Winter lay up.

[lowrider]

In November I am going to sorn my Z4 3.0. and leave it covered outside. Is it better to remove the battery or to leave it connected and give it a regular trickle charge. I would appreciate advice.

 

[Trav]

I think it is better connected. At least then you can do things like moving the car around on its tyres (even if its just a bit). Also if your car has air conditioning, you can run it. They key batteries also only charge when in the ignition I think. One of mine went flat last winter and that was a bit of a pain. Also your car alarm wont work without the battery so that is a basic reason to leave it in.

 

[buzyg]

I gather you cann charge the key fob using the induction charger from an electric tooth brush. Not tried it though. Agree the battery is best left connected and charged regularly. If safe chock the car and leave the hànd brake off too.

 

[Ewazix]

Battery in is best with these cars for all the above reasons and as buzyg says, pleased don't leave your handbrake on, having removed a welded drum and shoes on another car a while ago I can tell you it's a brutal process! (but would probably be the only time a BMW handbrake worked 100% :wink: )

 

[lowrider]

Thanks for your responses. Leaving the battery seems the popular option ,I’ll give it a trickle charge monthly. Re the handbrake my Z is automatic so leaving the hand brake off is not a problem.

 

[Ewazix]

Just one other tip, a lot of people have started to mention that their fuel pump becomes noisy (whirring/hum from boot area) after a lengthy lay-up and I had this last year, it disappeared after a few drives but for some it doesn't. It seems to be a well known issue being aggravated by the ethanol content in modern fuels, causing a horrible noise but rarely a failure. My Indi suggested running a bottle of petrol treatment with a protective content in the a tank before laying-up. Something like Wynn's Formula Gold Petrol Treatment seems to fit the bill so I will be giving it a go this winter.

 

[Z4paul]

Just one other tip, a lot of people have started to mention that their fuel pump becomes noisy (whirring/hum from boot area) after a lengthy lay-up and I had this last year, it disappeared after a few drives but for some it doesn't. It seems to be a well known issue being aggravated by the ethanol content in modern fuels, causing a horrible noise but rarely a failure. My Indi suggested running a bottle of petrol treatment with a protective content in the a tank before laying-up. Something like Wynn's Formula Gold Petrol Treatment seems to fit the bill so I will be giving it a go this winter.

Will be doing the same this year and this sounds like a helpful suggestion and will hopefully mean fewer problems post hibernation

 

[Old-Duckman]

Are the fuel tanks in these cars plastic or steel?

If steel I have heard to store the car with a full tank of gas. Less room for moist air to be in the tank which could allow rust to form. Don’t know...just what I heard on car radio shows.

 

[Ladderman]

If you want a really good battery charger/conditioner, this is the one to get. https://www.ctek.com/uk/products/car/mxs-5-0-uk.
I use it on my z4 for winter storage. Once you connect it, it monitors your battery & only adds charge when needed. The company get really good reviews.

 

[Ewazix]

Are the fuel tanks in these cars plastic or steel?

If steel I have heard to store the car with a full tank of gas. Less room for moist air to be in the tank which could allow rust to form. Don’t know...just what I heard on car radio shows.

Plastic tanks on these so at least that's one issue not to worry about

 

[ARCS]

If you want a really good battery charger/conditioner, this is the one to get. https://www.ctek.com/uk/products/car/mxs-5-0-uk.
I use it on my z4 for winter storage. Once you connect it, it monitors your battery & only adds charge when needed. The company get really good reviews.

That's the one I use. Great little charger

 

[Jamezee]

Stuffed the Z3 under a cover a few months ago, left battery in and handbrake off. Plopped a moisture control pingi sack in too.

 

[zriha]

I am planning to do the same, I also did this with my Miata. What I would do is to regularly (every weekend) start a car - so once every week, and leave to work until it is fully worm. Occasionally I would drive it (if there is no snow - as I don't have winter tyres).

That will be the same plan for the Z4 this winter. I bought a good cover, it is in front of my apartment, and it will be regularly turned on and if there is no snow, some little driving will be also done.

 

[enuff_zed]

Just one other tip, a lot of people have started to mention that their fuel pump becomes noisy (whirring/hum from boot area) after a lengthy lay-up and I had this last year, it disappeared after a few drives but for some it doesn't. It seems to be a well known issue being aggravated by the ethanol content in modern fuels, causing a horrible noise but rarely a failure. My Indi suggested running a bottle of petrol treatment with a protective content in the a tank before laying-up. Something like Wynn's Formula Gold Petrol Treatment seems to fit the bill so I will be giving it a go this winter.

