Steering Column Fix - Torque Sensor (save £2000)
- Thread starter Mike Le'mans
- Start date
Joycey said:
Hi Joycey,
I have a question if I may,
I am struggling to see which was i am to more the ring in the motor.
If i am lay under the steering column and way to draw a line at the bottom of the ring, would i more the ring to the front or rear of the car?
Thanks
This thread has more information - https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=100725synthedup said:Joycey said:
Hi Joycey,
I have a question if I may,
I am struggling to see which was i am to more the ring in the motor.
If i am lay under the steering column and way to draw a line at the bottom of the ring, would i more the ring to the front or rear of the car?
Thanks
would a open circuit fault on the instrument cluster module point towards this being the ribbon cable?
but before you answer that, if you clear the open circuit fault the light goes out and the steering works as intended until you turn the car off
its only if the car is left off for over say 5-10 minutes does the light come back, and you can get that with out moving the car or touching the steering wheel
but before you answer that, if you clear the open circuit fault the light goes out and the steering works as intended until you turn the car off
its only if the car is left off for over say 5-10 minutes does the light come back, and you can get that with out moving the car or touching the steering wheel
Alan Hernandez
New member
Hello, Nice tutorial you are really specific with the instructions, I also have a BMW Z4 2006 with the same fault and also my car had a crash and the front part was damaged. I'm not really sure if my car have the problem like your car so that's why I am here asking you if you Know another reasons of the fault?
Kind regards.
Kind regards.
Hi, has anyone else done this fix? I have just had an issue where my power steering turns off at full right hand lock. Turning the car off then on fixes it temporarily until I hit full lock again whilst parking.
Just wondering if anyone knows any other tips, or companies that do this fix?
Just wondering if anyone knows any other tips, or companies that do this fix?
Same issue here over the last week , I’m guessing the plan of action is to check for resistance in the steering with engine off and front jacked up , next check for loose connectors on the motor and also see if the light happens with no heat in the cabin. Looking at this great strip down thread it looks to be a design flaw a stupid fragile ribbon cable they have used much like the one found in a inkjet printer! EPS purely to save a slight amount emissions under EU law all bloody madness. I think I’ll be going down the hydraulic power steering route since whenever I drive my girlfriends 120d the steering feels so much better hard to explain exactly what just has more of a ‘quality feel’ :headbang:
enuff_zed
Lifer
[ref]Z4JOE91[/ref], getting the column out is actually easier than it looks.
You will need to cut away the sacrificial piece of trim under the dash. I also find it easier to remove the EPS motor as well, but you can take it all out together, just takes a bit more fiddling.
The one very important part is separating the column from the UJ in the engine bay. If you just yank it out then you run the risk of damaging the extending section below it.
Best way is to remove the bolt from the UJ, then use a large screwdriver or pry bar with a hammer to open up the joint a little.
Then use a block of wood and a hammer on the top of the UJ and tap it down away from the column.
Once this is free then you can unbolt the column and lift it out.
The clamping bolt on the UJ actually fits into a groove in the splined section of the column, so when you refit it, don't push the UJ too far on or the bolt won't go through.
You will need to cut away the sacrificial piece of trim under the dash. I also find it easier to remove the EPS motor as well, but you can take it all out together, just takes a bit more fiddling.
The one very important part is separating the column from the UJ in the engine bay. If you just yank it out then you run the risk of damaging the extending section below it.
Best way is to remove the bolt from the UJ, then use a large screwdriver or pry bar with a hammer to open up the joint a little.
Then use a block of wood and a hammer on the top of the UJ and tap it down away from the column.
Once this is free then you can unbolt the column and lift it out.
The clamping bolt on the UJ actually fits into a groove in the splined section of the column, so when you refit it, don't push the UJ too far on or the bolt won't go through.
enuff_zed said:
thank you so much for the info! I've looked at a few videos on YouTube and skimmed through the forums to be prepared with knowledge. I didn't see anything about opening the UJ a little. Question, before I remove the steering wheel should I lock it into place since I won't have the centering pin?
enuff_zed
Lifer
No need to lock it.
The wheel has a master spline so will only go back on in one place.
As long as you don't turn the column you will be fine.
However, as you are taking the whole column apart I would recommend you get the proper locking pin or at least make one up.
It is the wires in the torque sensor that get damaged by turning the column out of the car and it would be a huge waste of time to repair it then damage it again.
Have you considered simply fitting a replacement column?
You can pick them up second-hand for around £250
The wheel has a master spline so will only go back on in one place.
As long as you don't turn the column you will be fine.
However, as you are taking the whole column apart I would recommend you get the proper locking pin or at least make one up.
It is the wires in the torque sensor that get damaged by turning the column out of the car and it would be a huge waste of time to repair it then damage it again.
Have you considered simply fitting a replacement column?
You can pick them up second-hand for around £250
enuff_zed
Lifer
Ah sorry, didn't realise you weren't UK based.
I reckon for $100 it would be worth a punt to get that one and do the repair on that, then swap it all over.
That way you learn without the risk of killing your own one.
You then either learn from your mistakes or you end up with a spare that you then repair, with full photos of the process and sell on for a profit.
I reckon for $100 it would be worth a punt to get that one and do the repair on that, then swap it all over.
That way you learn without the risk of killing your own one.
You then either learn from your mistakes or you end up with a spare that you then repair, with full photos of the process and sell on for a profit.
