What have you done to your E89 today
- Thread starter Bombur
- Start date
Porthcawl
Photos are always good, we know what Z4's look like, but we still like pics. Well I do anyway
South Lanarkshire
Pics, or it didn't happenApart from a good wash, using my new Karcher, I've finally got around to fitting a pair of LCI wingdicators
No photos because we all know what they look like.
Whitchurch
Ohio
I accidentally dropped one of those plastic push fasteners when a was looking for my hat in the boot. Took some dissassmbly to find it, but several hours later I successfullly recovered it. Does anyone know how this goes back together?
2x Brake Disc Splash Panel Front Left Right for BMW 1 Series 3 Series E93 325i | eBay UK
BMW 3 Series E93 2007-2013 320d 2.0L RWD Convertible. BMW 3 Series E93 2007-2013 320i 2.0L RWD Convertible. BMW 3 Series E93 2007-2011 323i 2.5L RWD Convertible. BMW 3 Series E93 2007-2013 325d 3.0L RWD Convertible.
ebay.us
BMW M135i M140i M235i M240i FRONT BRAKE DISCS MTEC PADS & WEAR SENSOR | eBay UK
BMW M135i M140i M235i M240i FRONT DRILLED GROOVED BRAKE DISCS MTEC PADS & WEAR SENSOR. Front MTEC Pads. Key Benefits of MTEC Discs. Our discs are machined using state of the art CNC machines which ensure all designs are cut with precision.
ebay.us
2x Front Side Brake Caliper for BMW 1 2 3 4 Series F20 F23 F31 F36 34116799465 | eBay UK
OE Number: 34116799465, 34116799466. BMW 4 Series F36 2014-2020 2.0 Coupe. BMW 4 Series F36 2014-2021 3.0 Coupe. BMW 2 Series F23 2014-2021 2.0 Convertible. BMW 2 Series F23 2014-2021 3.0 Convertible.
ebay.us
United Kingdom
Take extra care when refitting the rear light clusters making sure the gaskets seat properly and they bolt up tight. Otherwise you will have an underwater battery and roof module. Not good.
Looks great.Today, I fitted my brake upgrade to 340mm rotors and 4 pot calipers. Everything was a straight bolt on fit, no modifying required. Very happy with the results
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Scottish Borders
Rather than get an auto electrician in to do my coding, I decided to buy a Carly and do it myself. I needed an OBD reader anyway to diagnose issues (more of that later) so I set about the coding jobs with mixed results..
Reversing the Auto Start Stop to default OFF seems to have worked. I had presumed that the button would be lit orange all the time as it does if you press it to disable the function but it doesn’t seem to be. If it has just reversed the state in the background and leaves the button unilluminated, I actually think that’s a better outcome.
Car has electric mirrors so I coded the passenger mirror to dip on reverse engagement. Normally, if you don’t want it to dip you move the mirror toggle switch to the passenger side but I’ve tried it in both positions and it won’t dip. I guess that is not an available feature on my car rather than the coding not working.
I fitted the LED Reversing lights without any coding and they seem fine, I could always turn off the voltage monitoring if required but the bulbs I used are marked with CANBUS so I suspect it’s already worked out (like the angel eyes).
Adjusting the heated seat temperatures. This is supposed to be done through one of either the Junction Box module or the Footwell module. Despite Carly saying it can be done, there is no coding items in either to do with heated seats. I looked in all the other available modules and it’s not there either. Wonder if anyone can shed more light on this.
Reversing the Auto Start Stop to default OFF seems to have worked. I had presumed that the button would be lit orange all the time as it does if you press it to disable the function but it doesn’t seem to be. If it has just reversed the state in the background and leaves the button unilluminated, I actually think that’s a better outcome.
Car has electric mirrors so I coded the passenger mirror to dip on reverse engagement. Normally, if you don’t want it to dip you move the mirror toggle switch to the passenger side but I’ve tried it in both positions and it won’t dip. I guess that is not an available feature on my car rather than the coding not working.
I fitted the LED Reversing lights without any coding and they seem fine, I could always turn off the voltage monitoring if required but the bulbs I used are marked with CANBUS so I suspect it’s already worked out (like the angel eyes).
