e89 rear shell manual open

mcflin

mcflin

Member
 Te Awanga
Hood not working.No fault code.I need to manualy lift rear shell to replace broken wiring or microswitch.I have boot axcess,Windows go down,pump starts but thats it,Have tryed shorting pin 7 and 10,no joy,released pump bypass 1 1/2 turns no joy.It appears to be locked hydraulicity or electricly.I have been googling for 10 days to find answer,someone must know how,regards Lyn in New Zealand
 
Hi, ther's a contradiction in your description:
mcflin said:
[...]pump starts but thats it
Click to expand...
If the pump get's activated ('runs"), the roof ecu CTM has pre-checked all wirings to the different roof sensors (plus a lot of other pre-conditions) and didn't identify an issue! If so, it never would activate the 2 salmon relays to run the pump.

mcflin said:
...to replace broken wiring or microswitch.
Click to expand...
What's the base of this diagnosis?
 
THANK YOU Robbi,.I have read a lot about being THE MAN,so what do you suggest the next step,the battery is 100% I still think lifting the rear shell would be a good idear,as I dont know where else to turn,Mind you I llove the car as a hard top and if all else fails can live with that.
regards Lyn
 
⌛ E89: Collection of the 9 typical age-related defects in the roof environment

1st step independent of your issue is to replace the two salmon relays with new ones to avoid misfunctions due to worn internal contacts.

2nd step is to remove the black metal bracket (13mm tool) and lift the pump out of it's foam housing. Grab under the pump with your hand to separate it from the foam if it's "baked" on.
Place it onto the battery as a stable platform.

3rd step is checking the oil level in the reservoir, there are min/max markers on it. If it's not on the middle marker, there must be a leak in one of the hydraulic hoses
 
salmon relays taken to peaces and checked ,points cleaned and and checked out on the bench.
I toped up the oil 2 weeks ago,
when the pumps running it seems under load
 
mcflin said:
salmon relays taken to peaces and checked ,points cleaned
Click to expand...
We are talking exclusively about the internal contacts!!
Relais2.jpg

4th step is to check the pump's motor of corrosion on the lower side. If it's wet in the foam or the metal surface is corroded, water can be catched IN the motor and it has to be opened & dryed up.
 
Yes internal contacts,but will re check again tomorrow,the pump is spotless and no sign of water,,,a lot dryer climate here in NZ and always garaged
PS its way past time for bed,will check all tomorrow,
Thank you so much Robbi
 
mcflin said:
[...]pump starts but thats it
Click to expand...

To manually unlock the rear roof shell, BMW provides a special tool to be used with a wrench from the inside of the car.
1557562328230.png

PartNo 83300496597
It's to unlock the two "hooks" of both "arms" that move the roof shell.

The front(!) brass screw on the hydraulic pump has to be opened lfor a max of 2 turns!!) to release the hydraulic pressure in the hoses.

This tool has to be inserted into the two eyelets from the inside of the car. Turning it with a wrench will lock/unlock the mechanical part of the arms.

1766690572825.png
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: B21
I have seen photos of that tool,and if I new where it went I could make it,which is my trade as a engineer,But thinking last night your comments and the pump under pressure,MAYBE the pressure is going nowhere cause one of the electric solenoid valves is not opening,
but previously I had removed and checked and saw no fault while on the bench,so please tell or photo where that tool fits
regards Lyn
 
mcflin said:
MAYBE the pressure is going nowhere cause one of the electric solenoid valves is not opening
Click to expand...
It's extremely rare that one of these 3 or 4 solenoids fail. I'd say never.

Important:
there are complex sequences on several solenoids in parallel combined with the different directions the pump's motor is running in the different phases of the roof movement controlled by the CTM.

mcflin said:
so please tell or photo where that tool fits
Click to expand...
I've updated the post with the tool's picture.
 
You have been so helpful Robbi,I have been waylayed with not being able to get into the boot,googled and tried all the idears non worked till I found the one.

Firstly I got this info elsewhere, I didn't put it together but I have followed the process and it works. Keep in mind doing this is at your own risk! It's a hack but it could get you out of a tricky situation.

Step one - get to the fuse box and locate the connector shown on the underside of the fuse box, it's a long black one with a slide release on the back next to the firewall - X14270.
connected- a length of wire between pin 12 and a 9 volt battery,herd click but no movement so 12 volts,yep im in,so so happy.
Now to make the tool you sent photos of but I cant find the place to fit it on to,photo below am I in the right place







1766873866770.jpeg



1766873906197.jpeg














"
 

Attachments

  • ccccccccccccc.jpg
    ccccccccccccc.jpg
    1,001.5 KB · Views: 1
  • cccccccccccccccc55.jpg
    cccccccccccccccc55.jpg
    972.9 KB · Views: 1
RobbiZ4 said:
To manually unlock the rear roof shell, BMW provides a special tool to be used with a wrench from the inside of the car.
1557562328230-png.288514


PartNo 83300496597
It's to unlock the two "hooks" of both "arms" that move the roof shell.

The front(!) brass screw on the hydraulic pump has to be opened lfor a max of 2 turns!!) to release the hydraulic pressure in the hoses.

This tool has to be inserted into the two eyelets from the inside of the car. Turning it with a wrench will lock/unlock the mechanical part of the arms.

1766690572825-png.288551
Click to expand...
The silver tool is to unlock the rear roof shell! You are searching anything in the trunk. ;)
 
mcflin said:
Firstly I got this info elsewhere, I didn't put it together but I have followed the process and it works. Keep in mind doing this is at your own risk! It's a hack but it could get you out of a tricky situation.

Step one - get to the fuse box and locate the connector shown on the underside of the fuse box, it's a long black one with a slide release on the back next to the firewall - X14270.
connected- a length of wire between pin 12 and a 9 volt battery,herd click but no movement so 12 volts,yep im in,so so happy.
Now to make the tool you sent photos of but I cant find the place to fit it on to,photo below am I in the right place
Click to expand...
Can be found here in this forum as well:
S

Post in thread 'Internal boot release button retrofit'

B21 said:
AnubisZed said:
B21 said:
I assume this doesn't get around the problem of a failed normal boot release mechanism in any way?
Click to expand...
No it doesn't
Click to expand...

Ah well..just need to make sure I have you and Robbi on speed dial! :thumbsup: :rofl:
Click to expand...

Here you go :thumbsup:

0E5A0294-1375-4555-9E0F-D4C0F71681B1.jpeg14CA9649-BBC8-4C0C-868C-44B925FEA5A5.png088D5F91-8409-473C-AC72-FF4BBD73450B.jpeg
Rob
 
Thank you again Robbi
I gather its in the back corner behind your head will check that out BUT how do you remove the black plasic cover to fit the tool.I,have got the only screw I could see out but something else is holding it
cheers Lyn
 
Last edited:
Which screw? :eek:
Never recommended to touch a screw on the roof shell.

Update:
Okay, I did it after all: :D
RobbiZ4 said:
2nd step is to remove the black metal bracket (13mm tool) and lift the pump out of it's foam housing. Grab under the pump with your hand to separate it from the foam if it's "baked" on.
Place it onto the battery as a stable platform.
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom