108 wheel refurb without polished rim?
- Thread starter junglist
- Start date
this is how i want to do mine (if i ever get the cash together) from what ive been told once they are split and fixed (scuffs/buckling/etc) then you can do what you like.
nice colour choice there. i would like to get mine done where there is only a subtle change in the silver. major 2 tone just makes them look dated to me and reminds me of naff 80's yank tanks for some reason (no idea why). i don't think the 108 lends itself well to the 2 colours you see on some cars like the yaris/golf now as the wheels dont have lots of facets on them and are quite smooth and plane if you see what i mean.
anyway at the end of the day its your choice go for it.
nice colour choice there. i would like to get mine done where there is only a subtle change in the silver. major 2 tone just makes them look dated to me and reminds me of naff 80's yank tanks for some reason (no idea why). i don't think the 108 lends itself well to the 2 colours you see on some cars like the yaris/golf now as the wheels dont have lots of facets on them and are quite smooth and plane if you see what i mean.
anyway at the end of the day its your choice go for it.
I've just had that done to my wheels, skipped the diamond cut, 2 slightly different greys [darker on the rim] by http://www.reinventingthewheel.co.uk/ who are in Tewkesbury, Gloucestershire, GL20 8TD, so local to me.
Not cheap, 4 wheels and hubs after VAT was over £620, but you pay for what you get, and they now look great
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Well three of them still do as I managed to kerb the NSF after only four days :x , and in the worst possible place, just on a star, so they will have to dis-assemble it to fix @ another £55.00 + VAT :thumbsdown:
Not cheap, 4 wheels and hubs after VAT was over £620, but you pay for what you get, and they now look great
.Well three of them still do as I managed to kerb the NSF after only four days :x , and in the worst possible place, just on a star, so they will have to dis-assemble it to fix @ another £55.00 + VAT :thumbsdown:
I do wonder about 108s and the likelihood of them corroding again even without the polished / lacquered rim. To me the split in the rim and the bolt holes seem to be perfectly designed to corrode irrespective of finish. If you use the wheels all year then all kinds of crap will get in the gaps and behind the bolts - unless you clean them very, very well every week then I think they are destined to bubble and corrode again at some point. Powder coating or painting will stop it happening quickly, but I bet it happens again in the exact same places again in the future. Just a theory, no empirical proof whatsoever - though I only use mine in summer and am anal about getting all the crap out all the crannies... They are OEM, but after two years there are now the first signs of them going so I could be joining the Refurb Club next year 
1066 Country
I just picked up my freshly powder coated 108's, I split the rims myself and got both inner and outer powder coated in Light Anthracite, I think they look great and should go nicely with my Blue Coupe.
However two of the rims were very tight with their inners during stripping, and due to the powder coating they will not mate very easily not sure what to do, really do not want to sand the lip on the star down but am also worried about using brute force to force the inner into the outer.....
In terms of cleaning the bolts, anyone recommend a quick and cheap way of doing it? will a soak in white spirits help to clean them up?
In terms of corrosion protection at the maiting faces, as they are both powder coated I was going to just put some poor bouys wheel wax (un buffed) and assemble, with a small bead of clear silicone at the inner join.
In Terms of the 20 bolts per wheel, I was considering putting a small amount of grease or something under their heads (not on the threads) to create a little seal to prevent water sitting.
Any advice would be appreciated... just waiting for my tap set to arrive so I can clean the threads out, though I need to be careful not to damage the threads.
However two of the rims were very tight with their inners during stripping, and due to the powder coating they will not mate very easily not sure what to do, really do not want to sand the lip on the star down but am also worried about using brute force to force the inner into the outer.....
In terms of cleaning the bolts, anyone recommend a quick and cheap way of doing it? will a soak in white spirits help to clean them up?
In terms of corrosion protection at the maiting faces, as they are both powder coated I was going to just put some poor bouys wheel wax (un buffed) and assemble, with a small bead of clear silicone at the inner join.
In Terms of the 20 bolts per wheel, I was considering putting a small amount of grease or something under their heads (not on the threads) to create a little seal to prevent water sitting.
Any advice would be appreciated... just waiting for my tap set to arrive so I can clean the threads out, though I need to be careful not to damage the threads.
I split and DIY painted a spare set as winter wheels last year.
Due to the layers of pain i added one of my stars was quite tight getting on again... however i applied a bit of pressure and it sat and once bolted you cant tell.
I personally wouldnt sand the lip where the star sits down.
I didnt greese my bolts.. added a bit of superglue and then tightened them as tight as i could :roll:
Lasted a whole winter with quite severe snow/ salt without any issues.
Due to the layers of pain i added one of my stars was quite tight getting on again... however i applied a bit of pressure and it sat and once bolted you cant tell.
I personally wouldnt sand the lip where the star sits down.
I didnt greese my bolts.. added a bit of superglue and then tightened them as tight as i could :roll:
Lasted a whole winter with quite severe snow/ salt without any issues.
aquazi said:
that's interesting to hear. how did you get all the bolts out without screwing them?
could some one annotate the image of the drum above or draw a diagram where they applied the silicon?
thinking about the grease comment could you not use a dab of sealant? i thought a bolt like these only really did the gripping on the bottom sets of threads?
