Rocker cover & oil filter housing leaks - thoughts on what to address?

axelleveau said:
[ref]j24[/ref] it looks like we got to the same point! I also removed my beauty cover this weeked and found this:IMG_20230211_151217.jpg
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I am now also wondering about changing the entire cover rather than buying main gasket+valvetronic actuator gasket+eccentric shaft sensor gasket. Is there a replaceable gasket for the oil filler?
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Ah damn - I guess at least it's good to know we're not alone!! Looks very very similar to the leak I've got at the moment, but less messy than mine!

Not sure re the gasket for the oil filler... but assuming a new cover would come with a new oil filler gasket.
 
Brouse said:
1536Z4 said:
Brouse said:
Prob worth doing CCV
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CCV is built into the valve cover and is sealed . If there is a problem withh CCV it is a new cover or you have to saw off the CCV cap and replace with an aftermarket item . This will give you an idea https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ml_H04ztl3E
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Oh damn sorry yes blacktop has it integrated!

In that case might be worth doing the cover and gaskets along with any compromised gaskets.
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Yep... ironically was thinking of going for a new cover to cover off any problems with the CCV in the future... hadn't thought it might actually be the problem now.

But yes, thinking I'll go for a new rocker cover plus gaskets to be on the safe side. The big question I have is whether the Elring cover will be a decent replacement.

It's obviously OEM and a decent brand - so thinking it should be a good-quality part. And sounds like the gaskets will be okay, but I can't find many posts online about people who have installed an Elring cover, so that's giving me a little bit of hesitation!

It's probably either the Elring or the genuine BMW one - which is £245 more than the Elring cover (both come with new gaskets, bolts etc)...

Even if the Elring lasts half as long as the genuine OE BMW cover, it's still cheaper to buy two Elring covers. Not that I'd want to of course - I'd much rather buy the one that would last the longest, but hard to see how the Elring can be a bad purchase with that sort of price difference.

Thoughts/comments are definitely welcome. Particularly if anyone has any experience with the Elring/Febi rocker covers!
 
I've had similar leaks on my 2.5 2006. Mine has the earlier metal valve cover, so replaced the valve cover gasket, valvetronic motor gasket and the gasket round the eccentric shaft sensor. I had a garage do this as two of the alloy bolts had already snapped and needed drilled out first. I have a separate CCV system which I also replaced myself and I did the oil filter housing gasket and oil cooler gasket too. The later plastic cover seems to have pros and cons, you have to replace the whole things but you can reuse the bolts. I believe the gasket can be replaced on it's own too, but think if I was doing it, I'd do the complete cover. Possibly check if there is any oil in the eccentric shaft sensor as might be easier to replace this at the same time if any sign of issues. I'd have thought a Elring or Febi cover would be decent enough quality to be a safe choice.

As knock on, my oil filter housing gasket and oil cooler leaks were pretty bad. So the drive belt was replaced due to contamination to be safe, as supposedly this can cause issues down the line with crank seals. I also replaced the water flange (mickey mouse type one) as it has been pretty soaked in oil. Gaskets were all Victor Reinz or Elring. Gates belt and water flange was ordered from Amazon. If doing the housing/cooler gaskets, check your oil pressure switch at same time as mine started leaking after I did the gaskets and easier to do while inlet manifold is off doing the gaskets than to remove again later.
 
Enigmatik said:
Possibly check if there is any oil in the eccentric shaft sensor as might be easier to replace this at the same time if any sign of issues. I'd have thought a Elring or Febi cover would be decent enough quality to be a safe choice.

As knock on, my oil filter housing gasket and oil cooler leaks were pretty bad. So the drive belt was replaced due to contamination to be safe, as supposedly this can cause issues down the line with crank seals. I also replaced the water flange (mickey mouse type one) as it has been pretty soaked in oil. Gaskets were all Victor Reinz or Elring. Gates belt and water flange was ordered from Amazon. If doing the housing/cooler gaskets, check your oil pressure switch at same time as mine started leaking after I did the gaskets and easier to do while inlet manifold is off doing the gaskets than to remove again later.
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Thanks - I couldn't see any oil in the eccentric shaft sensor, so hoping that will be okay for a little while longer. Fingers crossed that a new gasket will help prevent any oil leaking in.

Good call on getting a new drive belt whilst I'm looking at the oil filter/cooler gaskets - looks like the OE belt is a Continental Contitech V-ribbed belt, worth replacing whilst I'm there as a precaution. I've only seen videos on youtube replacing the oil filter/cooler gaskets without taking the manifold off, which will hopefully be a little easier for a mechanical newbie such as myself!!

Ahh interesting, I was wondering if it was worth replacing the 'mickey mouse' coolant flange - did you replace it with an aluminium one? I've seen a lot of no-name aftermarket aluminium ones on Amazon/eBay... do you remember which one you went for?

