M market watch

mike k said:
I have been looking at a Z4M for a while now and was initially put off by the high running costs especially the insp2 service, but i keep coming back to them and have decided if I can find a nice one to just ignore the running costs !

I have seen the below advertised fairly local, I would prefer a higher spec but its looks like a nice example with good history and pretty clean mot history. Do people think £15.5k with 80k miles is about right ? Also can anyone give any pointers on what to look out for as I keep reading horror stories regarding Vanos, Conrod bearings and a few failed head gaskets...... should I be worried or are the issues blown out of proportion ?

The car in question is;
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2007-BMW-Z4M-3-2-M-Coupe-Original-unmodified-with-full-service-history/264724648034?hash=item3da2d19062:g:3sAAAOSwpMNetVI-

1. Good choice in car

2. Inspection II isn't that bad, considering it is done every 4th service

3. Non-Sat Nav cars are more desirable due to the 'flush' dashboard, however that car not having heated seats is a bit of a let down

4. Don't buy on mileage, buy on condition. Mileage is only relevant if you are looking for an investment, at which point you would need below 60,000 miles (and not go above that during your ownership)

5. Slightly higher mileage cars which have a book full of receipts of wear components replaced will be cheaper, both in terms of price and running costs and should also be depreciation free miles. Only downside to this is that your friends might comment that you drive a higher mileage car, but then who cares

6. VANOS is touch and go, best way to check if it's okay or not is to get your mechanic to check the tabs whilst conducting a valve adjustment on an Inspection I or II service

7. Rod bearing shells are also touch and go, the general consensus is that they should be replaced every 80,000 - 100,000 miles. However if the car has been looked after, i.e. warmed up properly and had regular oil changes than in theory, the shells can last much longer. There are US S54s which have gone past 200,000 miles on original internals. I also know of one car owned by a BMW Watford technician, an E46 M3, which has 260,000 miles on it and has not had shells, VANOS or HG replaced [albeit most of the miles were autobahn miles as he used to work in Munich and used his car as transportation for going to and from the UK]). Nevertheless, the problem on rod bearing shells is that it is impossible to know how the previous owner treated the car and so I would barter them into the purchase price of the car, perhaps offer to meet the owner halfway if he is not willing to cover the full cost (which is usually around 1,200). Note you will also want to replace the engine mounts while you are down there. If buying from a dealer you may find that he is reluctant to budge, at which point it would make sense to request a warranty to cover you for the period you are owning the car. Only issue with this is when you sell the car, (the warranty will most probably be up) and you will be selling a higher mileage vehicle without the service done and so future buyers will try and barter you on this

8. HG - don't bother replacing this until you are presented with pinking or unfortunately have to do a VANOS overhaul. Purely replacing your HG for preventative maintenance is the biggest waste of money

9. Don't be worried, just go in knowing that unless these jobs have been done, you may have to spend some cash sorting them throughout your ownership. If looked after properly these cars are pretty much bulletproof

10. Good luck :thumbsup:
 
R60BBA said:
1. Good choice in car

2. Inspection II isn't that bad, considering it is done every 4th service

3. Non-Sat Nav cars are more desirable due to the 'flush' dashboard, however that car not having heated seats is a bit of a let down

4. Don't buy on mileage, buy on condition. Mileage is only relevant if you are looking for an investment, at which point you would need below 60,000 miles (and not go above that during your ownership)

5. Slightly higher mileage cars which have a book full of receipts of wear components replaced will be cheaper, both in terms of price and running costs and should also be depreciation free miles. Only downside to this is that your friends might comment that you drive a higher mileage car, but then who cares

6. VANOS is touch and go, best way to check if it's okay or not is to get your mechanic to check the tabs whilst conducting a valve adjustment on an Inspection I or II service

