Factory Stereo HU replacement

J

Johnny V

Member
Hi All,
Hopefully I'm not posting an already answered version of this, so here we go.
I have an '03 Z4 3.0i with the factory Stereo 10 speaker (non-nav) system. The screen isn't great and the buttons are sticking. Between that and the need for iphone integration and bluetooth abilities, I am looking to upgrage the HU. All that being said, my question is, do I have to bypass the factory amp to do this and run wiring to the speakers and what will be the issues if I choose not to bypass the amp, if any? Will the system still work through the factory amp? Thanks.
 
Hi, welcome to the forum!

If you have the top level Carver setup, you cannot drive the amp with an aftermarket unit, the interface is digital. If it's the mid-level analog amp, I don't know. You could experiment driving it with another audio unit with line level (RCA) outputs, even if it's a home unit on house current. Or wait for a better answer :roll:

Incidentally, you can get iphone integration and bluetooth with adapters that connect to the CD changer wiring, though you lose the use of the changer if you have one. (The wiring is always there in all models). If you're moderately handy, the OEM HU's faceplate can be disassembled and the buttons cleaned. They are just plastic blocks pushing on fairly standard rubber collapsing dome switches over a PCB contact pattern.
 
http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/1576.html

something like that paired with a nice alpine headunit will see you very happy
 
NeilP said:
http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/1576.html

something like that paired with a nice alpine headunit will see you very happy
Click to expand...

As above, it's not that easy with the top level system.
 
Wow, thanks for the feedback. I think this is a mid-level system w/o a cd changer. I will know more once I get time to get into it this weekend. Really just getting familiar with the Z. All advice is appreciated.
 
Out of curiosity, how do I tell for sure if I have the mid-level system? I don't see any printed info. on the stereo face.
 
You can try this: http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=40891&p=575286

Or get a listing of your car's original equipment (link in this forum somewhere) and see if "DSP" appears anywhere, meaning it is a top level system.
 
Well, I've got good news and bad news. The good new is I have the top level DSP system in the car. :D
The bad news is I have the top level DSP system in the car. :headbang:
Based on the feedback I can't just change the HU. Any suggestions on options?
 
I had the same system (10 speaker system) in my 2.5i. Here is what I converted it to (did it myself so nothing major):








You have a couple of options. At the most basic, you could remove the factory amp and run everything off the head unit (just wire the "in and out" of the amp together so the speakers are tied directly to the head unit). Next up, install a head unit but use an amp that accepts line level signals to replace the factory amp. Finally, you can do what I did and install the head unit, run RCA cables to a new amp, and then send the sound out to the speakers through the factory wires (this is the option I went with). All three options will require a passive crossover for the mids/tweets in the doors as the factory amp splits the signal for these speakers.

Lots of options, just depends on how much effort/time/money you want to put into it.

My setup is a Kenwood head unit, 5 channel RCAs, and a 5 channel amp in the trunk. The front channel powers the door tweeters and mid. The rear channel powers the kick panel mid-bass speakers. The sub channel powers the factory subs behind the seats. I have removed the two mids behind the seats (I hate having sound come from behind me in cars as they don't have a surround sound system so it just sounds bad to me).
 
V8z4 - good effort! Did you / are you going to change the speakers? I have a similar set up to you and can't wait to get some proper speakers to finish it off!

Think I'm going to go for focal access 3 way components up front and focal access coaxials to replace factory 'subs' behind
 
oli445 said:
V8z4 - good effort! Did you / are you going to change the speakers? I have a similar set up to you and can't wait to get some proper speakers to finish it off!

Think I'm going to go for focal access 3 way components up front and focal access coaxials to replace factory 'subs' behind
Click to expand...

Eventually I'll upgrade the speakers, but right now all my money is going to the engine swap project.

I'd like to do:

- mids/tweets to some Infinity Kappa 5.1s (I have had good luck with the Infinity Kappa components so I keep going back to them)
- some solid 6.5" mid-bass for the kicks
- glass an 8" sub box for in the trunk (like this one)




I have read a lot of posts where people replaced the factory 'subs' with 6.5" 'subs' or used 6x9s and they all say it isn't worth the trouble (marginal sound improvement that is not worth the cost/time). It seams that the only worthwhile option for a sub in these cars is a true 8' or 10" sub in the trunk.
 
Unfortunately I can't find anyone that makes a "pre-made" stealth box for the Z4. They are all over the place for Z3s, E46s, E36, etc.... but no Z4s. :(
 
theres no market for a z4 stealth box esp given how little bass would theoretically travel from the boot to the cabin in a roadster.

Using 6.5" subs can be hit and miss, it's mainly down to installation and tuning...people feel that you just set a crossover point, set the gain and its done.

I'm now going to be experimenting with the rear speakers. There is a nice amount of space behind there for a decent enclosure, so adding a lot of deadener to the inside and the right set up might give half decent results. (bear in mind I'm doing this to a coupe, so there's less 'wasted' energy so to speak'.
 
NeilP said:
theres no market for a z4 stealth box esp given how little bass would theoretically travel from the boot to the cabin in a roadster.

Using 6.5" subs can be hit and miss, it's mainly down to installation and tuning...people feel that you just set a crossover point, set the gain and its done.

I'm now going to be experimenting with the rear speakers. There is a nice amount of space behind there for a decent enclosure, so adding a lot of deadener to the inside and the right set up might give half decent results. (bear in mind I'm doing this to a coupe, so there's less 'wasted' energy so to speak'.
Click to expand...


Post your process and results! I'd love to make the 6.5" subs work, but I'm not really good at that portion of audio install.
 
v8z4 said:
I had the same system (10 speaker system) in my 2.5i. Here is what I converted it to (did it myself so nothing major):



You have a couple of options. At the most basic, you could remove the factory amp and run everything off the head unit (just wire the "in and out" of the amp together so the speakers are tied directly to the head unit). Next up, install a head unit but use an amp that accepts line level signals to replace the factory amp. Finally, you can do what I did and install the head unit, run RCA cables to a new amp, and then send the sound out to the speakers through the factory wires (this is the option I went with). All three options will require a passive crossover for the mids/tweets in the doors as the factory amp splits the signal for these speakers.

Lots of options, just depends on how much effort/time/money you want to put into it.

My setup is a Kenwood head unit, 5 channel RCAs, and a 5 channel amp in the trunk. The front channel powers the door tweeters and mid. The rear channel powers the kick panel mid-bass speakers. The sub channel powers the factory subs behind the seats. I have removed the two mids behind the seats (I hate having sound come from behind me in cars as they don't have a surround sound system so it just sounds bad to me).
Click to expand...
Thanks for the input. So if one were to be non-audio savvy and chose to try the 1st option and let the HU drive it. Aside from wiring the in and out together, what type of crossover should be used?
 
Well, how do you want to setup the system? Do you want to retain the 'rear' (the mids behind the seat) speakers? If so, then you need a 3-way crossover. If not, then a 2-way will work.
 
Yes, I would like to keep all speakers. Sorry to ask so many dumb questions. With only driving off of the HU, will the sound quality decrease dramatically? Also, do you have a particular crossover to recommend? Again, thanks for all the info.
 
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