Liverpool
No!
The '40' part is the sidewall size as a percentage of the width. So the same 40% means 94mm for the 235 width (235 x 0.4) and 98mm for the 245 width (245 x 0.4).
235/35r19 would have an even smaller sidewall of 82mm (235 x 0.35).
Atacama Yellow 35is build thread
- Thread starter B21
- Start date
The '40' part is the sidewall size as a percentage of the width. So the same 40% means 94mm for the 235 width (235 x 0.4) and 98mm for the 245 width (245 x 0.4).
235/35r19 would have an even smaller sidewall of 82mm (235 x 0.35).
Scottish Borders
For my type of driving and where I drive after 6 bent rims I’ve decided to go with an increase in profile..
I have two sets of wheels ..437M with 9j and 10j and apex arc 8 at 8.5j and 9.5j
So ideal size in original profiles would be 235/35 19 and 275/30 19 for the Arc 8s and 245/35 19 and 285/30 19 on 437Ms.
I’ve decided based on much professional advice that going up 5 on the profile to xxx/40 19 and yyy/35 19 would result in a very significant bent rim reduction..
I’ve bought various spacers in 2.5mm increments to see about shoe horning the 285s in..
Also I’ve never been able to get the Ohlins to sit at the recommended ride height which is the non MSport ride height -11mm at front and stock rear..
With the 96nm uprated rear springs vs 70nm stock on the rear I’m hoping to get enough wheel height clearance as the total max increase in radius is around 27mm and I’m sure I’m about 15mm-20mm down on ride height at the moment.
The 275s just rub on one side on the outboard edge of the internal liner.
It’s going to be tight…
As to the look I’ve never been able to fan of narrow tyres or wheels sat low in the wheel wells..
Imho
I have two sets of wheels ..437M with 9j and 10j and apex arc 8 at 8.5j and 9.5j
So ideal size in original profiles would be 235/35 19 and 275/30 19 for the Arc 8s and 245/35 19 and 285/30 19 on 437Ms.
I’ve decided based on much professional advice that going up 5 on the profile to xxx/40 19 and yyy/35 19 would result in a very significant bent rim reduction..
I’ve bought various spacers in 2.5mm increments to see about shoe horning the 285s in..
Also I’ve never been able to get the Ohlins to sit at the recommended ride height which is the non MSport ride height -11mm at front and stock rear..
With the 96nm uprated rear springs vs 70nm stock on the rear I’m hoping to get enough wheel height clearance as the total max increase in radius is around 27mm and I’m sure I’m about 15mm-20mm down on ride height at the moment.
The 275s just rub on one side on the outboard edge of the internal liner.
It’s going to be tight…
As to the look I’ve never been able to fan of narrow tyres or wheels sat low in the wheel wells..
Imho
It is my understanding that the 40 is 40% of the with. So if 234/40 vs 245/40 they will different. 245 will be greater rolling radius.
S
o left hand spring had snapped.
Garage is having difficulty getting the ride heights set.
Went out with new springs with plenty of wheel arch for a 20 mile potter as they asked me to see how it felt to me.
Much much better..maybe a tad too firm but not outrageously so..of course should tweak the damping to suit the new spring rate.
In a world devoid of limitations probably best to try a 88nm/mm versus this at 96nm/mm vs stock of 70nm/mm.
However it felt much better, less roll, still rode small bumps OK, no bottoming out.
So they'll try and jack the fronts to get with 5mm-10mm.
I'll be taking it off the road soon so will mess around..
May leave it till the first NC500 in March as that's the ultimate test of suspension and handling.
o left hand spring had snapped.Garage is having difficulty getting the ride heights set.
Went out with new springs with plenty of wheel arch for a 20 mile potter as they asked me to see how it felt to me.
Much much better..maybe a tad too firm but not outrageously so..of course should tweak the damping to suit the new spring rate.
In a world devoid of limitations probably best to try a 88nm/mm versus this at 96nm/mm vs stock of 70nm/mm.
However it felt much better, less roll, still rode small bumps OK, no bottoming out.
So they'll try and jack the fronts to get with 5mm-10mm.
I'll be taking it off the road soon so will mess around..
May leave it till the first NC500 in March as that's the ultimate test of suspension and handling.
North West Surrey
One of my techy Zed colleagues theorises that the spring is way too soft and it’s been getting coiled bound on some of those lovely bumpy roads you know where when travelling at ‘adequate pace’…
Getting coil bound would crack the paint and put huge strain on the springs …
I think I’ll give these significantly stronger springs a good test before maybe going one or two clicks down on spring rate..
Certainly today it felt overall a whole lot better …hopefully can now go a lot faster on the NC500…🏎
Garage tidy up prior to the winter update / refurb / service program
Repaint front and rear bumpers correct yellow
Repaint sills and mirror caps
Add Bluetooth module to the DSP
Continue the leather trim update to the central cubby and door elbow rests
Sort out the ride height on the new springs
Fit the production version of the rear big brake kit to my test set
Reverse the left right on the blind spot radars..they’re the wrong way around..
