108 wheel corrosion issue

The wheel corrosion problem is caused at the join between the two seperate parts of the inner rim - where the outer sextion bolts to the main wheel. As the car moves so the joint flexes and allows an ingress of water which starts the corrosive process. Once started its difficult to stop even by cleaning. The best solution is to remove the wheels when new and thoroughly clean . no waxing at this stage. When fully dry clean the inner rim at its joint with the outer section with an alcoohol based cleaner (medical cleaning pads are great and you can get them from most chemists). Allow this to completely dry. Now seal the joint with a thin bead of clear silicone - harware shops sell this. Allow this to dry overnight. You cannot see this once the wheel is back on the car. Prior to refitting a good waxing of the inner rim will aid overall protection but be careful not to disturb the new silicone seal. The seal will darken over time with brakedust etc but again is almost impossible to see. Be careful when cleaning not to disturb or rupture the seal. 4 years on my car and no corrosion (having had one set replaced...!). Hope this helps. :D
 
Tasty said:
After having my 3.0 Z4 for 6 years this month. I am now on my third set of 5 spoke alloys. I had the first four all replaced FOC because of bubbling on the alloys which meant that there was moisture in the atmosphere when they were lacquered, this occured just before owning the vehicle for 3 years and so was within warranty.

I then took the car back after 5 years when the same thing was happening. As I had kurbed the front off side they offered to replace them for me but would only provide 70% of the cost. I believe I had to pay £250 towards the three being replaced although I disputed this but they wouldn't provide any more than 70%.

One of the main problems with the split rims is that the one part is laquered straight on the base metal and not painted first which makes them more vulnerable to bubbling. Apparently some wheel refurb specialists will not work with these alloys as the bolts shear when attempting to take them apart.

At present I would expect to have to replace the alloys again at my own cost in two years time.

To be quite honest I am getting hacked off with the build quality of my Z4, in the past 3 months I have had a lock stop working which meant I paid £400 to get into the car (remove seats etc), alloys, air adjusted unit valve broke £200 to replace and now I have a roof that will not work and is set down at the moment. I hope it doesn't rain tonight!!!

Your hacked off
Tasty :headbang:
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this is why I changed my wheel design from the 108s - just too many on going problems for me and I will never have split rims ever again.

Love my 203s now though :D
 
AlanJ said:
The wheel corrosion problem is caused at the join between the two seperate parts of the inner rim - where the outer sextion bolts to the main wheel. As the car moves so the joint flexes and allows an ingress of water which starts the corrosive process. Once started its difficult to stop even by cleaning. The best solution is to remove the wheels when new and thoroughly clean . no waxing at this stage. When fully dry clean the inner rim at its joint with the outer section with an alcoohol based cleaner (medical cleaning pads are great and you can get them from most chemists). Allow this to completely dry. Now seal the joint with a thin bead of clear silicone - harware shops sell this. Allow this to dry overnight. You cannot see this once the wheel is back on the car. Prior to refitting a good waxing of the inner rim will aid overall protection but be careful not to disturb the new silicone seal. The seal will darken over time with brakedust etc but again is almost impossible to see. Be careful when cleaning not to disturb or rupture the seal. 4 years on my car and no corrosion (having had one set replaced...!). Hope this helps. :D
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Both me and CJ10Jeeper discussed doing this, how many miles have you done since and in what conditions, my Z4 is a DD as was over 2 years old when have mine changed although the corrosion wanst noticable without removing the wheels, to be honest any silicone over the top would have just hidden it as it really wasnt bad.

If I knew this would really help I would do it in a shot.
 
gannet said:
Tasty said:
After having my 3.0 Z4 for 6 years this month. I am now on my third set of 5 spoke alloys. I had the first four all replaced FOC because of bubbling on the alloys which meant that there was moisture in the atmosphere when they were lacquered, this occured just before owning the vehicle for 3 years and so was within warranty.

I then took the car back after 5 years when the same thing was happening. As I had kurbed the front off side they offered to replace them for me but would only provide 70% of the cost. I believe I had to pay £250 towards the three being replaced although I disputed this but they wouldn't provide any more than 70%.

One of the main problems with the split rims is that the one part is laquered straight on the base metal and not painted first which makes them more vulnerable to bubbling. Apparently some wheel refurb specialists will not work with these alloys as the bolts shear when attempting to take them apart.

At present I would expect to have to replace the alloys again at my own cost in two years time.

To be quite honest I am getting hacked off with the build quality of my Z4, in the past 3 months I have had a lock stop working which meant I paid £400 to get into the car (remove seats etc), alloys, air adjusted unit valve broke £200 to replace and now I have a roof that will not work and is set down at the moment. I hope it doesn't rain tonight!!!

Your hacked off
Tasty :headbang:
Click to expand...

this is why I changed my wheel design from the 108s - just too many on going problems for me and I will never have split rims ever again.

Love my 203s now though :D
Click to expand...

Good idea.

But it's not really the split that is the problem, it's the finish.

EVERY single machined/lacquered finish I have seen is bubbling by 2-3 years old, even if the damage is tiny little speck damage to the lacquer. ANY moisture under it and it's good bye to the finish :(


Fully painted wheels are the future... for now :D

107's here I come :D

Dave
 
Since sealing my wheels with silicone I have done 30k miles and in all UK conditions. I live in Yorkshire so rain and salty roads in the winter are the norm. My fix is not the answer - BMW should have identified and rectified this problem when it first arose.
 
Last year I had the 2 rear 108's replaced because of corrosion. Cleaning the car yesterday and I noticed the fronts have started now!! Off to the dealers in a min to see if they will replace those!! :roll:
 
Well, back from the dealers and they are replacing both front 108's. At least I will have a matching set now (I hope!). :thumbsup: Booked in for next Thursday. :) Well done Rybrook BMW! :thumbsup:
 
Well, in brief, took the car into the dealers to have the front 108's replaced. Picked the car up and found they had fitted new polished rim wheels!! (I had the painted ones fitted last year on the rear so I stipulated to the dealer I wanted the painted ones ordered for the front so I would at least have a matching set this time!!). They are phoning BMW tomorrow!! The saga continues!! :roll:
 
Breaker said:
Well, in brief, took the car into the dealers to have the front 108's replaced. Picked the car up and found they had fitted new polished rim wheels!! (I had the painted ones fitted last year on the rear so I stipulated to the dealer I wanted the painted ones ordered for the front so I would at least have a matching set this time!!). They are phoning BMW tomorrow!! The saga continues!! :roll:
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Seems the clear/lacquered rims are having a revival :D , not good when you want four the same though
 
I am taking the wheels off this weekend to check to see how they are doing since replacment in June. I might give the clear silicone around the inner rim a go, not decided yet. If I detect any small stone chips to the clear lacquer I re seal the lacquer with clear nail varnish, A tip given to me by a wheel refurbisher.
 
Zedster said:
I am taking the wheels off this weekend to check to see how they are doing since replacment in June. I might give the clear silicone around the inner rim a go, not decided yet. If I detect any small stone chips to the clear lacquer I re seal the lacquer with clear nail varnish, A tip given to me by a wheel refurbisher.
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surely clear lacquer would be better than nail varnish?
 
Hi,

Just had all four of mine replaced by the dealer. Just booked the car in asking them to look at the corrosion on the inside. They told me that yes it was a problem and four new wheels were ordered.No arguements or trying to get away without replacing the rears that were not as bad as the fronts. Outside of the wheels were totally unmarked though.
 
Totally agree Srhutch, just suggesting a cheaper and IMHO just as good alternative, but as I stressed this is only used for slight nicks and chips where the lacquer has been compromised, obviously any larger areas that need attention then the proper lacquer should be used.
 
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