7. Rod bearing shells are also touch and go, the general consensus is that they should be replaced every 80,000 - 100,000 miles. However if the car has been looked after, i.e. warmed up properly and had regular oil changes than in theory, the shells can last much longer. There are US S54s which have gone past 200,000 miles on original internals. I also know of one car owned by a BMW Watford technician, an E46 M3, which has 260,000 miles on it and has not had shells, VANOS or HG replaced [albeit most of the miles were autobahn miles as he used to work in Munich and used his car as transportation for going to and from the UK]). Nevertheless, the problem on rod bearing shells is that it is impossible to know how the previous owner treated the car and so I would barter them into the purchase price of the car, perhaps offer to meet the owner halfway if he is not willing to cover the full cost (which is usually around 1,200). Note you will also want to replace the engine mounts while you are down there. If buying from a dealer you may find that he is reluctant to budge, at which point it would make sense to request a warranty to cover you for the period you are owning the car. Only issue with this is when you sell the car, (the warranty will most probably be up) and you will be selling a higher mileage vehicle without the service done and so future buyers will try and barter you on this

8. HG - don't bother replacing this until you are presented with pinking or unfortunately have to do a VANOS overhaul. Purely replacing your HG for preventative maintenance is the biggest waste of money

9. Don't be worried, just go in knowing that unless these jobs have been done, you may have to spend some cash sorting them throughout your ownership. If looked after properly these cars are pretty much bulletproof

10. Good luck

Thanks for the detailed reply :D
Just read further through this post and seen the car was listed on collecting cars in march and sold for £12750 so slightly odd the dealer still has the car, the last insp2 was done in 2013 with an insp1 in 2016, and an oil service in 2018 and 2019, it will be due the insp2 service anytime now, looking at the close up of the wheels on collecting cars the discs dont look to good either so seems the car needs a bit of money spending on it quite soon, unless they drop the price quite a bit think I will give it a miss.
 
mike k said:
R60BBA said:
1. Good choice in car

2. Inspection II isn't that bad, considering it is done every 4th service

3. Non-Sat Nav cars are more desirable due to the 'flush' dashboard, however that car not having heated seats is a bit of a let down

4. Don't buy on mileage, buy on condition. Mileage is only relevant if you are looking for an investment, at which point you would need below 60,000 miles (and not go above that during your ownership)

5. Slightly higher mileage cars which have a book full of receipts of wear components replaced will be cheaper, both in terms of price and running costs and should also be depreciation free miles. Only downside to this is that your friends might comment that you drive a higher mileage car, but then who cares

6. VANOS is touch and go, best way to check if it's okay or not is to get your mechanic to check the tabs whilst conducting a valve adjustment on an Inspection I or II service

7. Rod bearing shells are also touch and go, the general consensus is that they should be replaced every 80,000 - 100,000 miles. However if the car has been looked after, i.e. warmed up properly and had regular oil changes than in theory, the shells can last much longer. There are US S54s which have gone past 200,000 miles on original internals. I also know of one car owned by a BMW Watford technician, an E46 M3, which has 260,000 miles on it and has not had shells, VANOS or HG replaced [albeit most of the miles were autobahn miles as he used to work in Munich and used his car as transportation for going to and from the UK]). Nevertheless, the problem on rod bearing shells is that it is impossible to know how the previous owner treated the car and so I would barter them into the purchase price of the car, perhaps offer to meet the owner halfway if he is not willing to cover the full cost (which is usually around 1,200). Note you will also want to replace the engine mounts while you are down there. If buying from a dealer you may find that he is reluctant to budge, at which point it would make sense to request a warranty to cover you for the period you are owning the car. Only issue with this is when you sell the car, (the warranty will most probably be up) and you will be selling a higher mileage vehicle without the service done and so future buyers will try and barter you on this

8. HG - don't bother replacing this until you are presented with pinking or unfortunately have to do a VANOS overhaul. Purely replacing your HG for preventative maintenance is the biggest waste of money

9. Don't be worried, just go in knowing that unless these jobs have been done, you may have to spend some cash sorting them throughout your ownership. If looked after properly these cars are pretty much bulletproof

10. Good luck

Thanks for the detailed reply :D
Just read further through this post and seen the car was listed on collecting cars in march and sold for £12750 so slightly odd the dealer still has the car, the last insp2 was done in 2013 with an insp1 in 2016, and an oil service in 2018 and 2019, it will be due the insp2 service anytime now, looking at the close up of the wheels on collecting cars the discs dont look to good either so seems the car needs a bit of money spending on it quite soon, unless they drop the price quite a bit think I will give it a miss.

