How To - Steering Wheel Spoke Refurbishment

srhutch

Lifer
Product used from this refurbishment was Plastidip, a rubberised spray paint.

If your steering wheel is starting to look like this with the rubberised coating wearing off by the wheel and chunks missing this how to will show you how to sort it out and have it looking like new.

smooth/shiney spoke at edge of wheel and scratched and smooth/shiney around MFSW pod.
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Scratches clearly visible.
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First off disconnect the battery and allow 30 minutes before moving onto next step. This is to ensure the airbag is not fired accidentally.

Remove the airbag as per instructions below

http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/08/15/34

Then remove the four torx screws, one on each side spoke and two on the bottom one. The fixings on the bottom one on mine snapped off and I seem to recall Ranski mentioning this before so seems to be a weak point, some super glue soon sorted that out though.

I wasn't sure how I was going to remove the scratches but luckily using IPA and rubbing with some pressure removed more of the existing coating allowing the scratched to be removed and feathering in the remaining coating. You could remove all if required, but that will take a long time and I can't see any benefit in doing so. At this stage you don't want to be able to feel the difference in the area that changes from one finish to the other.

Ensure you IPA all spokes to remove any oils, just rub lightly any that don't have any scratches.

Spoke ready for Painting.
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The are four torx screws on the back of each MFSW pod, remove these and you can extract the smaller of the two switches and also two little inserts. These only fit one way so check before removal (it is obvious though). Mask up the remaining switch and prep with IPA.

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I covered the ///M badge with a bit of blue 3M masking tape and taking a new blade carefully cut out as below. It's best to use you finger to indent the tape as much as possible to help see where you need to cut. Take your time with this as you don't want to slip and scratch either the badge or spoke.
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The rear spokes were heavily scratched and although I couldn't see or feel them it was worth doing them as they were off the car.
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Spray following instruction on can. I did 3-4 coats allowing 30 minutes between each and a couple of hours after the last one before fitting. If you plan on driving the car I would allow longer before fitting to ensure fully set. Only apply thin costs, but if it does go wrong don't panic, let it dry and then peel it off.

I had one part that after the 1st coat I noticed a scratch I hadn't IPA'd enough. Using IPA I was easy able to remove the spray 30 minutes after the first coat.


Finished left spoke and MFSW pod
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Close up of ///M badge after finishing.
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Fitting back in the car
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Job done :D
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It took me 24 hours in total, but if you can spray all the bits on one go you could do it in 6 hours or so. I did mine in 3 batches due to space limitations.

Only outstanding question is how well it will stand up to use. As my car is only used at weekend it may last for many years, hopefully somebody who uses their Z4 daily will do it soon and we will have a benchmark. If it doesn't hold up though I will try some acrylic Matt Black spray next time.
 
Great write-up srhutch :thumbsup:

Time & delivery of goods permitting I'll do mine next weekend and post some pics for those of us with flappy paddles...

EDIT - I also use mine daily so can report back on wear as and when :driving:
 
Got all the required kit for this, gonna try and fit it in around other more boring stuff on Sunday. Watch out for the 'Where do I buy a new airbag' thread halfway through the day :lol:

Question - what did you use to do the IPA rub srhutch ? A soft cloth, or cotton wool pads ?
 
You'll be fine Bing, only two extra screws (for the paddles) to remove, otherwise same procedure as mine.

Done my other grill now so just need to fit at the weekend. Will also try and take some daylight photos to post up to give people a better idea.
 
Thanks for the write-up. My wheel is in good condition as I bought a MFSW last year but might use this for some other bits on the car.
 
I am doing mine right now - not quite as smooth as I expected yet, so I think I'll put the third coat on in a bit, leave overnight to cure, then give all the bits a gentle rub with IPA before the last coat in the morning. Could be my technique though, or trying to do all the bits at once :oops:
 
I did mine a week or so ago. I'm getting quite good with the plasti dip now as I've sprayed my gixxer k7 in the stuff for a bat-bike stealth look.

It can mark easily, and the 'sheen' changes with use, so I don't think it will last all that long without needing redoing or removing. One area of my steering wheel spoke has a slightly duller finish, from being used/rubbed more often. Not sure if a damp wash would return the finish, not tried yet.


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Hmmm. I have a spray can of clear coat left over from a time when I thought I might do some bumper scuffs on my old focus... Do you think a coat of that would help preserve it if the coating doesn't last, or will it just look sh1t ?
 
It will look like crap. Plasti dip is a great product, like I say my bike is done with the stuff, and when it looks worn you can simply spray another coat ontop or peel it off.

If you like the way it looks Matt black, use real spray paint. This stuff let's you see it, if you don't like it black you can peel it off no harm done.


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Cool - leaving it alone now :D

I like the rubbery feel, hopefully the final coat in the morning will do the trick.
 
The texture is dependent on distance of spray when applied. It needs to be consistent on every coat, the top coat will not smooth out rougher earlier coats. About 5-6inches gives a nice finish. Even after leaving overnight, it will be touch dry but will really 'cure' after being in a hot car. You can tell when it's REALLY cured as the slight tackiness will be gone, even though it's dry it feels different.


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