Not sure if it still applies to modern fuels but can't see why it wouldn't: another issue with leaving a car parked up is condensation forming in the fuel tank. This then runs down into the fuel and forms a layer at the bottom of the tank. As the fuel pump picks up from the bottom of the tank, come the spring it's first big gulp will be water.
For this reason, a lot of people recommend keeping the tank filled to the brim if laying it up for a while. Less air space for condensation to form.
But, modern fuels seem to break down quite quickly and you could end up with a tank full of crap fuel. If you'd left the level lower you could have poured some fresh stuff in to get it all going.
So, pros and cons really.
I just wondered if some of the pump issues may have been due to the water around it? Corrosion? Lack of lubrication? All just conjecture on my part to be honest, but worth consideration.

 

[Ewazix]

Just one other tip, a lot of people have started to mention that their fuel pump becomes noisy (whirring/hum from boot area) after a lengthy lay-up and I had this last year, it disappeared after a few drives but for some it doesn't. It seems to be a well known issue being aggravated by the ethanol content in modern fuels, causing a horrible noise but rarely a failure. My Indi suggested running a bottle of petrol treatment with a protective content in the a tank before laying-up. Something like Wynn's Formula Gold Petrol Treatment seems to fit the bill so I will be giving it a go this winter.

Not sure if it still applies to modern fuels but can't see why it wouldn't: another issue with leaving a car parked up is condensation forming in the fuel tank. This then runs down into the fuel and forms a layer at the bottom of the tank. As the fuel pump picks up from the bottom of the tank, come the spring it's first big gulp will be water.
For this reason, a lot of people recommend keeping the tank filled to the brim if laying it up for a while. Less air space for condensation to form.
But, modern fuels seem to break down quite quickly and you could end up with a tank full of crap fuel. If you'd left the level lower you could have poured some fresh stuff in to get it all going.
So, pros and cons really.
I just wondered if some of the pump issues may have been due to the water around it? Corrosion? Lack of lubrication? All just conjecture on my part to be honest, but worth consideration.

We now have 5% Ethanol mix in UK petrol and it's due to increase to 10% soon, technical bulletins are flying around all warning that a lot of mid 90's and older cars are going to be damaged. Basically Ethanol is hydroscopic so absorbs and holds water, as opposed to it separating in the tank as it used to. Not only is it then causing corrosion in pumps injectors etc but it's acidic and attacks many seals, pipes and filters in older cars causing blockages with microscopic debris. From what I've been advised re the noisy fuel pumps on our cars after a few weeks storage, it's the ethanol/water content causing internal corrosion in the pump when stood. Filling or not filling the tank isn't going to make a difference by the looks of it.

So the answer seems to be to either use the car regularly or use an additive although it's tricky to know which is best with so much snake oil around :lol:

Note: Don't use any of the phosphorus based products designed for classics, they do a great job of protecting against valve recession and other nasties but will kill catalyst.

 

[enuff_zed]

Just one other tip, a lot of people have started to mention that their fuel pump becomes noisy (whirring/hum from boot area) after a lengthy lay-up and I had this last year, it disappeared after a few drives but for some it doesn't. It seems to be a well known issue being aggravated by the ethanol content in modern fuels, causing a horrible noise but rarely a failure. My Indi suggested running a bottle of petrol treatment with a protective content in the a tank before laying-up. Something like Wynn's Formula Gold Petrol Treatment seems to fit the bill so I will be giving it a go this winter.

Not sure if it still applies to modern fuels but can't see why it wouldn't: another issue with leaving a car parked up is condensation forming in the fuel tank. This then runs down into the fuel and forms a layer at the bottom of the tank. As the fuel pump picks up from the bottom of the tank, come the spring it's first big gulp will be water.
For this reason, a lot of people recommend keeping the tank filled to the brim if laying it up for a while. Less air space for condensation to form.
But, modern fuels seem to break down quite quickly and you could end up with a tank full of crap fuel. If you'd left the level lower you could have poured some fresh stuff in to get it all going.
So, pros and cons really.
I just wondered if some of the pump issues may have been due to the water around it? Corrosion? Lack of lubrication? All just conjecture on my part to be honest, but worth consideration.

We now have 5% Ethanol mix in UK petrol and it's due to increase to 10% soon, technical bulletins are flying around all warning that a lot of mid 90's and older cars are going to be damaged. Basically Ethanol is hydroscopic so absorbs and holds water, as opposed to it separating in the tank as it used to. Not only is it then causing corrosion in pumps injectors etc but it's acidic and attacks many seals, pipes and filters in older cars causing blockages with microscopic debris. From what I've been advised re the noisy fuel pumps on our cars after a few weeks storage, it's the ethanol/water content causing internal corrosion in the pump when stood. Filling or not filling the tank isn't going to make a difference by the looks of it.

So the answer seems to be to either use the car regularly or use an additive although it's tricky to know which is best with so much snake oil around :lol:

Note: Don't use any of the phosphorus based products designed for classics, they do a great job of protecting against valve recession and other nasties but will kill catalyst.

I didn't know any of that so thank you.
To me it seems the best answer is to use it, but make sure you at the least hose the salt off every week and keep the alloys well sealed.
I know that's not possible for everyone of course.