Vibra Technics engine mounts
- Thread starter AndyBeech
- Start date
Simon 3.2M
Senior member
Not necessary.
I did them, and I thought it was an improvement.....(so this is based on hands on experience, and I had them in for 6 years now, so enough time to get some experience from that :wink:, and I also have the VT mounts, so I also have experience with both)
Changing transmission mounts is simple, but if you're working with jackstands etc it might be more difficult as you need to be right under the car.
I have a lift, so I look at it from that perspective.
So if you're going to install the VT mounts by hiring a lift at a diy garage for 20 quid, just do the transmission mounts at the same time.
I used ordinairy bobbins/vibration dampeners (correct size and threads of course) in hardness shore 55A (which is already quite a step up from the stock ones) and they cost like a quid/piece so thats not someting to even think about :lol:
I felt that I didnt need to spend more on something thats the same.
I wouldnt install mouts that are like shore80A or so (like you sometimes see with poly transmission mounts), that is way to stiff (unless you have a 100% trackcar)
55A or maybe 60A is already a huge step up.
The load that the transmission is putting on the mounts is (stationairy) not extremely high. If I were to guess maybe 20-30kg or so. You can hold the transmission with your hand in the air with the mounts removed (but obviously you need a jack to hold it there when you start spannering). The mounts are probably there more to keep the side to side movement also in tact (they are mounted under a slight angle)
VT mount:
Transmission mounts OEM and shore55a (I put a ring under the new ones to make up for the 2mm height difference so they're 100% aligned again):
In situ:
Changing transmission mounts is simple, but if you're working with jackstands etc it might be more difficult as you need to be right under the car.
I have a lift, so I look at it from that perspective.
So if you're going to install the VT mounts by hiring a lift at a diy garage for 20 quid, just do the transmission mounts at the same time.
I used ordinairy bobbins/vibration dampeners (correct size and threads of course) in hardness shore 55A (which is already quite a step up from the stock ones) and they cost like a quid/piece so thats not someting to even think about :lol:
I felt that I didnt need to spend more on something thats the same.
I wouldnt install mouts that are like shore80A or so (like you sometimes see with poly transmission mounts), that is way to stiff (unless you have a 100% trackcar)
55A or maybe 60A is already a huge step up.
The load that the transmission is putting on the mounts is (stationairy) not extremely high. If I were to guess maybe 20-30kg or so. You can hold the transmission with your hand in the air with the mounts removed (but obviously you need a jack to hold it there when you start spannering). The mounts are probably there more to keep the side to side movement also in tact (they are mounted under a slight angle)
VT mount:
Transmission mounts OEM and shore55a (I put a ring under the new ones to make up for the 2mm height difference so they're 100% aligned again):
In situ:
Spaniarduk
Member
[ref]wspohn[/ref], what prompted you to replace the engine mounts? Also, what is it that you feel has improved? Mine are ok at only 33k and if I’m honest I’ve never given them any thought as a means to improve the car, but based on what I’m reading everywhere I am feeling very tempted to bite the bullet! I think it’s fair to say that in my particular case ignorance was bliss until I started reading about it! 
I have built and raced sports cars for a long time now, and one common way to improve performance is to reduce compliance in suspension and minimize the range of free motion of major units like engines. That usually comes as a cost - stiffer mounts can result in more vibration transmitted to the chassis.
These cars had a reputation for being hard on certain things including engine mounts and engine mount bolts to the block, so I just changed out as a matter of course when I bought the car. There has been no detrimental effect at all - I wasn't looking for huge improvements but feel that there is less vibration rather than more and things like the shifter dancing about less is one of those positives.
I wouldn't go for race hardness mounts though - you probably would pick up enough vibration transmitted to the chassis to perhaps become bothersome.
These cars had a reputation for being hard on certain things including engine mounts and engine mount bolts to the block, so I just changed out as a matter of course when I bought the car. There has been no detrimental effect at all - I wasn't looking for huge improvements but feel that there is less vibration rather than more and things like the shifter dancing about less is one of those positives.
I wouldn't go for race hardness mounts though - you probably would pick up enough vibration transmitted to the chassis to perhaps become bothersome.
Muckinonthesofa
Member
My Vibra-Technics engine mounts are going on next week, along with gearbox and diff oil change and hopefully the CSL geo set up. The primary reason for the engine mounts is to hopefully improve the gear change. I'll report back on my findings 
Muckinonthesofa said:My Vibra-Technics engine mounts are going on next week, along with gearbox and diff oil change and hopefully the CSL geo set up. The primary reason for the engine mounts is to hopefully improve the gear change. I'll report back on my findings
Getting mine done in a couple of weeks along with OEM trans mounts and rob bearings plus a few other bits. Will probably start another(!)thread documenting the updates and review of parts fitted for anyone that might have interest.
Coming up to 90k miles now so going for a rather large refresh of parts across the board over the rest of the year so will be sharing my findings as I imagine a few people are starting to approach that kind of mileage now!
Look forward to hearing the results when you get yours fitted, was a close call between sticking with OEM mounts and Vibra's after a bit of research but think I've made the right choice....
