BMW Z4 E89 owners manual says quite clearly that RON 95 is required. Not sure there is a need to pay extra £7ish per tankful. That said being a pride and joy and in the context of car ownership costs, that is not really a lot in the great scheme of things.
 
Pardon my ignorance but WTF are "heat soak" conditions? And how do they relate to me driving my 35is at 80mph?
 
Just think how hot your engine bay gets..

The cylinder head temp.

Intake pipe temps..

This all heat soaks the inlet and the inlet temp sensor see the temp go up,the DME reacts to that by retarding basic ignition and valve timing.By retarding the timing values,the engine power reduces...
The DME also takes values from the knock sensors.The knock sensor will detect "noise" in the cylinders under combustion,mainly detonation noise.. Better fuel gives less combustable noise,so the DME can increase the timing giving better power.

Use Tesco Momentum and its about £3.50 difference over a tank full...

Why wouldnt you....?
 
Z4M-2006 said:
Just think how hot your engine bay gets..

The cylinder head temp.

Intake pipe temps..

This all heat soaks the inlet and the inlet temp sensor see the temp go up,the DME reacts to that by retarding basic ignition and valve timing.By retarding the timing values,the engine power reduces...
The DME also takes values from the knock sensors.The knock sensor will detect "noise" in the cylinders under combustion,mainly detonation noise.. Better fuel gives less combustable noise,so the DME can increase the timing giving better power.

Use Tesco Momentum and its about £3.50 difference over a tank full...

Why wouldnt you....?
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Plus it cleans your engine better than the miser fuel :wink:
Rob
 
Z4M-2006 said:
Just think how hot your engine bay gets..

The cylinder head temp.

Intake pipe temps..

This all heat soaks the inlet and the inlet temp sensor see the temp go up,the DME reacts to that by retarding basic ignition and valve timing.By retarding the timing values,the engine power reduces...
The DME also takes values from the knock sensors.The knock sensor will detect "noise" in the cylinders under combustion,mainly detonation noise.. Better fuel gives less combustable noise,so the DME can increase the timing giving better power.

Use Tesco Momentum and its about £3.50 difference over a tank full...

Why wouldnt you....?
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Nope still don't understand any of that. :? Just think I will drive the thing and remain ignorant but happy.
 
Smartbear said:
Plus it cleans your engine better than the miser fuel :wink:
Rob
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Hmm..... I know Shell/Bp 98 ron fuels have good cleaning properties in them.....does momentum have anything over regular Tesco fuel?

I’m not so sure....
 
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