What makes my Z4 special

NewToZ4

Member
Hello!
-So I recently acquired a 2004 z4 e85 2.5i, and I LOVE it, but I do have a couple of questions about its design and how it runs. Specifically with the revs, as there are sometimes when I try to accelerate, and the car actually "fights back" you could say. I push the gas down, and the revs decrease (very weird to experience) before shooting up to where they should be. Seems like either I don't know much about how the car drives, or that there is a bad sensor somewhere.
-Additionally I got probably the most basic model of ever, with no alarm system, no Bluetooth or phone pairing, no footwell lights (long story), so its difficult do determine whether its a lack of equipment or a somethings wrong, unfortunately, which is why I have another question. My car didn't come with the alarm system, nbd, but does that mean that when I lock it its not supposed to flash its lights, or is that something I can still bring to the dealership and they can do for me?
-Lastly, there were animals living in the wire harness of this vehicle behind the "ashtray", so for that being said the only wiring that doesn't seem to work is the heated seats. Unfortunately I have no clue where that wire runs from. With a Foxwell BMW tester, I found that it can sense when I am pressing the button, but the lights come on for 0.1 seconds before turning off and continuing to not work. Anybody know where the wires run so I can check the status of the wires? or does anyone know about that problem and have any possible fixes? Thanks Much!
 
Others are more qualified to answer but I would take a guess that your acceleration issue is the CDV (clutch delay valve) which is a stupid waste of space and should be removed.
 
If both seats do not work, I'd firstly check whether a previous owner has replaced the centre console switch panel with one for heated seats, but not actually put heated seats in.

I'd also check the associated fuse, F16 25Amp.

You may be really unlucky, though, and the mice may have bitten through all the wires to the seats. To test continuity, you can remove the connector from the back of the centre panel and look for the two thick green wires, one with a yellow stripe and the other with a violet stripe, these are the +ve wires to the seats.
The other end of the green +ve wires can be found in the connector block under the seats. The thick brown wires are the -ve (earth).
Make sure you disconnect the battery before pulling the seat connector apart, otherwise you'll get an airbag warning light.
 
Pabby1980 said:
Others are more qualified to answer but I would take a guess that your acceleration issue is the CDV (clutch delay valve) which is a stupid waste of space and should be removed.

If the op is already in gear when he presses the accelerator the cdv shouldn’t be relevant as the clutch isn’t being used.
The exact circumstances are a little unclear :?
Rob
 
I think your best starting point for the hesitation when you drive it might be to get any fault codes identified from the OBD.

I'm guessing you aren't in the UK because my understanding is that all UK Z4s came with the alarm! But I think things like a flash of the indicators on locking (and or a beep) can be programmed if you have the right software.

Good luck getting those issues fixed. :thumbsup:
 
Mr Tidy said:
I think your best starting point for the hesitation when you drive it might be to get any fault codes identified from the OBD.

I'm guessing you aren't in the UK because my understanding is that all UK Z4s came with the alarm! But I think things like a flash of the indicators on locking (and or a beep) can be programmed if you have the right software.

Good luck getting those issues fixed. :thumbsup:
Thanks for the feedback, and yep I am located in the US. Unfortunately though, the only fault code was a Vacuum leak which has now been fixed and the light is now off. Will definitely be getting the flash and or beep done though!
 
Smartbear said:
Pabby1980 said:
Others are more qualified to answer but I would take a guess that your acceleration issue is the CDV (clutch delay valve) which is a stupid waste of space and should be removed.

If the op is already in gear when he presses the accelerator the cdv shouldn’t be relevant as the clutch isn’t being used.
The exact circumstances are a little unclear :?
Rob

Ah cheers for the response. It would be an auto, and yep its usually while already driving not from getup and go. I would just assume its the difference in 6 speed auto versus 5 speed auto, as i have driven a 6 speed my whole driving career, and now am trying to get used to a 5? my guess is that the trans shifts into fifth, and then when i want to accelerate again would be taking time to down shift. Wish i knew more about the circumstances, but unfortunately the issue is somewhat randomized while driving.
 
1. Get the codes cleared and then run the car for a while and read the error codes again.

2. Reset the adaptive driving thing.

3. Fill the car with Shelll V-Power or BP Ultimate or similar fuel. Two tanks should be enough. Drive it around like you stole it for a while.

4. Get the electrics checked as you probably do have an alarm and footwell lights.
 
skelters said:
1. Get the codes cleared and then run the car for a while and read the error codes again.

2. Reset the adaptive driving thing.

3. Fill the car with Shelll V-Power or BP Ultimate or similar fuel. Two tanks should be enough. Drive it around like you stole it for a while.

4. Get the electrics checked as you probably do have an alarm and footwell lights.
Am currently scheduling the electrics check, but how do i reset the adaptive driving thing? cleared codes havent come on, and ran three thanks on 93, which is the highest offered near me!
 
I think it's the throttle body adaptive thingy - here's a link:- https://www.rpmmotorsport.net/pages/bmw-throttle-body-adaptation-reset

But you don't want to be running it on 93 RON fuel too often!

BMW recommend 98RON, but do say it can run on anything above 91RON if you can't get anything better.

I run both my BMWs on 99 RON, or 95 if I really can't find anything better like 97.

If 93 is the best you can get it might be worth trying some octane booster.

Hope you get it sorted. :thumbsup:
 
Mr Tidy said:
I think it's the throttle body adaptive thingy - here's a link:- https://www.rpmmotorsport.net/pages/bmw-throttle-body-adaptation-reset

But you don't want to be running it on 93 RON fuel too often!

BMW recommend 98RON, but do say it can run on anything above 91RON if you can't get anything better.

I run both my BMWs on 99 RON, or 95 if I really can't find anything better like 97.

If 93 is the best you can get it might be worth trying some octane booster.

Hope you get it sorted. :thumbsup:

US octane numbers aren't the same as the UK's - while we use RON, in the US it's an average of RON and MON. In the US, 93 on the pump is usually about 97 RON.
 
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