You will do well to buy one of these that requires absolutely nothing spending within a few months.
That car if you got it for £14500 would give you £2k throw at it & still not be ott for a 80k car.
If it's local (Clitheroe) why not take a look & see if it appeals.
If you are local I can recommend a excellent bmw tech in Grt Harwood for ins2.
 
mike k said:
I have been looking at a Z4M for a while now and was initially put off by the high running costs especially the insp2 service, but i keep coming back to them and have decided if I can find a nice one to just ignore the running costs !

I have seen the below advertised fairly local, I would prefer a higher spec but its looks like a nice example with good history and pretty clean mot history. Do people think £15.5k with 80k miles is about right ? Also can anyone give any pointers on what to look out for as I keep reading horror stories regarding Vanos, Conrod bearings and a few failed head gaskets...... should I be worried or are the issues blown out of proportion ?

The car in question is;
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2007-BMW-Z4M-3-2-M-Coupe-Original-unmodified-with-full-service-history/264724648034?hash=item3da2d19062:g:3sAAAOSwpMNetVI-

Are you the chap that just placed the deposit on it?! I just contacted them to make an offer too! :evil:
Well done if so!
 
mr wilks said:
mike k said:
R60BBA said:
1. Good choice in car

2. Inspection II isn't that bad, considering it is done every 4th service

3. Non-Sat Nav cars are more desirable due to the 'flush' dashboard, however that car not having heated seats is a bit of a let down

4. Don't buy on mileage, buy on condition. Mileage is only relevant if you are looking for an investment, at which point you would need below 60,000 miles (and not go above that during your ownership)

5. Slightly higher mileage cars which have a book full of receipts of wear components replaced will be cheaper, both in terms of price and running costs and should also be depreciation free miles. Only downside to this is that your friends might comment that you drive a higher mileage car, but then who cares

6. VANOS is touch and go, best way to check if it's okay or not is to get your mechanic to check the tabs whilst conducting a valve adjustment on an Inspection I or II service

7. Rod bearing shells are also touch and go, the general consensus is that they should be replaced every 80,000 - 100,000 miles. However if the car has been looked after, i.e. warmed up properly and had regular oil changes than in theory, the shells can last much longer. There are US S54s which have gone past 200,000 miles on original internals. I also know of one car owned by a BMW Watford technician, an E46 M3, which has 260,000 miles on it and has not had shells, VANOS or HG replaced [albeit most of the miles were autobahn miles as he used to work in Munich and used his car as transportation for going to and from the UK]). Nevertheless, the problem on rod bearing shells is that it is impossible to know how the previous owner treated the car and so I would barter them into the purchase price of the car, perhaps offer to meet the owner halfway if he is not willing to cover the full cost (which is usually around 1,200). Note you will also want to replace the engine mounts while you are down there. If buying from a dealer you may find that he is reluctant to budge, at which point it would make sense to request a warranty to cover you for the period you are owning the car. Only issue with this is when you sell the car, (the warranty will most probably be up) and you will be selling a higher mileage vehicle without the service done and so future buyers will try and barter you on this

8. HG - don't bother replacing this until you are presented with pinking or unfortunately have to do a VANOS overhaul. Purely replacing your HG for preventative maintenance is the biggest waste of money

9. Don't be worried, just go in knowing that unless these jobs have been done, you may have to spend some cash sorting them throughout your ownership. If looked after properly these cars are pretty much bulletproof

10. Good luck

Thanks for the detailed reply :D
Just read further through this post and seen the car was listed on collecting cars in march and sold for £12750 so slightly odd the dealer still has the car, the last insp2 was done in 2013 with an insp1 in 2016, and an oil service in 2018 and 2019, it will be due the insp2 service anytime now, looking at the close up of the wheels on collecting cars the discs dont look to good either so seems the car needs a bit of money spending on it quite soon, unless they drop the price quite a bit think I will give it a miss.