Muckinonthesofa
Member
AndyBeech said:Muckinonthesofa said:My Vibra-Technics engine mounts are going on next week, along with gearbox and diff oil change and hopefully the CSL geo set up. The primary reason for the engine mounts is to hopefully improve the gear change. I'll report back on my findings
Getting mine done in a couple of weeks along with OEM trans mounts and rob bearings plus a few other bits. Will probably start another(!)thread documenting the updates and review of parts fitted for anyone that might have interest.
Coming up to 90k miles now so going for a rather large refresh of parts across the board over the rest of the year so will be sharing my findings as I imagine a few people are starting to approach that kind of mileage now!
Look forward to hearing the results when you get yours fitted, was a close call between sticking with OEM mounts and Vibra's after a bit of research but think I've made the right choice....
I think you've definitely made the right decision going VT over stock mounts. Everything I've read has been positive about them
There have been reports of VT mounts failing prematurely though.
Tears in rubber and just sagging.
I guess the sagging is to a certain extend natural, as long as they do it evenly and the rubber isn't squished from between the 2 plates.
But those reports are mostly found in the US (on zpost etc).
I dont know if its the climate there or that they're all fitted on z4m's there (heavy cast iron block).
Here are some examples:
One completely destroyed/rubber squished to failure and the other one heavily worn/aged/compressed
https://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1606751&highlight=vibra
A pair in better state, but still 1 is distictively further squished and it looks like the rubber is getting squished from inbetween the plates. And it has little cracks in the rubber.
And these are pictures of unmounted mounts, so there isnt a huge weight resting on them now (if that happens, obvously they get squished more)
https://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1559609&highlight=vibra
So imho they do offer a distinct plus in that they give a better feel of a solid car in short corners, but I have my doubts that they'll have the same lifespan as oem ones.
That said, I had mine in there for 6 years now, which is roughly 35k miles, and are still reasonably OK I guess.
intake side:
exhaust side
The exhaust side carries more weight because of the slant six.
Sadly I have no pictures of how they are when dismounted; they are I guess a bit compressed compared to new, unmounted ones but I dont know how that changes when dismounted. Maybe I look into that in the future. The first pic I posted that one looks less squished, but that was when mounting, so 0 miles.
I guess its not a power issue (or better: torque issue as that determines the forces on the rubbers) because my engine makes more power than the /m and way more torque.
As far as heat goes, I have thinwalled stainless headers there which give off a lot of heat. But they are ceramically coated so I dont know if thats more insulating than a z4m header or not.
Tears in rubber and just sagging.
I guess the sagging is to a certain extend natural, as long as they do it evenly and the rubber isn't squished from between the 2 plates.
But those reports are mostly found in the US (on zpost etc).
I dont know if its the climate there or that they're all fitted on z4m's there (heavy cast iron block).
Here are some examples:
One completely destroyed/rubber squished to failure and the other one heavily worn/aged/compressed
https://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1606751&highlight=vibra
A pair in better state, but still 1 is distictively further squished and it looks like the rubber is getting squished from inbetween the plates. And it has little cracks in the rubber.
And these are pictures of unmounted mounts, so there isnt a huge weight resting on them now (if that happens, obvously they get squished more)
https://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1559609&highlight=vibra
So imho they do offer a distinct plus in that they give a better feel of a solid car in short corners, but I have my doubts that they'll have the same lifespan as oem ones.
That said, I had mine in there for 6 years now, which is roughly 35k miles, and are still reasonably OK I guess.
intake side:
exhaust side
The exhaust side carries more weight because of the slant six.
Sadly I have no pictures of how they are when dismounted; they are I guess a bit compressed compared to new, unmounted ones but I dont know how that changes when dismounted. Maybe I look into that in the future. The first pic I posted that one looks less squished, but that was when mounting, so 0 miles.
I guess its not a power issue (or better: torque issue as that determines the forces on the rubbers) because my engine makes more power than the /m and way more torque.
As far as heat goes, I have thinwalled stainless headers there which give off a lot of heat. But they are ceramically coated so I dont know if thats more insulating than a z4m header or not.
Spaniarduk
Member
wspohn said:
Interesting comment, that. I should assume then that in my particular case my engine mounts are as good as new. The engine in the chassis feels mooth while the gear stick barely moves when going from flat out to overrun. 2nd gear is a little crunchy sometimes, but we all know that's one of the ///M 'traits'....
Thanks for your comments.
Muckinonthesofa
Member
Spaniarduk said:
It's the actual change that's supposed to be improved, and considering the OEM mounts are, by reputation, a weak point, I believe it's a good upgrade
. Either way, I'll soon find out!I’ve fitted some of these yesterday after getting a discount code on eBay. Fairly easy diy. I must say I am quite impressed with the results the just seems much more alert and they have really improved the gear change to that slick bolt action type change, anyone who has driven an s2000 will know what i mean. Has to be the best mod I have done yet .
Spaniarduk
Member
[ref]wspohn[/ref], would it be a like-for-like replacement or uprated bolts? If uprated over the OEM ones what would be the best place to source them?wspohn said:
Spaniarduk
Member
[ref]wspohn[/ref], thanks
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