100k+ z4mc - expected expenses

Hey all

So I’m toying with the idea of buying a 100k miler z4mc instead of the z4c.

Ignoring the obvious service items as brake discs and pads, tyres and oil changes, what major expenses can I be expecting, such as clutch or engine bits or anything else I’m not aware off? And what kind of cost would I be looking at for fixes?

I’m cool with accepting the tax and fuel expense, but just want to be sure I’m not going beyond what I can afford.

Cheers

I'd definitely get the Rod bearing shells changed, as a preventative measure at over 100k. Mine were in pretty good nick when changed at 107k, but I got it out of the way, costs about £1K, but better than a new engine if the worst were to happen.

Is that parts and labour? And from an indie or bmw

shuey said:

Is that parts and labour? And from an indie or bmw

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That's parts and labour, all in from an indie. Not sure what BMW charge but it's more than that.

Not many Z4M's with over 100k on here. Take a look around the E46 M3 Forums for more feedback on high milage S54's.

Rod bearings and that's about it.

I have lots of friends with 150k+ S54's that are track cars that take some serious abuse. Head gasket can be an issue, but it's not common.

Adam

Diff (£3k) can become noisy, although mine was exacerbated by the shunt to the rear wheel @ 145k miles. Had one under warranty at 75k miles too, and the dealer said 100,000 miles was about the max for them.

Clutch & flywheel (£1k-£3k depending on dealer/indy/genuine/OEM parts) - mine worked one day, no sign of failure, and then just failed @ 140k miles.

Suspension, if original, will be well past it’s best - budget £1k+ for OE stuff, or £2k for adjustable KW or Bilstein.

Preventatively, I’ve replaced the whole cooling system at about 110k as it seemed to be getting hotter than normal (by about 10°c) - total for that was about £1k.

I’ve also replaced the OE anti-roll bars as they were getting a bit crummy (£250).

Other than invoices for regular maintenance and recent consumables (tyres, discs, pads, bushes, mounts, etc.), that’s about it.

After all that, I consider my car to be in as good a mechanical condition as one of much lesser miles, and probably better than some at half the miles with all original parts.

bradz said:

Rod bearings and that's about it.

I have lots of friends with 150k+ S54's that are track cars that take some serious abuse. Head gasket can be an issue, but it's not common.

Adam

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Agreed, we have a 150k+ mile M3 racing with us which has competed in two 24 hour races and two seasons of CSCC racing and is an original, unopened S54!

As an owner of a 118k mile Z4MC, I would look out for corroded brake calipers / sticky calipers requiring a refurbishment and tired suspension requiring replacement.

Mine is on the original rod bearings, I will probably do it on the next inspection 2 in 7k miles for peace of mind.

Engine bolts worth replacing. Engine mounts are rubber most probably perished.

Thanks guys, sounds like there’s potentially a good 2k-3k dependant on car condition etc.
Think I might have to do the sensible thing and wait for another year before I go for the M and get the z4 c for now

shuey said:

Thanks guys, sounds like there’s potentially a good 2k-3k dependant on car condition etc.
Think I might have to do the sensible thing and wait for another year before I go for the M and get the z4 c for now

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Why?

A 90k mile car won’t be much less likely to require the same repairs as a 100k car.

You just have to weigh up what’s already been done vs what might need doing in 1/2/3 years depending on your usage.

I’d rather buy a 110k mile car that’s had recent suspension, brakes, tyres, inspection than a 90k mile one needing it all doing in the next 6 months.

Around 100k i'd say you need to be looking at: Engine and Gearbox Mounts, replace Rod Bearings, refresh Vanos, Valve Clearance adjustment.. a bit later down the road you may need to check out suspension bits and bobs...

Yeh it’s more to do with my budget at mo. I’ll be kinda stretching myself a little if I went for the Z4M and it’ll have to be a high miler (can’t really go over £15k) and at the price it’s prob unlikely I’ll find one with that’s had all the work done. Plus if I wait a year I can up my budget by another 5k and get something with a significantly lower mileage (I know mileage isn’t as important as service history).

So Z4C for now

My Z4MR is on 113k miles. Will get the rod bearings done soon - have been quoted just over £1k all in from an Indy.

It's going in next week to have the front to rear brake pipes replaced as they are corroded and to have a broken exhaust mounting fixed. That will be about £900 all in.

I bought the car 4 years' ago and the only non-servicing cost was getting the roof motor replaced with a refurbed one and moved into the boot. That was about £300. So by my calculations, even when I have spent the next £2k or so, I am still ahead, on the basis that the lack of depreciation has more than offset the costs.

Plus the Zed makes me happy, which is priceless!

This is the age old problem that the car may "seem" cheap but once you've spent 3-5k on it you could be in a 60-70k car and not see that money back anyway although its easier to move on.

On the other hand a lot of the issues are age related anyway, mounts, suspension etc they wear out but have life spans too. Regardless of the milage you cant get away from the fact that what ever car you buy will need attention simply because they are 10-12 years old.

At the same time the likelyhood of all these things needing doing at once is silly and really it will depend on each car. A low mileage car could end up costing as much as a higher mileage because it has sat but who knows.

The only way to know is to go through the documentation and get a pre purchase inspection so you know what your in for, or stuff that needs immediate attention.

You could get into a 50-60k 3.0si for 10-12k and the other consumables are far cheaper tax, insurance, service, brakes etc and it offers 90% of the M on the road. The M is special and the sum of its parts to me is worth it. For far less the 3.0si is the best compromise on a budget will allow great motoring they are unlikely to go down in value and gives time to move up to an M later down the line.

Both could end up costing similar with issues. The 3.0si are the same age but that 3-4k difference could pretty much sort everything you could think of and cost less to run.

The M costs money to look after consumables and service is far more expensive but find a good one with recent work and your laughing really they are super reliable. With all consumables done you could have 2 years free motoring.

Everything listed so far is worst case, consumables first figure the rest out in time. 15k might be a stretch but not unachievable.

Yeh I hear ya.

I’ve always wanted the m version, and to be honest I only started considering the m once I realised u can get one for 15k.

But u make a good point about the 3.0 - any issues that I do have, I can fix and have a flawless z4c3.0, versus the m which I should know there will be the odd expense here and there.

So yeh I think M, is more about when I buy it, rather than if. But I think I’d regret rushing to buy the cheapest M.