Update: Roof motors suck - received a broken replacement

[brawnyblue]

So I just replaced my motor and put everything back in place.

When I try to open the roof the hooks release and the motor spins put it won't open. The release closes fine again as well. I can move the roof manually.

I suspect its the manual relase/bypass. I have pulled it out and pushed it back in a couple of time, I have adjusted the cable length with the tensioner on the side but now luck. Any ideas or suggestions besides taking the whole think apart again?

UPDATE:

It turns out the new motor I received was faulty... The one screw connecting the hydrolic cables didn't seal tight enough and all the oil escaped the second it was switched on.

I am getting a new motor tomorrow... The second time around I managed to take the roof off, take the motor out and put the new one in within 3.5 hours . I am over it though, it is such a mission getting the hoop in and out. And despite taping the edge out I managed to leave a few scratches. I really am over it...

 

[Anonymous]

Have you had it move at all? if so it is unlikely to be the bypass, maybe needs moving manually a few times to get air out of the hoses. I remember having to do that a few times with mine before it worked fully. If it isn't moving then the bypass might still be being held open, make sure the cable with the red handle is fully back in its holder and not turned.. also, was there enough oil in after the change?

 

[brawnyblue]

Have you had it move at all? if so it is unlikely to be the bypass, maybe needs moving manually a few times to get air out of the hoses. I remember having to do that a few times with mine before it worked fully. If it isn't moving then the bypass might still be being held open, make sure the cable with the red handle is fully back in its holder and not turned.. also, was there enough oil in after the change?

No, it didn't move one put. Only the hooks release. I can open and close it fully manually with the red cable in its proper place. When I pull the cable out I can still move it fine. It makes no difference. It looked like there was enough oil. There was quite a bit in the new motor and I hardly lost any from the cables.

 

[brawnyblue]

I should add: when I put the roof back on I couldn't move it so I pulled the bypass to open it. Since then I have been able to open and close it manually with the bypass open and closed.

 

[Anonymous]

sounds like the bypass is stuck open.... I dont know how you can check without taking it back out unfortunately.
I operated mine roof up and down a few times on the floor by just hooking the motor up to a spare battery, but only moving it 6" each way.

 

[brawnyblue]

sounds like the bypass is stuck open.... I dont know how you can check without taking it back out unfortunately.
I operated mine roof up and down a few times on the floor by just hooking the motor up to a spare battery, but only moving it 6" each way.

That's my suspicion. I wonder if turning the bypass cable all the way around a couple of times may help. I turned it about 3 times by that didn't work. Could I do any damage by turning it say 10 or 15 times?

 

[Anonymous]

I think it should only turn 90 degrees, if you can turn it continually then I would say it is disconnected.
The only saving grace is that you are now familiar with taking the roof out, It will be so much easier this time around... sorry but I think that is the only way open to you now..
While it's out, try the roof with the battery before you refit it, to get the oil circulating and make sure its working and that way you will know that the bypass is in the correct position.

 

[andysat]

Top marks for attempting this mate!

 

[brawnyblue]

I think it should only turn 90 degrees, if you can turn it continually then I would say it is disconnected.
The only saving grace is that you are now familiar with taking the roof out, It will be so much easier this time around... sorry but I think that is the only way open to you now..
While it's out, try the roof with the battery before you refit it, to get the oil circulating and make sure its working and that way you will know that the bypass is in the correct position.

I am also starting to get that feeling. Thanks anyway.

I just had a look at my old motor. The brown button is the bypass which the cable pushes against. Is the bypass activated when the button is released or when it is pressed in?

 

[Anonymous]

The brown button is the bypass which the cable pushes against. Is the bypass activated when the button is released or when it is pressed in?

Sorry Tim, I didn't take much notice of it, as it was not something I had a problem with on mine, I can't remember TBH.

 

[brawnyblue]

UPDATE:

It turns out the new motor I received was faulty... The one screw connecting the hydrolic cables didn't seal tight enough and all the oil escaped the second it was switched on.

I am getting a new motor tomorrow... The second time around I managed to take the roof off, take the motor out and put the new one in within 3.5 hours . I am over it though, it is such a mission getting the hoop in and out. And despite taping the edge out I managed to leave a few scratches. I really am over it...

 

[pog451]

I am also starting to get that feeling. Thanks anyway.

I just had a look at my old motor. The brown button is the bypass which the cable pushes against. Is the bypass activated when the button is released or when it is pressed in?

The bypass cable hooks into a plastic lever that presses on the bypass button (which should be brass). Its in bypass when its pushed in. As the hook end is a moulded on barrel (like a push-bike brake cable) it shouldnt rotate more than about 90° so if you can turn it easily its almost certainly disenganged. It springs back using the button spring only so if the bypass button seizes up in the "bypass" position, the lever flaps loose and the cable can come out.

BTW - You can get at the pump by just opening one side of the roof rather than taking the whole thing off - That how I refurbed my pump this summer.

Are you sure your old motor is really junk or is it just seized? they can usually be persuaded to spring back to life with some WD40 and TLC.

 

[brawnyblue]

I am also starting to get that feeling. Thanks anyway.

I just had a look at my old motor. The brown button is the bypass which the cable pushes against. Is the bypass activated when the button is released or when it is pressed in?

The bypass cable hooks into a plastic lever that presses on the bypass button (which should be brass). Its in bypass when its pushed in. As the hook end is a moulded on barrel (like a push-bike brake cable) it shouldnt rotate more than about 90° so if you can turn it easily its almost certainly disenganged. It springs back using the button spring only so if the bypass button seizes up in the "bypass" position, the lever flaps loose and the cable can come out.

BTW - You can get at the pump by just opening one side of the roof rather than taking the whole thing off - That how I refurbed my pump this summer.

Are you sure your old motor is really junk or is it just seized? they can usually be persuaded to spring back to life with some WD40 and TLC.

Thanks, turned out the first replacement I received was faulty. Got a new working one. You are right, the old motor is working again but I was unable to return the new one... ah well