Another roof problem!

[tintoverano]

diag_46o6.jpg (40.86 KiB) Viewed 1313 times

Screen Shot 05-22-20 at 12.59 PM.PNG (9.32 KiB) Viewed 1313 times

how about #2 and #3?

thanks

[Silverstar]

So should these micro switches be replaced in the same fashion as the salmon relays? i.e. preventive maintenance. If so is this doable by an average person? where are these microswitches located and how do you change them?

[tintoverano]

here's a detailed post

[RobbiZ4]

[wanatkinson]

diag_46o6.jpg

Screen Shot 05-22-20 at 12.59 PM.PNG

how about #2 and #3?

thanks

The problem seems to be with the "rear module microswitch" (that's what it's called in the workshop manual) or what I've been calling the "boot lid" not knowing it has succesfully closed, which is what RobbieZ4 and dietcokeman seem to agree is due to the boot lid or "rear module" microswitch - #4 and #5 in the diagram. The parts catalogue seems to call this the "ring buckle coupling microswitch" but I'm pretty sure it is the same thing.

I can see why you would look at the rear window shell as that is the part that is stuck when trying to close the roof, but the problem is still present when the roof is fully open and the rear window shell is stowed away, i.e. the wndows won't go up, the boot is locked and the warning light and sound remain.

Hope that all makes sense! If not, let me know before I go down the wrong path...

[tintoverano]

diag_46o6.jpg

Screen Shot 05-22-20 at 12.59 PM.PNG

how about #2 and #3?

thanks

I can see why you would look at the rear window shell as that is the part that is stuck when trying to close the roof, but the problem is still present when the roof is fully open and the rear window shell is stowed away, i.e. the wndows won't go up, the boot is locked and the warning light and sound remain.

just wanna order the rigth ones

thanks

[RobbiZ4]

#4 and #5

[tintoverano]

#4 and #5

cheers

[Smartbear]

I think I will replace these first and see what happens

That's my general recommendation for all 2009/2010 Z4.
Apart of your individual issue, these MS can fail due to the aging of that little spring on the microswitch, that is spreaded to max when the lid is closed. And that is 99.9999999% of the lifetime of the Z4.
And, these failing MS can force the hydraulic pump to run continuosly until it dies due to overheating. That situation is not checked by the CTM.

There are some pifalls:
- mark the exact position of the 3 nuts on the coupling locks, use a fine white or silver edding pin to mark around these nuts
- the small 3 mm inbus(!) screws are glued and in most cases have to be drilled out with a 3mm drill
- you need 4x M3 inbus screws with a lenght of 10mm, two of them have to be shorted to a lenght of 5mm
- the new microswitches have a newser plug. Cut the new(!) plug housing, take the pins out of it and put it into the housings of the old MS

Hi, the microswitch spring which seems to cause problems due to stretching - is it possible to replace the spring only or maybe shorten it by cutting 1 coil off & reattach? (both sides of course)
Rob

[RobbiZ4]

Hi, the microswitch spring which seems to cause problems due to stretching - is it possible to replace the spring only or maybe shorten it by cutting 1 coil off & reattach? (both sides of course)
Rob

Just have a look at the position, whre the MS are mounted. If you will get a 5mm spring replaced there, you will be my hero.
The price of both MS is below 40€, not worth any experiments where you will risk the life of your hydraulic pump.

[Smartbear]

Hi, the microswitch spring which seems to cause problems due to stretching - is it possible to replace the spring only or maybe shorten it by cutting 1 coil off & reattach? (both sides of course)
Rob

Just have a look at the position, whre the MS are mounted. If you will get a 5mm spring replaced there, you will be my hero.
The price of both MS is below 40€, not worth any experiments where you will risk the life of your hydraulic pump.

It wasn’t the cost that concerned me, just sounded like a fiddly/awkward job. Changing the spring only sounds like an equally unpleasant task!
Rob

[Silverstar]

here's a detailed post

Thanks for the link, seems like an awkward job for me, I wonder if the Indi specialist here can do it.

[tintoverano]

#4 and #5

hi Robbi,

as you mentioned the allen screws holding the microswitch are glued too and had to be drilled out (I'll try to find a driver with more rigid head on Tuesday, sse if I can release them - the one I had failed)

if not, what are the specs of theses screws?

I don't see them listed

thanks

[enuff_zed]

#4 and #5

hi Robbi,

as you mentioned the allen screws holding the microswitch are glued too and had to be drilled out (I'll try to find a driver with more rigid head on Tuesday, sse if I can release them - the one I had failed)

if not, what are the specs of theses screws?

I don't see them listed

thanks

Robbi has picked up his ball and gone I'm afraid.
Hopefully someone else can help you though?

[LordLolzeye]

#4 and #5

hi Robbi,

as you mentioned the allen screws holding the microswitch are glued too and had to be drilled out (I'll try to find a driver with more rigid head on Tuesday, sse if I can release them - the one I had failed)

if not, what are the specs of theses screws?

I don't see them listed

thanks

Hello tintoverano,

I've replaced microswitches #2 and #3 on my own roof around a year ago, they are not screwed in, they are melted.
When ordering those two microswitches as new you will see they have two "pins" that force the microswitch to get into position. After you put the MS in the right position you just use a soldering iron to melt the pins on the holes.

I've also replaced microswitches #4 and #5 this weekend on my roof as I've replaced the entire wiring harness (DIY tutorial coming soon). Keep this in mind:
If your car is a pre-2012 ( I believe 2012 ) model (if the pump has 4 solenoids you have the new model) you will have the following issues:
- The wiring harness does not have the right plug for the newly ordered MS (they've changed the plug design for those microswitches), so you will have to use the housing from the old microswitch and transfer it to the new one.

I've also drilled out the screws on #4 and #5 and replaced them with some screws from an old HDD drive i've had laying around in my house. Those work really well.

P.S: Also, after removing the kinematics box [1] (the thing that holds the cylinder and MS 4 or 5) you will need to let it readjust itself into position (so you won't hear a bang all the time when the roof is closing in the boot / opening in the boot)

[1] https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e89- ... f/IzeQ78p8

Hope it helps,
Rob