Help Please - installing kill switch track car

Ah, now I see your issue. You have no understanding of context. I know Liam and the comment clearly shows that had I been bothered I could have assisted you more.
I understand English probably is a struggle for those that only adopted it, then bastardised it.
I will try to be clearer in future, just for you. X

Well crap :) Sorry, now I know what you meant, my apologies - seemed like you were calling me out for not doing a search... seemed to me like you started crap - like both of us said, I guess I took it out of context.
 
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Ok. So after further investigating. Looks like it runs into this clip, I assume it terminates into this circuit board/dme fuse box. @Liam22

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I'm glad we've got the cultural/contextual differences out of the way :)

I fitted a different type of battery master switch so didn't have to solve this problem.

The main problem you have is that you have two "fuse boxes". One in the cabin and one in the engine bay. And each has a separate 12V supply from the battery; one through the car and the other underneath. Your switch assumes you have a single 12V supply.

So I think you have two choices:
1. Ignore the internal fusebox and hook the master switch into the engine bay supply. This will (probably) kill the engine but will leave lights on which is dangerous (when upsidedown and leaking fuel) and will probably fail technical scrutineering.
2. Relocate the battery and/or run a single 12V supply to the master switch and then distribute the power to each of the 3 separate supplies that the car expects.
 
I'm glad we've got the cultural/contextual differences out of the way :)

I fitted a different type of battery master switch so didn't have to solve this problem.

The main problem you have is that you have two "fuse boxes". One in the cabin and one in the engine bay. And each has a separate 12V supply from the battery; one through the car and the other underneath. Your switch assumes you have a single 12V supply.

So I think you have two choices:
1. Ignore the internal fusebox and hook the master switch into the engine bay supply. This will (probably) kill the engine but will leave lights on which is dangerous (when upsidedown and leaking fuel) and will probably fail technical scrutineering.
2. Relocate the battery and/or run a single 12V supply to the master switch and then distribute the power to each of the 3 separate supplies that the car expects.
@Liam22 2 perfect Thanks. Can you Confirm this red cable (last Pic above) is the one that connects to that clip / is the thinner cable from the battery.
 
@Liam22 2 perfect Thanks. Can you Confirm this red cable (last Pic above) is the one that connects to that clip / is the thinner cable from the battery.
Confirmed. It is supplied from the 100A fuse at the battery in the boot.
 

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I had zero issues removing all of that stuff. The DME doesn't know - certainly no faults shown.
 
It was clearly an attempt to diffuse the escalating negativity.
I believe you are correct @Liam22 .
I took umbrage due to a misunderstanding of who my comments were aimed at.
I think Facebook has an influence on that as people expect to be slagged off at every comment.

However, the upside of it all is that I did help put the OP in touch with you, so he's in the best hands for his advice. :thumbsup:
 
I believe you are correct @Liam22 .
I took umbrage due to a misunderstanding of who my comments were aimed at.
I think Facebook has an influence on that as people expect to be slagged off at every comment.

However, the upside of it all is that I did help put the OP in touch with you, so he's in the best hands for his advice. :thumbsup:

All I can say is - thank god for Liam - there aren't many of these cars around, especially here, and without his thread and knowledge there would almost be zero information how to transform an e86/e85 into a track machine / race car. Thanks again for all the help.
 
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