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**** The Definitive Rattles Cure Guide ****

Location - underneath the car (E86 and possible E85?)
Issue - rattingling noise when driving over bad roads or speed bumps at low speeds.
Problem - handbrake cable fouling against the chassis
Solution - Re-route and re-fasten cable..
 
Location: beneath the centre of the car (?///M only)
Issue: rather annoying metallic rattle at specific engine speeds, typically idle
Problem: corrosion around cat heat shield +/- speed hump inflicted trauma leads to loosening of the heat shield
Solution: get your friendly local Indy to weld it when the car is in for a service
 
Any idea on how to cure a rattle / cracking noise above the drivers head in the plastic covering the roof lock mechanism?
 
The drivers seat creaks/groans, is not touching anywhere so isnt fouled. I've greased what little of the mechanism is visible including the springs. It feels more like the back side bolsters need tightening...?

Sent from my HTC One X
 
T2FFN said:
The drivers seat creaks/groans, is not touching anywhere so isnt fouled. I've greased what little of the mechanism is visible including the springs. It feels more like the back side bolsters need tightening...?

Sent from my HTC One X
Click to expand...

I get this one too, really annoying!
 
bluestreak56 said:
Location - underneath the car (E86 and possible E85?)
Issue - rattingling noise when driving over bad roads or speed bumps at low speeds.
Problem - handbrake cable fouling against the chassis
Solution - Re-route and re-fasten cable..
Click to expand...

That could be the source of my annoying ( but only over larger bumps or very uneven roads ) rattle .
Its almost lhe noise you would get if the tailgate wasn't latched properly .
I had the broken rear spring done recently but noise still there on occasions , passengers don't here it but i sure do :headbang:
gonna phone my trusted tech tomorrow & sound him out :thumbsup:
 
corsaire77 said:
Another element that can an audible as a deep in-dash rattle or a steering column rattle is located above the pedal cover.

1) Remove the cover for pedals
- unscrew three screws and pull

2)
Look deep inside, follow the steering column - you will see a metal element and a plastic box behind it. It is the plastic box that rattles against the metal element. Secure it with double-sided tape.
2012-05-09%252015.28.11.jpg


3)
While you're there down under, take a look at the clip securing a wire harness. It tends to be loose and constitute a possible rattle source. Can be secured with the tape.
2012-05-09%252013.49.21.jpg


4) Reattach the cover for pedals. While doing that, you can also stabilise the lower vent. It tends to jump out of the socket in the pedal cover and hit a metal part above.

Enjoy your rattle-free Zed!
Click to expand...

Is it possible to reupload the images?
 
Bing said:
Bing said:
Stromtech said:
Annoying squeak behind your head when the hood is down.
It' could be caused by the center panel above the storage compartment:

http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=389322
Click to expand...

I have this squeak !! Been driving me mad so I'm delighted there is a fix... Except the key pic showing exactly what to do where is missing :headbang:

Guess I'll just have to figure it out myself :?
Click to expand...

Right, I think I have solved this squeak, posting here to complete my contribution with a description and a picture.

So I have done some felting of the centre trim - just used some A4 black sticky-backed felt I got from a craft shop called Hobbycraft. I have put felt :

Where the OEM felt strip was at the top of the trim, but made it larger
All the way down the edges, thin strips (fiddly...)
Under both ends of the springs of the soft-top release handle
Round the spindles of the handle
On the top and bottom edges of where the handle touches the trim ; also very thin strips right along the edge of the handle door at the sides where there was a little obiousl catching / rubbing
On the plastic vanes that push on the latch release mechanism

I also bent the springs back to more of a 'v' so they exert more pressure.

Pic below, with arrows showing most of the locations :

IMG-20130102-00102.jpg


You may consider this excessive, but I really cannot work out exactly where the squeak is coming from, so I went belt and braces... I have a horrible feeling it may be coming from the mechanism itself, which I tried to get out but failed... I took two screws out then couldn't work out what else to do

I have been for a short drive with the roof down on a bouncy road that has always provoked the mouse squeak previously and it appears to have worked... Will report back if that changes over time :thumbsup:
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Nice one Bing I've just attacked mine with sticky felt after having a flock of budgies on my left ear all yesterday, it was driving me nuts! Silence no more tweet, tweet :thumbsup:
 
Front left and right air vents + cupholders

Yesterday I've had enough of nasty rattles and mostly squeaks of front driver and passenger air vents. Squaking all the time. So I decided do throw them in the bin if the squakynessss wouldn't be solved.
You'll need ~15minutes time per side, 1 small flat screw driver, one philips screwdriver and lithium spray.

1. Remove the protective screw cap with small flat screwdriver on top of the phillips screw.
2. Undo the second screw; you open the cup holder to get access.
Mark the screws. Although same length one of them is thinner.
3. Gently pull out the whole vent and cup holder assembly.
Here a video (not mine):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ne4Yb_Ud5n0

4. Take a look at the back of the vents. There are a few plastic pieces hot pressed together. If you GENTLY twist the air vent you'll hear the demons squeaking.
5. Take the demon deporter (Lithium grease spay) and spray sparingly on the edges where different plastic pieces meet together.
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fvbm89.jpg

If you pay a bit of attention when lubing you won't get any grease overspray on the front side of the vent.

6. Install the vent back in place (it fits easily) and screw two screws back in. Be sure not to mix the two screws. But if you do you'll feel one isn't screwing in.
7. Pop the rubber screw covers back on
8. Use a damp cloth or some trim cleaner to wipe the vent down and enjoy the ride. (Well now you'll probably hear more other squeaks and rattles :D )
9. (optional) Repeat on the other side.
 
chrisba said:
Any idea on how to cure a rattle / cracking noise above the drivers head in the plastic covering the roof lock mechanism?
Click to expand...

I know it an old post but I got some silicone spray and sprayed in all the joints around the windscreen inner trim. Ie around the roof lock holes and it's stopped the creaking going over uneven surfaces.
 
Rob_benton said:
chrisba said:
Any idea on how to cure a rattle / cracking noise above the drivers head in the plastic covering the roof lock mechanism?
Click to expand...

I know it an old post but I got some silicone spray and sprayed in all the joints around the windscreen inner trim. Ie around the roof lock holes and it's stopped the creaking going over uneven surfaces.
Click to expand...

Have used the same in the past, it doesn't require much to elimate the rattles and a cheap as chips fix :thumbsup:
 
Hi guys, I already posted about this rattle in the Problems zone... My lock buttons on the doors are rattling, any cure for this?
 
Problem: hissing and knocking sound when hard cornering. Only when luggage curtain is out.

Location: from the luggage area.

Fault: some (@&##) piece has come loose inside the curtain mechanism, sliding loudly on the axle by the slightest of cornering force.

Solution: buy a new curtain assembly, replace.
 
cappo said:
Hi guys, I already posted about this rattle in the Problems zone... My lock buttons on the doors are rattling, any cure for this?
Click to expand...

Put some black heat shrink over and heat it up so it grips tightly. As its rubberised it will remove the hard plastic on plastic rattle.
 
Hi, I have quite a loud knocking coming from behind the steering column in front of the instruments binnacle. Any ideas?
 
T2FFN said:
Put some black heat shrink over and heat it up so it grips tightly. As its rubberised it will remove the hard plastic on plastic rattle.
Click to expand...

Do you need to use a heat gun to shrink it? If so how do you protect the rest of the door area from the heat? Or, do you just remove the door panel so you have access to the pin with the heat gun?
 
There is a little trim piece that has a friction piece inside it to keep the door look from moving around. You can replace that trim in 30 seconds instead of using a heat gun and heat shrink tubing.
 
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