Roof latch ?

Scot

Member
 Lancaster County
Been working on my son in-laws 03 Z4 3.0 manual trans. Problem started with a drowned stereo amp and fried wiring harness plug to the amp. New amp and a spliced in pig tail has the stereo working except volume. ( that’s for another day) car had thrown all kinds of codes as I had the battery out for weeks. Anti tampering was active and had to reset that with my Foxwell NY 510 elite. So I try the roof and I get a flashing red light but some time solid red light for the roof. In short Front roof latches were not releasing. Windows go down and the motor would run with bad crunching and skipping noises. So I used an Allen T wrench and I can open and close the latches. Pulled the motor out and the plastic drive gears look to be all good with no broken teeth or cracked gears. My question is, if I can hand crank the latches open and closed this would mean the latches them selves and the latch mechanisms are ok? I have ordered a new gear set just Incase they are bad. Thanks.
 
As you will have worked out by hand cranking it, the motor goes a lot faster than you can turn it. So it may well be the extra speed/torque is enough to jump the gears.
 
Been working on my son in-laws 03 Z4 3.0 manual trans. Problem started with a drowned stereo amp and fried wiring harness plug to the amp. New amp and a spliced in pig tail has the stereo working except volume. ( that’s for another day) car had thrown all kinds of codes as I had the battery out for weeks. Anti tampering was active and had to reset that with my Foxwell NT 510 elite. So I try the roof and I get a flashing red light but some time solid red light for the roof. In short Front roof latches were not releasing. Windows go down and the motor would run with bad crunching and skipping noises. So I used an Allen T wrench and I can open and close the latches. Pulled the motor out and the plastic drive gears look to be all good with no broken teeth or cracked gears. My question is, if I can hand crank the latches open and closed this would mean the latches them selves and the latch mechanisms are ok? I have ordered a new gear set just Incase they are bad. Thanks.
Plenty of parts and looms available if required
 

Attachments

  • 20251224_104926.jpg
    20251224_104926.jpg
    669 KB · Views: 5
  • 20251224_105219.jpg
    20251224_105219.jpg
    727.4 KB · Views: 6
  • 20251224_105717.jpg
    20251224_105717.jpg
    691 KB · Views: 3
  • 20251224_105534.jpg
    20251224_105534.jpg
    656.2 KB · Views: 3
  • 20251224_105514.jpg
    20251224_105514.jpg
    621.8 KB · Views: 5
I have replaced the gears in the front roof latch motor. Will latch the roof but seems to bind up when attempting to unlatch. This is an E85 and I can’t seem to find a video on how to take the plastic off that is covering the latches. Every video seems to be for an e46 and it looks to be different. Any help is appreciated.
 
I have replaced the gears in the front roof latch motor. Will latch the roof but seems to bind up when attempting to unlatch. This is an E85 and I can’t seem to find a video on how to take the plastic off that is covering the latches. Every video seems to be for an e46 and it looks to be different. Any help is appreciated.
Would these images help you?
I read another members post somewhere about accessing the top of the front of the roof.
If I recall correctly, with it half open, undo the little screws across the front, remove the 2 small windo seal rubbers and there's more screws behind there.

I know I'm missing a chunk of information

I've definitely read it on here.

1000036965.jpg1000036963.jpg
 
Would these images help you?
I read another members post somewhere about accessing the top of the front of the roof.
If I recall correctly, with it half open, undo the little screws across the front, remove the 2 small windo seal rubbers and there's more screws behind there.

I know I'm missing a chunk of information

I've definitely read it on here.

View attachment 289535View attachment 289536
That did it. Thanks. So I took the latches out and sprayed them with silicone. Put them back together and it almost worked but would not fully unlatch. I did pull a code 43 cvm drive vowel panel open circuit. So I guess I have to chase wires?
 
Latch problem solved! Not wiring. Took the motor out again and went to a local auto electrical repair shop. He noticed that a set screw was missing on the armature shaft end. ( next to the gear box) (Sorry I didn’t take a picture). In short, the motor would latch fine but was binding and stalling out when unlatching. The set screw missing allowed the armature shaft to move and cause the binding. Put it back in and it runs perfectly latching and unlatching. Now on to the lift pump as it is dead from rust. Confirmed power is going to it for both directions. Hopefully the top will be fully functional after the new pump and relocating it.
 
Latch problem solved! Not wiring. Took the motor out again and went to a local auto electrical repair shop. He noticed that a set screw was missing on the armature shaft end. ( next to the gear box) (Sorry I didn’t take a picture). In short, the motor would latch fine but was binding and stalling out when unlatching. The set screw missing allowed the armature shaft to move and cause the binding. Put it back in and it runs perfectly latching and unlatching. Now on to the lift pump as it is dead from rust. Confirmed power is going to it for both directions. Hopefully the top will be fully functional after the new pump and relocating it.
Great result for you.
I had a "dead" motor for being submerged in water. Filled it full of WD40 left it a week to soak.
Pushed the stubby end of the motor shaft that comes out between the power terminals to a drill and used the drill to turn to motor in both directions.
Then connected it to a battery and the motor eventually came back to life with some encouragement with tapping with a hammer.
 
Back
Top Bottom