Water pump pre-emptive

DMike

DMike

Veteran
 Finland
Site Supporter
Hi,

I’d need some advice... I’m intending to do the VANOS seals after the summer and now gathering parts. While dropping the engine I could change the water pump while being there. It’s a 15-years old and 52k miles 3-liter M54 so from milage perspective it’s probably not that worn yet. Is there any sense to do it pre-emptively? BMW oem or any other brand?
 
It and the thermostat are cheap enough parts, and you'll be removing the same parts to get to them, so it does make sense while you're working in the area. I personally used a Meyle replacement pump (metal impellor, rather than the plastic on the factory one) and I believe a Wahler thermostat (who make the BMW badged one)
 
Ok, thanks mjennings23 and ph001. I’ve been tinkering my zed since new but still relatively newbie with engine projects. Most satisfying though.

I figure it’s all about probabilities in the end - how probable is it that the pump will make another 50k miles versus when it finally goes kaput, will that happen on a long roadtrip without warning leaving me stranded in Lappland...

Maybe I’ll just source the parts to have them at least available when starting the VANOS. Then, if I’m lucky, maybe I’ll manage that project without lowering the engine and do the pump later on.

Thanks for the Meyle / Wahler tip, mjennings23!
 
Hi DMike
Having changed my waterpump, thermostat and carried out a VANOS rebuild on my car I agree with mjennings23 comments.
My waterpump developed a leak at just under 79k miles. Yours may be fine and never develop a fault but you never know. I replaced mine with a Meyle item with a metal impeller and Wahler thermostat which have been absolutely fine since. 20181110_153540.jpg
A job I've been meaning to do since I bought the car (and really wish I had !) but only recently got round to was to rebuild my VANOS. This was at 87k miles and I chose to try the 'prying against the front cross-member' method to give enough access for its removal, which worked a treat and is in my opinion a lot less faff than 'the undoing the engine mount/jacking it up' method.

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However, you will definitely need to release the nearside/passenger engine mount and jack the engine up to give you enough access to withdraw the waterpump from its housing. So if you're going to be keeping the car for a while and want to enjoy the engine at its best and with some peace of mind I would say use this method and do all three jobs at the same time :thumbsup:
 
Thank you patriot66 for your input. Yes, this one is certainly a keeper. Bought it new 15 years ago and it became a nice hobby. I have a tiny heated garage and another daily drive so I have plenty of time to do projects in wintertime.

When changing the pump and thermostat, is there other parts that should be changed at the same time? Hoses or thermostat housing? I’ve done the serpentine belt, pulleys and hydraulic tensioner conversion just recently.
 
DMike said:
Thank you patriot66 for your input. Yes, this one is certainly a keeper. Bought it new 15 years ago and it became a nice hobby. I have a tiny heated garage and another daily drive so I have plenty of time to do projects in wintertime.

When changing the pump and thermostat, is there other parts that should be changed at the same time? Hoses or thermostat housing? I’ve done the serpentine belt, pulleys and hydraulic tensioner conversion just recently.
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The thermostat housing isn't a separate item on these engines, the whole thing is replaced as one. Hoses, well they're worth looking at as they do fail, but they're also not the cheapest thing to buy (OEM only really, no decent aftermarket items) and, arguably, it's the o-rings in them that fail so perhaps just replace them? The o-rings around the temp sensor can develop a leak too.

The expansion tanks have a reputation for leaking too, sometimes a slow drain and sometimes a sudden bang. A replacement Hella part is about £30 and worth changing as you'll have the cooling system drained down at the same time. Have a check of the radiator too, look for any bowing at the bottom as that's a sign its on the way out.
 
ph001 said:
No strong reason to change an M54 water pump at 52k miles imho.
Click to expand...

Agreed, OP if you are not having temp issues then save your money and leave it alone.
 
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