On the rocker cover front, I think I've decided that I'm going to take the plunge on the Elring rocker cover, which comes with new gaskets etc.

Oil filter/cooler wise, I think I'll stick with BMW OE as I'm just replacing the gaskets, just to be on the safe side.

This is all a bit of a jump in the deep end for me, so I'm pretty nervous about taking it on - but super thankful for all the help/tips I've received on the forum! I'll definitely give the rocker cover a go, and think I can manage that one. For some reason, the oil filter/cooler feels a little more daunting to me but I'll order the gaskets in anticipation that I'll take it on.

Anyway thanks again to everyone who's left a comment - the forum has been a brilliant resource for me these first three months!
 
"Good call on getting a new drive belt whilst I'm looking at the oil filter/cooler gaskets - looks like the OE belt is a Continental Contitech V-ribbed belt, worth replacing whilst I'm there as a precaution. I've only seen videos on youtube replacing the oil filter/cooler gaskets without taking the manifold off, which will hopefully be a little easier for a mechanical newbie such as myself!!"

Having done it without removing the inlet manifold, and then having removed the manifold to do CCV and oil pressure switch, for the price of a new set of inlet manifold gaskets and about 10/15 mins removing airbox, loosening hoses and the 4 bolts/3 nuts to undo the manifold. Save yourself the time and remove it. Gives you much more space and easier to torque it down after. The bolts on the cooler are a bit of a pain, there is a ball bit on the bolts for a cover for the oil cooler (mine is missing), however those balls made it hard to find a socket to fit. I got torx spanners to do it. Next time I'll just cut the ball bit off as I don't have the cover, I kind of don't see the point and be much easier to torque them back on. The bolt on the bottom of the oil filter housing is a pain to get to, again a spanner was used. I think if I'd done the flange at the same time and been less scared of disturbing stuff I could have got extensions from the bottom up to tighten it. Be prepared to bleed and lose skin and time you work at the front of the engine, there is not a lot of space between the engine and the brace behind the radiator.

"Ahh interesting, I was wondering if it was worth replacing the 'mickey mouse' coolant flange - did you replace it with an aluminium one? I've seen a lot of no-name aftermarket aluminium ones on Amazon/eBay... do you remember which one you went for?"

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08YTX22ZY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 is the one I went for but seems out of stock. To be honest, I can't see the expensive ones being so much better in quality, order history says I paid £12.50. The fibre/plastic one that came off was starting to break up so think probably was worth while, had no issues since.

"Oil filter/cooler wise, I think I'll stick with BMW OE as I'm just replacing the gaskets, just to be on the safe side."

I got the Elring ones for like £22 quid for both I think, so if BMW not much more, 6 of one

"This is all a bit of a jump in the deep end for me, so I'm pretty nervous about taking it on - but super thankful for all the help/tips I've received on the forum! I'll definitely give the rocker cover a go, and think I can manage that one. For some reason, the oil filter/cooler feels a little more daunting to me but I'll order the gaskets in anticipation that I'll take it on."

Check you have the right sockets etc that will fit, E12 female torx from memory and I'd have to check the bolts. Give yourself time, don't rush it, be methodical, take pics with your phone to give yourself reference. Better to have too many parts in case than not enough and worth doing oil change/filter and having coolant to top it up after. Try and keep everything clean and make sure nothing falls where it shouldn't. It's a good sense of accomplishment after.
 
So the new Elring rocker cover has arrived!

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Looking forward to getting on with the job, and have watched a few youtube videos on replacing it now.

Couple of stupid questions before I do get stuck in though...

1. Do I need to disconnect the battery before getting started?
2. Do I need to relearn the Valvetronic motor positions once I've installed the new cover? Have heard mixed things on whether it's necessary or not. And do I need a specific code reader for this, or can I do this via turning the ignition on/pedals etc?
3. If I do need a code reader to relearn the Valvetronic motor positions, will the Creator 310+ work for this?

Cheers all!
 
j24 said:
1. Do I need to disconnect the battery before getting started?

Yes just the negative . or atleast I did and would .

2. Do I need to relearn the Valvetronic motor positions once I've installed the new cover? Have heard mixed things on whether it's necessary or not. And do I need a specific code reader for this, or can I do this via turning the ignition on/pedals etc?

I have read that you just need to turn on the ignition . I did the 2nd position on the ignition and accelerator pedal with no issues . I have INPA but didn`t need it .