Tilt front camera down to get more ground / less sky
Wire 2nd reversing camera into the idrive..first goes to the id4 cluster
Do a paint correction..
Put API-SP oil n filter in for winter layover protection.
Service the diverter valves
Refit old idrive head unit now refurbed
Fresh satnav roadmaps
Repaint front and rear bumpers correct yellow
Repaint sills and mirror caps
Add Bluetooth module to the DSP
Continue the leather trim update to the central cubby and door elbow rests
Sort out the ride height on the new springs
Fit the production version of the rear big brake kit to my test set
Reverse the left right on the blind spot radars..they’re the wrong way around..
Tilt front camera down to get more ground / less sky
Wire 2nd reversing camera into the idrive..first goes to the id4 cluster
Do a paint correction..
Put API-SP oil n filter in for winter layover protection.
Service the diverter valves
Refit old idrive head unit now refurbed
Fresh satnav roadmaps
Attachments
Got the car back from the local garage..charged nme 4 hours labour..£200 cash..for fitting new springs and farting about..
Got the car up on the lift and had a look at the issues..
The primary problem is that the perch that the spring sits on has a threaded collar which you can rotate to raise or lower the ride height.
The problem is that with these 96nm/mm springs the adjustment fouls the upper wishbone because of the way the wishbone is recessed in the centre.
So you can't get the C spanners in.
Anyway..
Using the lift and a compacted ladder set as prop I preloaded the damper..removed its lower bolt and then raised the car on the lift causing the wishbone go to full droop..
This allowed me to loosen the lock ring and just use fingers to rotate the collar on the perch so its fully down.
Tried to see how it sat on the ground..improved a bit..looks like its a strong spring.
The guys hadn't really tackled the front springs and fortunately they are really easy to get too..
It looks like the 35is with that massive N54 canted over the right side needs an awful lot more preload on the right strut to hold the front equally!
I've always ben wary of twiddling with springs and coilovers but feeling braver now!
Got the car up on the lift and had a look at the issues..
The primary problem is that the perch that the spring sits on has a threaded collar which you can rotate to raise or lower the ride height.
The problem is that with these 96nm/mm springs the adjustment fouls the upper wishbone because of the way the wishbone is recessed in the centre.
So you can't get the C spanners in.
Anyway..
Using the lift and a compacted ladder set as prop I preloaded the damper..removed its lower bolt and then raised the car on the lift causing the wishbone go to full droop..
This allowed me to loosen the lock ring and just use fingers to rotate the collar on the perch so its fully down.
Tried to see how it sat on the ground..improved a bit..looks like its a strong spring.
The guys hadn't really tackled the front springs and fortunately they are really easy to get too..
It looks like the 35is with that massive N54 canted over the right side needs an awful lot more preload on the right strut to hold the front equally!
I've always ben wary of twiddling with springs and coilovers but feeling braver now!
Dropped the Fuchs Pro-Race ester based oil and put in some common or garden API-SN/SN+ to use as a detergent wash and keep the internals clean and acid free over the winter..
Lovely Mahle filter..
I'll inspect the old one tomorrow and send the oil of for analysis.
The airbox filter didn't look that bad but amazing amount of road dirt in the bottom of the filter box...need the Dyson to get it all out..
Lovely Mahle filter..
I'll inspect the old one tomorrow and send the oil of for analysis.
The airbox filter didn't look that bad but amazing amount of road dirt in the bottom of the filter box...need the Dyson to get it all out..
I haven’t ..why do you think I have?Why have you taken the H&R anti roll bars off…?
Hi there…all the E85 guys have pointed this out…sadly on the E89 the top spring mount is buried and is not accessible…
I’m sure Ohlins would have suggested it if it was possible…..
Your correct it does look like an oe drop link..I thought I had aftermarket ones all round…
I’ll check shortly …given I’m at stock-ish ride height it’s not an issue in itself…
I’ll check to see if someone has stolen my ARBs..
I know the front drop links are definitely not OE as one was disconnected after its visit to Ohlins service centre !
Hello..yes that’s interesting ..I’ll relook at it shortly…
The barrel spring is a lot shorter and it looks like the perch is longer..so it may peek from whatever is obstructing Ohlins access..
You can’t fit H&R rear bars with stock drop links so….Your correct it does look like an oe drop link..I thought I had aftermarket ones all round…
I’ll check shortly …given I’m at stock-ish ride height it’s not an issue in itself…
I’ll check to see if someone has stolen my ARBs..
I know the front drop links are definitely not OE as one was disconnected after its visit to Ohlins service centre !
It’d be a variation on nicking cat converters….
I'll have a peek now!You can’t fit H&R rear bars with stock drop links so….
It’d be a variation on nicking cat converters….