>

Drop links for KWV 3's...?

As per title, can anyone recommend the best drop links to fit with KW's street coil overs please...? At the moment I'm staying with OEM roll bar bushes, but may fit Superflex at some point.
 
Do the KWs have adjustable mounting tabs for the droplinks?

I'm sure oe will absolutely fine unless you're planning a massive drop in ride height vs standard?
 
Ed Doe said:
Do the KWs have adjustable mounting tabs for the droplinks?

I'm sure oe will absolutely fine unless you're planning a massive drop in ride height vs standard?

No they're static mounts Ed, not going too low either, in fact no more than 5-10mm max.
 
john-e89 said:
Ed Doe said:
Do the KWs have adjustable mounting tabs for the droplinks?

I'm sure oe will absolutely fine unless you're planning a massive drop in ride height vs standard?

No they're static mounts Ed, not going too low either, in fact no more than 5-10mm max.

I'd bang the oe ones on and not worry too much personally! :)
 
Ed Doe said:
john-e89 said:
Ed Doe said:
Do the KWs have adjustable mounting tabs for the droplinks?

I'm sure oe will absolutely fine unless you're planning a massive drop in ride height vs standard?

No they're static mounts Ed, not going too low either, in fact no more than 5-10mm max.

I'd bang the oe ones on and not worry too much personally! :)

Cheers Ed, I'll go with that, not wanting the car to be too hardcore. :thumbsup:
 
Irrelevant really if ride height is in the realms of normality. Unless you're corner weighting it, but even then they're a bit debatable, you'll pre load one side of the bar usually slightly, does it make a difference, I doubt it.
 
TomK said:
Irrelevant really if ride height is in the realms of normality. Unless you're corner weighting it, but even then they're a bit debatable, you'll pre load one side of the bar usually slightly, does it make a difference, I doubt it.

True enough Tom. :thumbsup:
 
Turner Motorsport sells a drop link that comes in multiple lengths, is adjustable and uses a high quality ball joint - https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-339009-e28-e30-e34-e36-e39-e46-e9x-mz3-z4-turner-motorsport-adjustable-front-sway-bar-end-links-pair/?pdk=AQ

The adjustable end links will also help to dial out preload on the bar.
 
Slideways said:
Turner Motorsport sells a drop link that comes in multiple lengths, is adjustable and uses a high quality ball joint - https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-339009-e28-e30-e34-e36-e39-e46-e9x-mz3-z4-turner-motorsport-adjustable-front-sway-bar-end-links-pair/?pdk=AQ

The adjustable end links will also help to dial out preload on the bar.

Cheers Slide, going to order a set of those. :thumbsup: :driving:
 
201 dollars plus shipping plus import duties for a set of droplinks!? Jesus christ.

John don't bother mate, you don't need them!
 
Ed Doe said:
201 dollars plus shipping plus import duties for a set of droplinks!? Jesus christ.

John don't bother mate, you don't need them!

When installing adjustable suspension, one should plan on corner balancing and dialing out sway bar preload; otherwise, the suspension modifications will be suboptimal. If it were not for the shorter KW endlinks, one adjustable endlink would be enough to dial out preload.
 
Slideways said:
Ed Doe said:
201 dollars plus shipping plus import duties for a set of droplinks!? Jesus christ.

John don't bother mate, you don't need them!

When installing adjustable suspension, one should plan on corner balancing and dialing out sway bar preload; otherwise, the suspension modifications will be suboptimal. If it were not for the shorter KW endlinks, one adjustable endlink would be enough to dial out preload.

Oh christ, and I can well imagine that would make a difference to the handling dynamic of a car never driven on track. Come on mate I totally understand why adjustable droplinks are useful, but if the op isn't corner weighting the car, or racking the car, it's not exactly any use is it?
 
Ed Doe said:
Slideways said:
Ed Doe said:
201 dollars plus shipping plus import duties for a set of droplinks!? Jesus christ.

John don't bother mate, you don't need them!

When installing adjustable suspension, one should plan on corner balancing and dialing out sway bar preload; otherwise, the suspension modifications will be suboptimal. If it were not for the shorter KW endlinks, one adjustable endlink would be enough to dial out preload.

