Gotta love these roof issues... (Hall sensor)

H

Harry_E89

Member
 Bay Area, California
Hi all!
Looks like I've also got a roof issue on my E89..
My roof is closed but I'm getting an error saying its not- anytime I try to open or close it I'm getting a roof impaired warning.

I'm getting a A68C Hall Sensor, Roof shell 2, packed error code and I'm 90% sure this is just a broken wire.
I had a similar issue with a broken microswitch wire on the same right side but never replaced the hall sensor cable.

I'm current trying to trick the CTM module into thinking the hall sensor is operating by inputting a Voltage (ranging from 0-5V) but no dice.
Does anyone know the correct voltage that should be applied when the roof is closed? This is the voltage on Pin 3 btw.


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Current changes on sensing, so volt won't do it.
Need to just fix the broken wire as it monitors if open circuit, reason for bongs.

From memory i think it's only 3 volts on the feed line.
This is test using 9v battery, used craft blade to trigger.
hs test.jpg
 
flybobbie said:
Current changes on sensing, so volt won't do it.
Click to expand...
Correct.

This is my way:
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1835077#p1835077
 
Thanks for the replies guys!

i put multimeter in series with a resistor and voltage source and varied the voltage to change the input current from 4-20 mA.
No dice.

Am I doing something wrong here? Does the CTM expect a higher current??
 
That is wrong!

[...]
... and the reason, why I don't like to post these electronic details in here, as it can easily lead to destruction in the wrong hands!!!
 
Last edited:
Hey Guys!
Sorry for the late reply- its been a bit hectic.

So- I ordered a cheap hall sensor (PN 54347190735) and placed it between the power supply(pin 16) and signal input (pin 3).
I had to de-pin the brown wire going into pin 3 for this to work.

No Bongs/roof errors!

I was able to get the roof up but couldn't find any breaks in the hall sensor wire.

I then probed the de-pinned pin 3 and saw 12 volts on the pin- according to Robbi this meant the wires were shorting due to a crack.
While working on the right side hall sensor, the left side switch on the rear shell also threw a code!

Similar to the hall sensor, the microswitch had a short due to cracks in the wire.

The cracks for the switch were at the pinch point where most of our wires break.

I replaced the wiring on every switch/hall sensor in the rear roof shell with Silicone Cover Stranded-Core Wire from Adafruit- this stuff is SUPER flexible.

Its been 2 days and the roof has been operating without any issues.

Thank you guys for the help!
 
Perfect! Thanks for your feedback.

As next challenge, you have to learn, how to properly dismantle the rear roof shell . With learning this, you'll be able to stabilize the hydraulic hoses as well by taping it with "Cellpack 72".

ALL of our hydraulic hoses are broken as well on their black outer shell.
ALL!

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