Coolant flush at 14k miles but 20 years old?

Warrenwood

Warrenwood

Member
Hello, all!

My Z4 (E85 3.0i) is 20 years old, but only has 14,800 miles. It's time to replace the battery, and I'm thinking about other proactive maintenance I should do for longevity. The coolant is original to the vehicle. Normally after 40,000 miles or so, the cooling system needs a refresh and a lot of coolant is replaced. Not in my case :), and I'm concerned about the coolant deteriorating.

Should I do a coolant flush? The only mechanic available to me is the BMW dealership, and they are reluctant, trotting out the "lifetime fluid" sales pitch. But they've quoted me a price.

Thanks!
 
I was always of the impression coolant should be changed every 5 years, and that only the diff and gearbox fluid is classed as lifetime but would also benefit from been changed
 
Well welcome to the forum. :thumbsup:

Regardless of mileage I think I would want fresh coolant after 20 years!
 
BMW specify 2 year coolant change intervals.

That dealer sounds like utter trash. Buy tools and do it yourself. Only use G48 type coolant.
 
Its a complex area in part because over time the enviromental impact issues means some recommendations change..eg G48 no longer recommended due to it containing nitrates....also in service experience shows both ok and not so good issues which then get addressed with service updates..

For your engine there is no specified time limit for a change accordiing to BMW's current service instructions, however a regular check on its properties is suggested..but no actual date proferred.

These BMW specs are current..

BMW Lifetime Coolant xx" or alternatively "BMW LC-xx

A coolant flush is no bad thing..however if the original coolant when drained looks in good condition the case for a flush will be proven..
 
Age has crept up on me also so I purchased on those those manual suction gadgets that allow me to get oil out via the dipstick. Works really well so I tried it on the coolant via the header cap. It only sucks out around a litre or so but I figured if I do it regularly I am refreshing on a continual bases. It saves all the faff involved in getting all the air out the system.
 
I'm in the same predicament....
Just bought an '05 (20yo), yet it only just clicked over 20K miles. I'll probably change out the coolant just for GP, that way I'm starting fresh.
I've already changed out all the other fluids, and a brake system flush is scheduled for next week.
Sidenote: the whole "Lifetime" fluid fill these manufacturers tout is a joke.... unless "Lifetime" refers to the duration of the first owner! 🤣
 
From TIS for "Radiator antifreeze and corrosion inhibitor, nitrite-free (BMW LC-87)":

Enclosure 4 to SI 17 01 96 (140), edition 08/2023​


With the protection of the environment in mind, BMW has been filling all of its vehicles with nitrite- and amino-free antifreeze and corrosion inhibitors since mid-1986 as standard practice.
The use of antifreeze and corrosion inhibitors that contain nitrites and amines is no longer permissible.
Notice:​

For an overview about the use of coolant, see technically suitable antifreeze and corrosion inhibitors.​
The mixture ratio with water is 1:1. This provides antifreeze protection down to -40°C.
The nitrite-free radiator anti-freeze and corrosion inhibitor is blue in colour.

Trade nameBMW part number EU/ROWBMW part number RUSSBMW part number JPNBMW part number AUSBMW part number CHNBMW part number US/CANContainer sizeColour
Nitrite-free radiator anti-freeze and corrosion inhibitor83 51 5 A6CDD783 51 5 A6CDE483 51 5 A6CDE183 51 5 A6CDE383 19 2 467 4861.5-litre canblue
Nitrite-free radiator anti-freeze and corrosion inhibitor83 51 5 A6CDD860 litre barrelblue
Nitrite-free radiator anti-freeze and corrosion inhibitor83 51 5 A6CDD9205 litre barrelblue
Nitrite-free radiator anti-freeze and corrosion inhibitor82 14 0 031 1331-gallon canisterblue
Nitrite-free radiator anti-freeze and corrosion inhibitor82 14 1 467 7041-gallon canisterblue
Trade nameManufacturer/Supplier
AD Original AD 48AD Parts, S.L.
AlpineC48Mitan Mineralöl GmbH
Antifreeze HD G11 KLukoil Lubricants Europe GmbH
Aral Antifreeze ExtraAral AG
AVIA Antifreeze APNAVIA Mineralöl AG
AWM G11Tosol-Sintez
BMW AntifreezeBMW AG
Engmans Super Antifreeze and CoolantUnico Manufacturing
Glycostar ST48Kuttenkeuler GmbH
GLYSANTIN® G48®BASF series introduction
Kuttenkeuler Antifreeze ANF KK48Kuttenkeuler GmbH
LUKOIL COOLANT PLUSLukoil Lubricants Europe GmbH
MAINTAIN FRICOFINFuchs Europe Schmierstoffe GmbH
Radiocool NFCastrol International
Zerex G48®Valvoline
Valvoline OEM Advanced 48Valvoline
Click to expand...
 
I use Prestone universal, ready to use coolant on all of my cars, have done for years. It works very well and there are no worries on which car takes which fluid, I've never come across any internal corrosion on any of the engines regardless of what it's made of and even better it's quite often on offer at Tesco. If you have any doubt, then do it anyway and you can't be wrong.
 
Nick W said:
I use Prestone universal, ready to use coolant on all of my cars, have done for years. It works very well and there are no worries on which car takes which fluid, I've never come across any internal corrosion on any of the engines regardless of what it's made of and even better it's quite often on offer at Tesco. If you have any doubt, then do it anyway and you can't be wrong.
Click to expand...
I would 100% recommend against using a universal.

I got 5 L G48 spec concentrate for £24.99. BMW OE was about £13 for 1.5 L - so £30 for a full change. Not really worth the risk in my mind.

Prestone do a blue G48 version, which I'd consider over anything universal.

All still probably better than the pink crap that had been put into my 5 series. Brown came out. Idiots.
 
Mike6 said:
Age has crept up on me also so I purchased on those those manual suction gadgets that allow me to get oil out via the dipstick. Works really well so I tried it on the coolant via the header cap. It only sucks out around a litre or so but I figured if I do it regularly I am refreshing on a continual bases. It saves all the faff involved in getting all the air out the system.
Click to expand...
That's a very interesting thought, but I'm not sure it would help with sediment collecting in the bottom of the radiator.
 
Im going to do mine on the 2 litre, 81000 miles and 20 years old, not too sure if its ever been done. Ill get a vaccum filler though as apparently the N46s are bstds to bleed..

I would as a matter of course flush the system aswell.
 
TIMMOS29 said:
Im going to do mine on the 2 litre, 81000 miles and 20 years old, not too sure if its ever been done. Ill get a vaccum filler though as apparently the N46s are bstds to bleed..

I would as a matter of course flush the system aswell.
Click to expand...
Vacuum method works VERY well!
 

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TIMMOS29 said:
Never looked into how its done though is it easy enough, I have a 2 litre..
Click to expand...
Super easy!
The device uses a "Venturi Effect". By attaching shop air (a compressor), the device creates a vacuum in the previously drained system which evacuates all air in the system (all your coolant hoses will flatten due to the system under vacuum). You can then test for leaks by closing the valve and removing the compressed air source. The vacuum should hold displaying a leak free system. You then connect the fill tube submerged in your new coolant (pre-priming that tube is best to not introduce air). Open valves, and new coolant is drawn into the system.

I've had this (Uview Airlift 550000) for about 10 years. I've used it multiple times on multiple cars, always without the need to bleed or purge air out.
There are several brands available. I like the solid brass construction of this particular model.
 
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