Oh christ, and I can well imagine that would make a difference to the handling dynamic of a car never driven on track. Come on mate I totally understand why adjustable droplinks are useful, but if the op isn't corner weighting the car, or racking the car, it's not exactly any use is it?

I'd thought you might be able to feel the adjustments on the road, but I've never used adjustable ones tbh.
 
john-e89 said:
Ed Doe said:
Slideways said:
When installing adjustable suspension, one should plan on corner balancing and dialing out sway bar preload; otherwise, the suspension modifications will be suboptimal. If it were not for the shorter KW endlinks, one adjustable endlink would be enough to dial out preload.

Oh christ, and I can well imagine that would make a difference to the handling dynamic of a car never driven on track. Come on mate I totally understand why adjustable droplinks are useful, but if the op isn't corner weighting the car, or racking the car, it's not exactly any use is it?

I'd thought you might be able to feel the adjustments on the road, but I've never used adjustable ones tbh.

What are you expecting to feel?

If you corner weight the car, you'll find the suspension may be a slightly different height across the axle. By using adjustable droplinks (or by buying coilovers with adjustable droplink mounting points like intrax for instance), you will effectively then be able to dial out any consequential pre-load on the arb. Will the preload be minimal? Yes. Will you feel that on the road? Very unlikely (imo).

It's just my opinion, for sure do what you feel is right for you, but honestly I would say adjustable droplinks are a waste of time and money unless you're tracking the car and therefore fully corner weighting it after fitting the suspension. If you're just lowering the car a bit and wanting the ride height to be visually equal across the axle then I'd not worry at all.

Just touching on your point regarding droplink length, if you drop the ride height you're effectively lowering the chassis relative to the mounting point on the damper. So the angle between the droplink and the arb will change, and this will affect the effective 'spring rate' of the arb. By reducing the length of the droplink, you bring the arb angle relative to the droplink back to the oe angle, so the rate becomes the same as oe again. Ultimately this is stuff that matters if you're chasing tenths on track - I honestly wouldn't worry a jot for road use.
 
Ed Doe said:
john-e89 said:
Ed Doe said:
Oh christ, and I can well imagine that would make a difference to the handling dynamic of a car never driven on track. Come on mate I totally understand why adjustable droplinks are useful, but if the op isn't corner weighting the car, or racking the car, it's not exactly any use is it?

I'd thought you might be able to feel the adjustments on the road, but I've never used adjustable ones tbh.

What are you expecting to feel?

If you corner weight the car, you'll find the suspension may be a slightly different height across the axle. By using adjustable droplinks (or by buying coilovers with adjustable droplink mounting points like intrax for instance), you will effectively then be able to dial out any consequential pre-load on the arb. Will the preload be minimal? Yes. Will you feel that on the road? Very unlikely (imo).

It's just my opinion, for sure do what you feel is right for you, but honestly I would say adjustable droplinks are a waste of time and money unless you're tracking the car and therefore fully corner weighting it after fitting the suspension. If you're just lowering the car a bit and wanting the ride height to be visually equal across the axle then I'd not worry at all.

Just touching on your point regarding droplink length, if you drop the ride height you're effectively lowering the chassis relative to the mounting point on the damper. So the angle between the droplink and the arb will change, and this will affect the effective 'spring rate' of the arb. By reducing the length of the droplink, you bring the arb angle relative to the droplink back to the oe angle, so the rate becomes the same as oe again. Ultimately this is stuff that matters if you're chasing tenths on track - I honestly wouldn't worry a jot for road use.

No that all makes sense Ed, I'm not going to track it, I don't want it much lower than standard either, I'll stick with OE, thanks for the more detailed insight than I was aware of. :thumbsup:
 
I used adjustable drop links with mine only because the OEM drop links are not compatible with the combination of KW Clubsports / H&R ARBs.
 
lol, def dont need corner balance for the road.. hell even on track sometimes.. prob spend the cash elsewhere...
 
john-e89 said:
I'd thought you might be able to feel the adjustments on the road, but I've never used adjustable ones tbh.
If you're the sort of person who can tell the difference in the way a car handles when it's full of fuel versus half empty, or when you change tyre pressures by 2 psi, you might be able to notice. Most people can't.
 
Back
Top Bottom