3. If I do need a code reader to relearn the Valvetronic motor positions, will the Creator 310+ work for this?

Shouldn`t need it . :thumbsup:
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1536Z4 said:
I have read that you just need to turn on the ignition . I did the 2nd position on the ignition and accelerator pedal with no issues . I have INPA but didn`t need it .
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Thanks for the reply! And good to know I don’t need code reader/scanner as I don’t currently have one (although probably should get one at some point)

From what I’ve read on other BMW forums, the ignition and pedal method is:

1. Switch the ignition onto position 2
2. Within a space of 15 seconds depress the accelerator pedal down to full throttle 10 times

But can’t seem to find much specific to the Z4. Does the above sound right/similar to what you did?

I’ve also read that just simply turning on the ignition to position two a couple of times for ten seconds will do the job…

A bit odd there seems to be a few different ways people swear by, I don’t mind which method as long as it works!! :lol:
 
Yea tricky one, I read that 08 cars onwards is just the ignition a couple of times method and pre-08 cars need the motor recalibrating via software/at a Indy.

Mine is an 06 and I took it to an Indy to get coded after replacing the valvetronic motor gasket etc and sure enough there was a code stating 'valvetronic operation slow or sluggish' or words to that effect. £30 for the trouble /piece of mind.

Could always call somewhere to check?
 
Brouse said:
Yea tricky one, I read that 08 cars onwards is just the ignition a couple of times method and pre-08 cars need the motor recalibrating via software/at a Indy.

Mine is an 06 and I took it to an Indy to get coded after replacing the valvetronic motor gasket etc and sure enough there was a code stating 'valvetronic operation slow or sluggish' or words to that effect. £30 for the trouble /piece of mind.

Could always call somewhere to check?
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Ah, The plot thickens! Didn’t realise it would be different for post 08 cars, I’ve got a 58 plate, so maybe the ignition method will work…

I guess I should be able to hear it doing it’s thing if it does reset/recalibrate with the ignition method… and if I can’t hear any sign that it’s resetting itself, then maybe you’re right about heading to a local indy!
 
j24 said:
1. Switch the ignition onto position 2
2. Within a space of 15 seconds depress the accelerator pedal down to full throttle 10 times
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This is the one I did and it worked fine but have read that that just turning ignition on and waiting works also . Mine is an 08 so much the same as yours . If you follow the procedure of using the allen key to wind the valvetronic in then it should reset without problem . Honestly once you have done it you will wonder what you were worrying about :thumbsup:
 
Should FINALLY get time to install the new rocker cover tomorrow, and think I have everything I need...

Just one more schoolboy question to ask…How best to properly clean the valve cover seal making surfaces?

Thinking a lint free cloth… but not sure about brake cleaner in that part of the engine?
 
j24 said:
brake cleaner in that part of the engine?
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I used brake cleaner sprayed onto a cloth and then wiped over . I had a couple of small areas on the cylinder head that were stubborn so I used a fine grade wet and dry paper and then wiped over again with brake cleaner .
 
1536Z4 said:
j24 said:
brake cleaner in that part of the engine?
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I used brake cleaner sprayed onto a cloth and then wiped over . I had a couple of small areas on the cylinder head that were stubborn so I used a fine grade wet and dry paper and then wiped over again with brake cleaner .
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Cheers! :)
 
Update - success, finished installing the rocker cover!

Half way through:

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And, finished!

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Huge thanks for all the help from everyone, it was super useful - by far the most complex job I’ve done on a car to date, and not sure I could have done it without the all the tips and guidance :)

Running great and no signs of leaks after a quick 30 min blast!

Next up, oil housing filter gasket and oil cooler gasket… plus probably replace the ‘mickey mouse’ coolant flange, drive belt and tensioner whilst in there… no idea how I’m going to do that all yet!
 
If your cover retaining bolts have the round rubber seals under them its reccomended to replace all 15 of them when doing a new gasket.
The seals do provide an air and oil tight seal and these do go hard with age and heat cycles which if used dont compress enough to provide a good seal. These engines require a good sealed vaccum system otherwise you will get fuel trim issues with unmetered air getting in and being picked up in the exhaust fooling the car into thinking its running lean. Computer then demands more fuel at the injectors to richen the mixture and will add up to 20% more fuel until it gives up and sets the EML to draw attention to the issue.
 
I think you've done an awesome job lot, it's given me the confidence to attempt the same. We'll done :thumbsup:
 
TOMGREEN413 said:
I think you've done an awesome job lot, it's given me the confidence to attempt the same. We'll done :thumbsup:
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Cheers Tom! Yeah pretty happy with how it went all in all - took longer than I expected, but I was definitely taking my time got caught out lacking tools at a couple of steps!

If I can do it, I’m sure you definitely can take it on :)
 
Brouse said:
Nice one mate! You'll feel like an N52 ninja after those other jobs
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Haha thanks - very much still learning as I go!! I’m sure I’ll chuck out a few stupid questions along the way…

The first one will be ‘how the hell do I remove the plastic cover for the oil cooler?’ Doesn’t look like I’ve got space to manoeuvre it off.

Answers on a postcard!
 
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