What oil temp do you give it the beans?
- Thread starter cjp2k
- Start date
Wait, the reading on that gauge is real? I assumed it was a software simulation. 
Andrew*Debbie said:Wait, the reading on that gauge is real? I assumed it was a software simulation.
I hope not lol in my parents old Fabia vrs the coolant temp was a simulation
Hopefully BMW feed the info that the sensors probably pick up to the driver in real time
GSARider said:
Do what? Seriously? Before you set off you let the car idle for 3 minutes? RTFM lol
That's really not a good plan, your engine warms up faster in use, not to mention that oil does not circulate as well at idle and you're likely causing more wear. My advice, start the car and set off!
Personally I drive off straight away but just take it easy. I would guess most of us take a few minutes to get to anything resembling the "open road". I wouldn't give it full whack until it is up to temp but its a fun car not at full whack
GSARider said:
Do you just sit in the car for 3 minutes?
As maniac has stated, at idle, oil pick up is minimal, the result of which will be to cause the rings and liners to wear quicker. This might not be a problem for you, if you only keep the car for three years, just the guy who buys it down the road from you.
and the comment that I have been doing it for 20 years does not necessarily make you right
yes, it take a while to start to get up to temp in our hot climate :lol:
The only time I let it sit is while I scrape ice off the windows. Seriously the worst thing for a car is for it to sit at low revs.
Synthetic fluid and lubricant flows have been vastly modeled and engine design have moved on, remember when you had to manually grease joints on a regular basis.
I push mine and the 3 previously from cold but I dont go much above 5K revs you simply look and sound a prat in a 30MPH built up area. My drive does get me to country roads within 5 mins and by then the needle is moving up, but even then I would not drop it down into 2nd just to redline and change to 3rd it it gets to 60 fast enough in 6th.
The engine and electronics would be designed as such to protect it if cold was an issue, I mean -20. My celica 190 had its 60BHP boost from 6.5K revs to 9K revs but would only give the revs and the cam lift if it was warm, and it caught me out a few times with the engine management cutting the power. It could have done with a LED in the dash to come on when its ready to lift and thats 15 years ago
I would have thought the engine and management system would stem the throttle if it was going to damage the engine in any way.
Synthetic fluid and lubricant flows have been vastly modeled and engine design have moved on, remember when you had to manually grease joints on a regular basis.
I push mine and the 3 previously from cold but I dont go much above 5K revs you simply look and sound a prat in a 30MPH built up area. My drive does get me to country roads within 5 mins and by then the needle is moving up, but even then I would not drop it down into 2nd just to redline and change to 3rd it it gets to 60 fast enough in 6th.
The engine and electronics would be designed as such to protect it if cold was an issue, I mean -20. My celica 190 had its 60BHP boost from 6.5K revs to 9K revs but would only give the revs and the cam lift if it was warm, and it caught me out a few times with the engine management cutting the power. It could have done with a LED in the dash to come on when its ready to lift and thats 15 years ago
I would have thought the engine and management system would stem the throttle if it was going to damage the engine in any way.
sars said:
No I do a little dance around the car...
And it doesn't make it wrong either. Given that I've had cars clock up with over 100,000 miles with no issues, I think I'll stick with it and on my bikes...same applies, so my experience says it's fine and allows a little bit of warm up before setting off.
The drive off as soon as you can was put in place as the new 'gospel' to minimise CO2 emissions not engine damage.
Oil pressure is at its lowest at idle and when the engine is cold oil is thick and does not lubricate very well.
Add these two situations together and increase wear will take place.
Personally I let the car idle for maybe 30 secs then drive off. Just enough idle to make sure the oil has been around the engine and ready to drive.
No right foot fun until at least oil temp showing 70c.
If you have a manual always start with the clutch to the floor (BMWS make you do this) then hold for 10 seconds.
Add these two situations together and increase wear will take place.
Personally I let the car idle for maybe 30 secs then drive off. Just enough idle to make sure the oil has been around the engine and ready to drive.
No right foot fun until at least oil temp showing 70c.
If you have a manual always start with the clutch to the floor (BMWS make you do this) then hold for 10 seconds.
jaz4 said:
Some of the M-Cars have a variable red line. As the car warms up, the red line moves on the tachometer.