You will do well to buy one of these that requires absolutely nothing spending within a few months.
That car if you got it for £14500 would give you £2k throw at it & still not be ott for a 80k car.
If it's local (Clitheroe) why not take a look & see if it appeals.
If you are local I can recommend a excellent bmw tech in Grt Harwood for ins2.

All true, but it's easy to get caught up with a high mileage car that needs even more work than was apparent when purchasing. You then end up with a high mileage car that has cost at least as much as a lower mileage example, yet will never be worth as much. Unless you do some mega miles anyway.

I remember having this discussion with a friend who bought a cheap high mileage 986 Boxster S. Although the gearbox / engine was sound, he still ended up spending ~5k to bring it up to par. He could have bought a nice average mileage 987 for that.
 
dougie1142 said:
Are you the chap that just placed the deposit on it?! I just contacted them to make an offer too!
Well done if so!

No not me unfortunately I was going to give them a call shortly.
 
bakes100 said:
mike k said:
dougie1142 said:
Are you the chap that just placed the deposit on it?! I just contacted them to make an offer too!
Well done if so!

No not me unfortunately I was going to give them a call shortly.

Sorry guys beat you to it! Offer accepted (pending viewing)

Well done :thumbsup: a sleeping fox catches no poultry , looks a cracking car at a good price so hope it works out for you :driving:
 
mark seeker said:
Another Z4MC on Collecting Cars, have we seen this one before? https://collectingcars.com/for-sale/2007-bmw-z4-m-coupe

Unless sale has fallen through its the one here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2007-BMW-Z4M-3-2-M-Coupe-Original-unmodified-with-full-service-history/264724648034?hash=item3da2d19062:g:3sAAAOSwpMNetVI- that "bakes100" above mentions securing .
 
mr wilks said:
mark seeker said:
Another Z4MC on Collecting Cars, have we seen this one before? https://collectingcars.com/for-sale/2007-bmw-z4-m-coupe

Unless sale has fallen through its the one here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2007-BMW-Z4M-3-2-M-Coupe-Original-unmodified-with-full-service-history/264724648034?hash=item3da2d19062:g:3sAAAOSwpMNetVI- that "bakes100" above mentions securing .

I ended up withdrawing my offer on the car, the logistics of viewing the car were difficult in the current situation (300+ miles) and I’m not 100% happy with the low spec of the car so I decided not to go ahead with purchase.
 
Angelus666 said:
I think low spec is an actually selling point today...the sat nav ages the car badly and devalues the car IMO

Have to agree , spec to me is more important on daily drivers , majority of ZMs now sunny days & Sundays what extra spec over stock do you really have to have ?
Also think the piano black trim works well but if the car doesn't appeal it doesn't appeal :cry: , £14500 80k + fresh set of Michelins its not a bad point to be into a ZMC
 
I think it may be the same seller as both show a location in Clitheroe!

I wasn't too bothered about spec when I bought mine, but having heated seats, Professional Nav, cruise and the HiFi stereo were just an added bonus - although I've hardly used the stereo as I seem to be addicted to the S54 soundtrack. :roll:
 
Angelus666 said:
I think low spec is an actually selling point today...the sat nav ages the car badly and devalues the car IMO

Agree on the sat nav (as previously posted), but heated seats is a must in any Z4M imo.
 
Heated seats is a simple retro fit for £500, have them in mine and the heating element is much better that the oem version. Although to be honest I very rarely use them anyway....if buying today it wouldn’t put me off a car in anyway.
 
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