What have you done to your car today?

Made the Z jealous by driving an Alpine A110S at Thruxton this morning…….

…… was pleased with my laps by the end - got x12 in. Then the pro driver took me out - full on sh*t my pants !
 

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Replaced the crank sensor O ring. Starter motor was done last winter so it looks new(ish) Did the Oil filter and cooler last week. Replaced Valve Cover, Solenoid motor gasket and Eccentric gasket a few weeks ago. Safe to say I had a bit of cleaning to do before I put everything back together! Bought everything from BMW, service and price surprisingly good.
 

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Just done oil filter housing & oil cooler gaskets on 2008 E85 N52. Loads of good advice here and elsewhere on this job on the N52, but could not find anything for the N52 in a E85. Getting to the 6 bolts was a challenge, much less room at the front of the E85 due to that front cross member. Job done (and well if I do say so myself!)...might just have inspired me to do a utube vid of this as definately different to the other N52 guides for a Z4. Get in touch if you need any tips. A mulitude of etorx devices are needed!
 
Great work @TriggerFish , so many questions. This is a job I would like to do one day. Is there a thread on here, where do you start, what tools required etc?

Thanks! I'm hoping it'll be worth the effort. From my research (based on the E46, as there's so much more information!), I'm going with:
- stock rear rta bushes with load limiters
- poly rear subframe
- all 4 hub joints as ball joints (as per the m3)
- everything else standard

This video is basically all you'll need:

I think on the z4 it is tighter with the diff, so I'll probably:
- fit the suspension arms to the subframe
- fit the subframe to the car
- set the suspension to height and torque up
- remove from car
- fit diff
- refit subframe and dif to car

So far no special tools. Just a socket and spanner set and an E12 torx bit. Impact gun is useful for fighting the tough bolts.

I bought this tool. I've only done the upper arms with it so far, but with an impact driver, it made it a walk in the park (once I'd worked out how to use it!)


I'm just doing it on axle stands at home. I just jacked it up and started unbolting stuff, starting with the exhaust and working upwards. Honestly, the hardest part so far has been getting the prop shaft out of the diff as it was a bit stuck. It's all logical and pretty easy if you're confident with mechanical work. Just time consuming and awkward working on your back a lot.
 
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Oh, and a load of stuff to clean/treat/protect the metal. I like bilt hamber stuff (used it on my e30 with good effect - still holding up well after thousands of miles and several years).

And obviously a drill/angle grinder with some nylon wheels and paint removal flap discs to clean everything up.

This is what I ordered. I have some of their products already, so you'd probably want 1l of hydrate 80 not just 500ml, and I have a 5l pail of their underbody wax, too.

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Today, before it started raining. I got the car out the garage and fitted a new front left wheel speed sensor. I also learned that they are left and right handed.

I then made a s**t tip of my garage as I fitted my new front suspension. I had never done this before. I also learned that there are left and right things here too.

I now have to go through this god forsaken mess so I can get my car back in and start cleaning up a load of parts I got in a good deal.

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What did you think of the Alpine?
The "S" is an awesome car, beautifully balanced with lots of feedback - but unless you are going to do lots of track days I think the standard Alpine is better for road driving.

When the pro drove it right to the limit, I realised I was probably driving it at 40% of its capacity and that was enough for me!
 
Replaced seized front Caliper on my 2.0l, went the whole hog and changed both sides, got to do the rears but they will be having new discs as well.
 
Replaced the plastic cover under the windshield and switched to summer wheels.
 

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Gummi Pfleged all the seals, cleaned the glass and got my iphone hooked up to the car via
a USB cable
 
Emptied the boot and hoovered it, 2nd time in 4 years (oops). Then the inside. Checked tyre pressure, down 2psi all round, pumped up to 22/24 psi. Much better.
 
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Emptied the boot and hoovered it, 2nd time in 4 years (oops). Then the inside. Checked tyre pressure, down 2psi all round, pumped up to 22/24 psi. Much better.
Seems a bit low Mikey. Normally 2.2/2.4 bar, which is 32/35 psi. Are you reading the scale right?
 
I have had this annoying bumping sound when I drove over uneven road surfaces slowly, coming from somewhere under the passenger side. I have poked around under the car as best I can and made sure the wheel nuts are tight. Well, after clearing out the boot yesterday and then the inside, and finding a small bottle of water under the passenger seat it has stopped!! My wife stores things under there. :rolleyes: :rofl:
 
After 110°C in the oven and 30 minutes of gentle prying, final split my lens for the corroded fog lamp housing.

Now for the other one…..
 

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Dropped the fuel tank to check for rust behind it. It's pretty clean, but a couple of scabs where BMW fits foam to the fuel tank, and that foam sits against the chassis. If the foam wasn't present, it'd be much less rusty!

Then removed the battery tray for better access for my ongoing rust treatment. This... was not fun. 4 out of 7 bolts snapped, half the boot needing stripping down, and 7 of 8 bolts under the car were rusted away and needed extractors to get them out.

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