108 DIY Refurb

A

AndyMitton

Member
Hi all

I know there's a few threads on this, but I wanted to see if there's any other info / advice people have on refurbing 108s.

One of mine has fairly bad kerbing (will upload a photo) and the the other just generally corroded. Got the week off work next week so going to have a blast at it.

Done a fair old bit of reading up on this.

Nitro Mors (already got plenty)
wire brushes (if necessary)
sand paper up to 2500
masking tape
loctite
polishing mops and suitable polish

Was planning on stripping down with tyre on (seen this done a lot), sanding out kerbing, sanding, more sanding and polishing. I was going to go ahead with this on the lip and the inner wheel and not bother with laquer.

As for the centres, I was planning on just removing corrosion, good key and painting them original colour which I am led to believe is Titan Silver. Would someone mind confirming this please?

Any further advice to that already about here would be great please.

Looking forward to getting them sorted as they really are pretty offensive at the moment!
Cheers

Andy
 
Go ahead with the above if just for a quick cosmetic tidy up to put you on , otherwise enjoy your time off work doing something else & pay the £250/£350 to have them split & powdercoated properly :wink:
I did split & paint a set in my early Z days & yes they were acceptable , , , , from the top deck of the local bus as it drove past the car :P
In truth it was very time consuming & materials alone came to over £60
 
I'd suggest getting the beads broken at a tyre place so you can get round the edge of the rim properly. Not sure what else to recommend without seeing some detailed pics of the wheels.
 
Also check my thread for details on refurbing wheels especially dealing with corrosion. Any questions just ask :)
http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=62146&p=923258#p923258
 
Nitro Mors really struggles to take the lacquer off of the un-corroded parts of the 108 lip. I recommend getting the follow item as per MM's advice:

Machine monkey said:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/flexible-sanding-drum-6mm-spindle/10387#

Yeah its expensive for a lump of foam. But it really helped in fact its in my top 10 of tools......
Click to expand...

Oh and be real careful when you are breaking the thread lock on the bolts, I managed to do 3 wheels just fine, then I think I got complaisant with the 3rd and had to spend half a day drilling out a bolt that I f*ked up.
 
where did you get them done for 250 quid mr wilks? im coming in at £75 per wheel i i split and remove the tires but more like 100+ per wheel. they always start at 40 odd quid and then see 18" and it goes up, see split rim and it goes up and up a bit more

im not sure about leaving the tire on but i would look to split and then see if some where will dip/blast them for you if you want to do some of the work

how were you thinking about fixing the kerbing etc ive got some bad marks on my wheels that was caused by crap packaging in transit. ive read in the past about using metal filler something like p38 filler

i think ive basically decided its easier to look out for a decent set of 2nd hand ones or alternatives and cut your losses
 
domsz4 said:
where did you get them done for 250 quid mr wilks? im coming in at £75 per wheel i i split and remove the tires but more like 100+ per wheel. they always start at 40 odd quid and then see 18" and it goes up, see split rim and it goes up and up a bit more

im not sure about leaving the tire on but i would look to split and then see if some where will dip/blast them for you if you want to do some of the work

how were you thinking about fixing the kerbing etc ive got some bad marks on my wheels that was caused by crap packaging in transit. ive read in the past about using metal filler something like p38 filler

i think ive basically decided its easier to look out for a decent set of 2nd hand ones or alternatives and cut your losses
Click to expand...

Pm,d you dom :thumbsup:
 
Nitromorse really is no good at all. I found this stuff worked like Nitromorse used to
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CCoQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.flints.co.uk%2Facatalog%2FBlackfriars_Paint_and_Varnish_Remover.html&ei=Za0NU_65M4nX7AaPzYC4BQ&usg=AFQjCNE1Y61-46SHlI2C4ZCHblaM-glshg&bvm=bv.61965928,d.bGQ&cad=rja

Also like stlymch posted that sanding foam wheel is a good tool. It helped me no end when i did my wheels.
 
Cheers for all the replies guys, some useful info to take on board

Defo having a crack myself, done a fair bit of previous bits like this so I'm confident I can get them looking mint

As for the sanding wheel...looks good...any better than using flapper wheels?

Cheers

Andy
 
I would say yes it dose not remove the material as quick as the flap wheels i have used. Maybe it can fill in a step after the flap wheel :thumbsup:
 
You might be better off investing in having the wheel acid dipped professionally.

As per above with a poor success rate on my x5 wheels and nitromors I ended up getting the wheels refurbed professionally (and at £200 for dipping, repairing and powdercoating, it was excellent value)
 
so what is better? powder coating or painting?

my experience of powder coat is a little hit and miss, mostly where a small chip or place where I've drilled though the powder coat (i know wont happen on a wheel) causes a patch to simply flake off
 
These had been powder coated!
20130908_120810_zpsd24d9c38.jpg

but then again the ones in the last thread I posted were painted so they can be as bad. I think the main thing to concentrate on is making sure all the corrosion is gone and having a good etch primer on there.
 
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