Hello, just paid the deposit on a Z4.

I have done my fair share of relocations now (not a patch on the guru @Number5) and although I was resistant to the roof lifting route at first, I have to say I’ve come around to that being the best way:

Less force needed
Less risk to the fragile parts around the roof
Less personal injury- the bruises I used to get on my ribs were epic
 
Thanks for all the replies! My idea is to have the car and use it the first month with the manual roof. Then, I believe, I'll bring it to the famous Alan. Just out of curiosity, the guy that's selling the car said the roof motor would be moved by an Alan. I was wondering if it's just a coincidence or if BMW only certifies Alans to do this job.
 
fmbnd said:
Thanks for all the replies! My idea is to have the car and use it the first month with the manual roof. Then, I believe, I'll bring it to the famous Alan. Just out of curiosity, the guy that's selling the car said the roof motor would be moved by an Alan. I was wondering if it's just a coincidence or if BMW only certifies Alans to do this job.
Click to expand...
Alan? Alan?
 
Agree with the others, if you haven't relocated one before best left for Alan to do it, well worth the money to avoid breaking something else when trying to force the motor up and out of its location besides the messing about getting the parcel shelf out and back in. Alans method of lifting the roof on one side is the way to go. Added bonus is he has spares if needed.
 
enuff_zed said:
Oooh no! Don't use the pry bar method. So much chance of dislodging or breaking off the 'down' hall sensor.

When you realise that the plastic casing is secured to the LH hinge with a self-tapping screw, you will understand that 'all you need to do is snap the cable ties' is a hugely misleading and potentially costly error. You are actually having to break a 5mm square section plastic strip and then pull hard enough to get it out from under the screw head. If this lets go fast then the casing is propelled upwards into the hall sensor.

Admittedly I've done a few dozen now, but yesterday I did a complete relocation, from start to finish, in under an hour. That included letting my aircraft engineering OCD have its head with regard to the unstressed alignment of the hydraulic pipes, securing the motor in the boot and hiding it behind a piece of genuine carpet.

@Number5 showed me the best method to relocate it, which completely does away with any form of 'agricultural engineering'.

I would highly recommend that rather than follow the YouTube Yee-Haa approach, you visit Alan and get it done neatly and with zero risk of introducing other issues.
Click to expand...
I mean use the pry bar to open the black plastic housing... I found this is the fastest method to take out the motor, then all you have to do is pull hard on the lower plastic housing and it will brake off from the "bolt" that securing it. Hall effect sensor or any parts near that will not even be touched.
 
Let's see how it goes tomorrow. Otherwise might need to look for other cars. By the way, what do you think about 2003 3.0 automatic?
 
fmbnd said:
Let's see how it goes tomorrow. Otherwise might need to look for other cars. By the way, what do you think about 2003 3.0 automatic?
Click to expand...
Very nice. The sport button is a Jekyll and Hyde switch!! But definitely check the airbag light comes on with ignition then goes off. The modules are starting to die and are hard to come by so it's a common bodge to tape over the light.
 


This is the most widely used method.


Even if you used the top hydraulic method to brake the "bolt" from the top, you still have to manage to open the top plastic housing with pry bar. (I tried top hydaulics breaking bolt method and it didn't work, the bolt doesn't even move)

But still if you have money, pay for someone to do that, it's a pain in the ass job.
 
ivanchen1211 said:
I mean use the pry bar to open the black plastic housing... I found this is the fastest method to take out the motor, then all you have to do is pull hard on the lower plastic housing and it will brake off from the "bolt" that securing it. Hall effect sensor or any parts near that will not even be touched.
Click to expand...
By lifting the left side of the roof you can have the motor safely in your hand in 15 minutes.
Your method still leaves the hydraulic pipe routed underneath the casing until you rip that out.
We have previously agreed that your software knowledge outstrips mine, so please believe me when it comes to roof motor relocations.
 
ivanchen1211 said:


This is the most widely used method.


Even if you used the top hydraulic method to brake the "bolt" from the top, you still have to manage to open the top plastic housing with pry bar. (I tried top hydaulics breaking bolt method and it didn't work, the bolt doesn't even move)

But still if you have money, pay for someone to do that, it's a pain in the ass job.
Click to expand...

You're kind of missing the point here. If you gently remove the whole casing out through the side of the roof you can ease the casing apart with no force whatsoever.
Widely-used method does not mean the best. To me, it means reducing it to the lowest common denomintaor to 'grunts' with no mechanical sympathy.
 
fmbnd said:
Let's see how it goes tomorrow. Otherwise might need to look for other cars. By the way, what do you think about 2003 3.0 automatic?
Click to expand...
If you can, the 2006 or later facelift 3.0i with N52 engine is the best. You can upgrade the 3.0i to 3.0si with retrofitting the 3 stage manifold and simply flash 3.0si tune to boost 215hp to 265hp. But this setup only seems only being sold in US. In UK you can find N52 engine facelift 2006 and later 2.5i and upgrade to 2.5si with 3 stage manifold and flash. Will boost 174hp to 215hp. Plus the facelift model had steering control button and 6 speed automatic trans, also more advanced DSC system module.
 
ivanchen1211 said:
If you can, the 2006 or later facelift 3.0i with N52 engine is the best. You can upgrade the 3.0i to 3.0si with retrofitting the 3 stage manifold and simply flash 3.0si tune to boost 215hp to 265hp. But this setup only seems only being sold in US. In UK you can find N52 engine facelift 2006 and later 2.5i and upgrade to 2.5si with 3 stage manifold and flash. Will boost 174hp to 215hp. Plus the facelift model had steering control button and 6 speed automatic trans, also more advanced DSC system module.
Click to expand...
Just saw a 2003 at the Facebook marketplace, and the roof motor hasn't been moved. Alan? Alan?
 
Last edited:
enuff_zed said:
By lifting the left side of the roof you can have the motor safely in your hand in 15 minutes.
Your method still leaves the hydraulic pipe routed underneath the casing until you rip that out.
We have previously agreed that your software knowledge outstrips mine, so please believe me when it comes to roof motor relocations.
Click to expand...
Any chance there's a video that recorded your method? 15 mins to relocate the motor sounds fascinating.

I charge $1000 now to help other Z4 owner around my area to rebuild the hinge also relocating their motor, relocating sometimes will cost about an hour or more especially if someone elses had opened the motor casing previously and sealed the top with loads of tapes.
 
fmbnd said:
Let's see how it goes tomorrow. Otherwise might need to look for other cars. By the way, what do you think about 2003 3.0 automatic?
Click to expand...
Most purist sports car drivers (and Z4 enthusiasts) seem to insist on a manual gearbox, but I personally really like the M54 3.0i / auto combo. Upgrading to flappy paddles is a fun thing to do and not difficult.
 
fmbnd said:
Volks Cars, Kidderminster. It looks all right, maybe a little 'off the radar'
Click to expand...
John at Volks Cars usually asks me to fix & relocate his roof motors, He called me asking for a date, but Im busy for the next week, then ill be up to see him.
Alan
 
Number5 said:
John at Volks Cars usually asks me to fix & relocate his roof motors, He called me asking for a date, but Im busy for the next week, then ill be up to see him.
Alan
Click to expand...
Mystery solved then, there's only one Alan! I'm currently without a car and really need to get sorted, so I'm hoping to collect it tomorrow. Will probably need to get the roof motor done a bit further down the line, so I'd like to get in touch with you then, if you're happy to take it on. No rush on timing at all, I know you're busy. Thanks for clearing that up, really appreciate it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom