A670 code in CTM after Convertible top wiring harness replaced

accts4mjs

accts4mjs

Member
 Boise Idaho
I finally finished replacing my convertible top wiring harness replacement. All sensors and switches were functioning and communicating. The red roof light stopped flashing and I was able to close the top. But now it won’t open. 🫠

The only error I’m getting is 0xA670. From my master googling all I can find is a fog sensor on the rear view mirror or water in the trunk like this thread talks about: https://z4-forum.com/threads/a670-fogging-sensor.147614/

I pulled the hydraulic pump, rubber housing for the pump and my battery. I didn’t see anything in the trunk. Zero liquid. I vacuumed it all out and put everything back. I cleared the code but it came right back.

Help!! Please 😁. I’m so close to getting my car back to functioning.

IMG_0831.jpeg

Here are some photos of the battery/pump well in my trunk. I don’t even see a sensor anywhere.

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IMG_0832.jpeg
 
D

Thread 'A670 Fogging Sensor'

OK Guys I'm now getting a couple of fault codes up 1 is A696 Hal sensor that one is well explained on the forum so i wont ask about that one , but the other is A670 Fogging Sensor does anyone know what exactly this one is referring to had a quick search and read a couple of posts but it still not completely clear
Anyone konw what exactly needs to be repaired or replaced to fix this code
Thanks
 
@RobbiZ4 you’ve helped me a few times on my convertible top rewiring project (thank you!!). Any ideas why I would be getting an A670 error indicating “Error fitting sensor” when I was trying to close my top for the first time since I rewired everything?

Is this really the rearview window sensor? If yes, why would it prevent the operation of my top?

If no, any ideas on what the code might mean when thrown by the CTM?
 
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Thank you Robbi! Unfortunately my OBDII plug on the Z4 is wiggly (broken mount on the side of the car) and it shorted out my K+DCAN USB cable (I've been using a Foxwell NT510 which was great until it shorted out too .. need to fix that stupid mount). I'll get a new cable and let you know what it says. Hopefully I can find the faulty switch or sensor and get it back up and running.
 
Since no details about your self-made harness are known, it is like starting in nowhere.
  • A working codereader is a must!
  • Did you replace the two microswitches on the couplings in the trunk as well?
  • Did you check/better replace the 2 hallsensors on the right ram in the trunk with new E88 parts? It may be rusty inside, their working point may shift.
  • Hopefully you didn't touch/replace the two microswitches in the rear roof shell, as new ones have to be welded into the arms.
 
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1. Got a new K+DCAN cable today. My INPA install is broken so I downloaded a new copy of Mike's easy install and will try that tomorrow.
2. I bought the switches but the old ones seemed fine so I didn't bother to replace. I will replace them once I can get the trunk open again. Hoping I can just release the hydraulic valve bolts and use the manual open rod like I did before (roof 1 wasn't locked to the windshield the first time I did it).
3. I did check the 2 hallsensors on the right ram. If INPA shows problems I'll replace them.
4. I did not touch the two microswitches on roof shell 2. They work fine.

Thanks, I'll have an update tomorrow hopefully.
 
Hi Robbi, after quite a bit of wrangling I finally got my software setup properly and talking to my z4. Here is the data I pulled from ISTA:

Interrupt close rear end mod = no
luggage closed = not closed (I had moved it to get to the battery, the sensor works fine when I put it back in place)
C-button open = not operated
C-button close = not operated
Rear end module open = no
rear end module closed rt = yes
rear end module closed lt = yes
roof assy lowered = no
roof pack erected = yes
roof panel 2 packed = no
roof shell 2 closed rt = no
roof shell 2 closed lt = yes

Cowl panel unlocked = no
Cowl reached = yes
Cowl locked = yes
Hyd temp = 26C

Errors:
A68C - Roof panel 2 packed hall sensor (passenger side)
A68B - Roof panel 2 closed switch (driver side)


My plan for today is to try and get the roof panels back up so I can get to the wires. I know how to open the trunk with the push rod and to loosen the hydraulic valves but I've not had to open the cowl panel before (it was already open when I started fixing things). I couldn't find anything through various google searches. Is there a way to activate the cowl motors either through software or by putting a certain voltage (12v, 5v, 3v?) to specific pins on the cowl motor itself to reverse it so it opens?

1. Replace the two trunk switches with the new ones I already have.
2. Check connections for hall sensor on roof 2 (I've already replaced it with a new one)
3. If neither of those fixes the problem(s) then I'll replace the two hall sensors in the trunk right ram.
4. Pray. A lot.
 
Some pics of my Z4 from today's roof renovation session:

Was hast du heute gemacht mit deinem Zetti?

Danke :)
www.zroadster.com www.zroadster.com


accts4mjs said:
Is there a way to activate the cowl motors either through software or by putting a certain voltage (12v, 5v, 3v?) to specific pins on the cowl motor itself to reverse it so it opens?
Click to expand...
Can be done with INPA (E89, CTM, F6, ...), ISTA, maybe with i.e. FoxWell.

The motor is connected by the 2-pole connector on the CTM. It can be fired by +12V/ground on the one or the other poles.
 
Thanks! I’m going to try to bypass a couple of the input lines to the CTM that seem to be bad and see if that helps me at least get the roof 2 to open back up. I see the 12v lines on the cowl motor. Thanks! Fingers crossed!!
 
accts4mjs said:
roof shell 2 closed rt = no
roof shell 2 closed lt = yes
[...]

Errors:
A68C - Roof panel 2 packed hall sensor ( right side)
A68B - Roof panel 2 closed switch ( left side)
Click to expand...
In general on other Z4's:
Both faults obviously are based on broken/shorted wires in any of the 2x 3 bendings of the hydraulic loom, never by the microswitches or the hall sensor in the roof shell itself.

In your case:
Mixedup wires after replacing with new ones.

My current Z4 renovation story translated into English:

Was hast du heute gemacht mit deinem Zetti?

Danke :)
www-zroadster-com.translate.goog www-zroadster-com.translate.goog
 
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You are so much faster on your work. Nicely done (on your post showing your work from yesterday).

One thing I’ve been curious about: when you’re replacing wires do you replace the entire wire from the switch or sensor all the way back to the CTM or do you crimp them together somewhere along the line where there isn’t any flexion? I replaced the whole thing and trying to get it back into the CTM was a real pain. I think it’s because the outside sheathing on my flexible wire is thicker than the original wires were.
 
RobbiZ4 said:
Both faults obviously are basen on broken/shorted wires in any on the 2x 3 bendings of the hydraulic loom, never by the microswitches or the hall sensor in the roof shell.
Click to expand...
That seems odd that the break is in the loom. They’re brand new wires. If they’re really broken I’m in trouble. I did have a tough time getting the wires into the connectors so that’s why I worry about the connections.
 
accts4mjs said:
One thing I’ve been curious about: when you’re replacing wires do you replace the entire wire from the switch or sensor all the way back to the CTM ..
Click to expand...
Generally, new wires will be soldered in.
 
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accts4mjs said:
That seems odd that the break is in the loom. They’re brand new wires.
Click to expand...
Pardon, I've missed that in my answer. But, the measured sensor values are wrong!

Maybe yo've crossed over the two brown sensor wires of the microswitch on the left and the hall sensor on the right.

I made an update on my former post. ;)
 
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Oh man. That would have been so much better if I had soldered to existing lines. I didn’t think about that. Now I’m stuck with trying to fit new lines into the old sockets. I found some pins I can crimp on that are BMW but my wire insulation is slightly too big so it doesn’t quite fit right (I think that’s where the shorts are happening). I’ve pulled them all (6). I’ll get some thinner insulation 20ga wire and make short pigtails to put into the connector and solder my other lines to the pigtails.

Things you learn with experience. I could do this so much easier now that I’ve done it once 🤞🏼
 
Also, I was worried about crossing my browns on the passenger side where there’s a switch and a hall sensor. I double checked with a volt meter to make sure I had the right lines. So I’m 90% sure those are right. I bet it was shorting at the CTM connector.
 
Update: I got a replacement NT510 Foxwell and can easily see the settings again (it's way faster and easier than ISTA is -- at least for me). I was getting 3 errors on CTM parts. One switch on the left (top), one on the right (trunk), and the hall sensor on the top ram, right side (which is annoying because I replaced it with a new one -- maybe I screwed up the connection as I tried to reuse the old connector instead of direct solder).

I was able to get the errors to go away by connecting up replacement switches and the original hall sensor I removed because I thought it needed to be replaced but apparently not? I was super stoked because I no longer had the red flashing light on my buttons to raise/lower the top :D! But when I pushed them, nothing happened. I hooked up my foxwell to watch the live data and it does not register when I press either button. Have you run into the top up/down buttons not working before? I'll look for a fuse tomorrow in case that's it, but that's a weird one.

Also, I have a new fun problem where the passenger side (right on my car) is throwing an error for air bag and restraint system failures. I just can't seem to win.

Oh, and fun story: I told my wife on Sunday night I was going to throw in the towel and let the local BMW experts handle the problem. They've been in business for 40 years and everyone takes their BMWs and Mercedes to them, they're simply the best. I called them and they said, "Uh, yeah .. we don't work on convertible tops anymore .. they're too hard. There's one guy in town who is good enough to do it and still does but he's so booked out he doesn't take any new clients." Crazy! I checked into the other guy, and sure enough, no new clients. So yeah, I'm in this all the way.
 
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