Adjusting the heated seat temperatures. This is supposed to be done through one of either the Junction Box module or the Footwell module. Despite Carly saying it can be done, there is no coding items in either to do with heated seats. I looked in all the other available modules and it’s not there either. Wonder if anyone can shed more light on this.
Not the most exciting and certainly not the cheapest but I've always been more than happy with the quality and fit of the OEM floor mats.
So on that basis I removed the after market mats this morning and replaced them with OEM replacements that I ordered online from BMW Park Lane
So on that basis I removed the after market mats this morning and replaced them with OEM replacements that I ordered online from BMW Park Lane
Busy day on the Z4 today. New tie rods and track rod ends both sides, new anti roll bar drop links and ARB bushes. Mechanic cursing them as they as glued to the ARB and he has spent ages getting them off and the bar cleaned up properly. The bushes on the old drop links are shot whereas the track rod ends were surprisingly ok apart from the pinch bolt being seized solid and the alignment shop were rightly afraid to snap them. Waiting for the new rear lower wishbones to arrive as the eccentric adjustment bots for camber are locked solid too.
And as I write DHL have just delivered a new High Pressure fuel pump which will be fitted today as the old one threw a code (2C01 if you’re interested) earlier in the week and caused me to use my RAC membership for the first time yesterday
New one going on, fuel and mixture adaptations to be cleared, MAF sensor getting a clean, codes cleared and we should be good to go. Let’s see.
And as I write DHL have just delivered a new High Pressure fuel pump which will be fitted today as the old one threw a code (2C01 if you’re interested) earlier in the week and caused me to use my RAC membership for the first time yesterday
New one going on, fuel and mixture adaptations to be cleared, MAF sensor getting a clean, codes cleared and we should be good to go. Let’s see.
It would seem someone has been at the High Pressure Fuel Pump before me as the left bolt (nearest the firewall) had been overtightened and the thread stripped. Literally took it out with fingers only. Anyway, new pump installed and slightly longer bolt used as a temporary fix until I change the rocker cover in 2 weeks and the new pump is transformational. The old one must have been failing the whole time I’ve had the car (just a month) until it finally gave in yesterday. The car now feels much more powerful through the rev range especially higher up as it gets up on the cam. Very happy with the fix and it was super easy to do. Key points if you tackle it yourself are
1 Try to have left the car for a good while prior so there is little fuel pressure in the lines. We had a few drips on to a shop towel but nothing much really. Dealing with the high pressure fuel is the only scary bit.
2 Make sure that you fit the new pump carefully tightening both bolts down evenly on to the cam follower below, and importantly ensure that the engine is at bottom dead centre before installing the pump. Use a 22mm socket on the bottom pulley at the front of the engine to find BDC and stick your clean finger on the cam follower and you will feel the bottom of the stroke. If you don’t do this, you will destroy your new fuel pump on first start up. Be careful.
3. Torque spec for the 2 bolts on the pump is 12NM. EXCEED THIS AT YOUR PERIL. The fuel lines torque to 32.5NM. Be certain that these are tight. Fuel spraying on a hot engine is a bad day.
Took 30 mins altogether. I reckon 15 if I did another tomorrow.
1 Try to have left the car for a good while prior so there is little fuel pressure in the lines. We had a few drips on to a shop towel but nothing much really. Dealing with the high pressure fuel is the only scary bit.
2 Make sure that you fit the new pump carefully tightening both bolts down evenly on to the cam follower below, and importantly ensure that the engine is at bottom dead centre before installing the pump. Use a 22mm socket on the bottom pulley at the front of the engine to find BDC and stick your clean finger on the cam follower and you will feel the bottom of the stroke. If you don’t do this, you will destroy your new fuel pump on first start up. Be careful.
3. Torque spec for the 2 bolts on the pump is 12NM. EXCEED THIS AT YOUR PERIL. The fuel lines torque to 32.5NM. Be certain that these are tight. Fuel spraying on a hot engine is a bad day.
Took 30 mins altogether. I reckon 15 if I did another tomorrow.