Vanos rebuild/ refurbishment

rays545i

Member
London
Hi
Can anyone recommend a company that sells a fully refurbished m54 vanos unit
So I can just swap mine over
Seem some on fleabay but based in the states
Thanks
 
I’ve done one, a 3.0i, and I think most time and effort went into taking the VANOS unit out and putting everything back again. Once the unit was out, cleaning and changing the seals and anti-rattle rings was pretty straight forward. Sourcing the correct tools in advance will save a lot of time. The Beisan guide provides a good walkthrough of the process.
 
Thanks mate
After taking out all the nuts holding unit on was there enough room at the front to slide unit out or did you have to remove 1 or2 of the long bolt/studs ?
Thanks
 
rays545i said:
Thanks mate
After taking out all the nuts holding unit on was there enough room at the front to slide unit out or did you have to remove 1 or2 of the long bolt/studs ?
Thanks

Both mine I've done (2.2 and 3.0)

Was expecting battle- on the first I undid the crossmember, engine bolts etc, but with a small push on the front of the engine it cleared the studs
On the 3.0 last week it came out with a very small tilt backwards to the rear of the car

Either I've been lucky with both or its not too bad?
 
bigwinn said:
rays545i said:
Thanks mate
After taking out all the nuts holding unit on was there enough room at the front to slide unit out or did you have to remove 1 or2 of the long bolt/studs ?
Thanks

Both mine I've done (2.2 and 3.0)

Was expecting battle- on the first I undid the crossmember, engine bolts etc, but with a small push on the front of the engine it cleared the studs
On the 3.0 last week it came out with a very small tilt backwards to the rear of the car

Either I've been lucky with both or its not too bad?
You were lucky!
Mine wouldn't come off that way and I didn't like the feel of levering that cross member.
But as I was doing the water pump at the same time I went for unbolting the driver side engine mount and jacking the engine up and down until I got clearance. Sounds drastic, but is simple really. Undo the nut under the mount and make sure you use a block of wood between the jack and the front end of the engine.
Water pump is jack up.
VANOS is lower to get the clearance, but then jack up to get a better access for getting those pesky little covers back into the ends over the torx screws.
 
enuff_zed said:
bigwinn said:
rays545i said:
Thanks mate
After taking out all the nuts holding unit on was there enough room at the front to slide unit out or did you have to remove 1 or2 of the long bolt/studs ?
Thanks

Both mine I've done (2.2 and 3.0)

Was expecting battle- on the first I undid the crossmember, engine bolts etc, but with a small push on the front of the engine it cleared the studs
On the 3.0 last week it came out with a very small tilt backwards to the rear of the car

Either I've been lucky with both or its not too bad?
You were lucky!
Mine wouldn't come off that way and I didn't like the feel of levering that cross member.
But as I was doing the water pump at the same time I went for unbolting the driver side engine mount and jacking the engine up and down until I got clearance. Sounds drastic, but is simple really. Undo the nut under the mount and make sure you use a block of wood between the jack and the front end of the engine.
Water pump is jack up.
VANOS is lower to get the clearance, but then jack up to get a better access for getting those pesky little covers back into the ends over the torx screws.

100% +1 agree on this

I was stood by ready to pop the near side engine bolt to help clearance, and the offside too if needed!
 
Back
Top Bottom