Track prepping my E85 ?

[ScoobyR1]

Hi guys,

It's quite limiting having to use hand controls, which means that there are very few options to get track kicks. So I've decided to prep my Z4 for the track.

I'm looking for recommendations for ARB's. I have limited funds so need to keep it within the realms of affordability.
Ideas I've got so far are poly bushing the lollipops, RTAB and front and rear ARB's.
I'm keeping the suspension standard for the time being as I've just changed out the dampers. I've got the E46 325mm bigger brakes fitted. Maybe recommendations for tyres too, as I'm sure the RS3's I have whilst being good on road, might be a bit pushed for track use.
Thanks in advance

 

[ph001]

The only thing that will really spoil your fun on track is brake fade. I realise you have upgraded the discs, but make sure you have decent pads in there to match.

In terms of the ARB's, I would echo the comments made here.... https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=116253&hilit=arb&start=15

 

[TomK]

I'd say get it on track first and then figure out what you might want. As above, brakes are the real weak point initially, so decent pads and fluid are a must really. Imo it's worth initially spending a bit more as they will take the abuse better and ultimately end up cheaper as they will last longer.
RS3 I assume you mean rainsport 3s? Whilst a great road tyre and also great on a wet track they will get killed very very quickly if it happens to be a dry day.
Have fun

 

[bearded_ed]

Whilst a great road tyre and also great on a wet track they will get killed very very quickly if it happens to be a dry day

Damn! I'm just thinking about my first track day too, and I have a full set of RS3s on now less than a couple hundred miles old. Will I actually kill them?

 

[Jembo]

If you’d like extra camber on the front, I have a brand new set of offset Z4M lollipops u can have for £40

 

[Davz]

thicker arb's really do make a difference in both the wet and dry, I would say you really need them on the track........if bmw thought it appropriate for the z4m to have 27mm front and 22.5 rear it must be for a good reason. I have 27 and 22 setup and cornering speed is higher.

 

[ScoobyR1]

thicker arb's really do make a difference in both the wet and dry, I would say you really need them on the track........if bmw thought it appropriate for the z4m to have 27mm front and 22.5 rear it must be for a good reason. I have 27 and 22 setup and cornering speed is higher.

That's good information thank you. I was looking at this already but now you have just confirmed it for me

 

[ScoobyR1]

If you’d like extra camber on the front, I have a brand new set of offset Z4M lollipops u can have for £40

Thanks for that generous offer, going to ask a silly question, I take these effectively angle the front wheels slightly outwards at the bottom edge? How will this affect the handling/tyre wear on the road?

 

[ScoobyR1]

I'd say get it on track first and then figure out what you might want. As above, brakes are the real weak point initially, so decent pads and fluid are a must really. Imo it's worth initially spending a bit more as they will take the abuse better and ultimately end up cheaper as they will last longer.
RS3 I assume you mean rainsport 3s? Whilst a great road tyre and also great on a wet track they will get killed very very quickly if it happens to be a dry day.
Have fun

Thanks for that response, yes I was referring to Rainsports, would you have any recommendations for a road legal track oriented tyre?
ATM I'm using Mtec discs and standard Brembo pads.

 

[ScoobyR1]

The only thing that will really spoil your fun on track is brake fade. I realise you have upgraded the discs, but make sure you have decent pads in there to match.

In terms of the ARB's, I would echo the comments made here.... https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=116253&hilit=arb&start=15

Thanks for that

 

[ScoobyR1]

If you’d like extra camber on the front, I have a brand new set of offset Z4M lollipops u can have for £40

Pm sent

 

[Liam22]

If you’d like extra camber on the front, I have a brand new set of offset Z4M lollipops u can have for £40

Thanks for that generous offer, going to ask a silly question, I take these effectively angle the front wheels slightly outwards at the bottom edge?

They do not.

They move the wheel forwards, increasing castor. Camber difference is negligible.

Increased camber needs the top of the damper moving inboard.

 

[ScoobyR1]

If you’d like extra camber on the front, I have a brand new set of offset Z4M lollipops u can have for £40

Thanks for that generous offer, going to ask a silly question, I take these effectively angle the front wheels slightly outwards at the bottom edge?

They do not.

They move the wheel forwards, increasing castor. Camber difference is negligible.

Increased camber needs the top of the damper moving inboard.

Thanks for clearing that up, how does the increase in Castor improve feel/roadholding?

 

[buzyg]

I'd say get it on track first and then figure out what you might want. As above, brakes are the real weak point initially, so decent pads and fluid are a must really. Imo it's worth initially spending a bit more as they will take the abuse better and ultimately end up cheaper as they will last longer.
RS3 I assume you mean rainsport 3s? Whilst a great road tyre and also great on a wet track they will get killed very very quickly if it happens to be a dry day.
Have fun

Thanks for that response, yes I was referring to Rainsports, would you have any recommendations for a road legal track oriented tyre?
ATM I'm using Mtec discs and standard Brembo pads.

Michelin Pilot Super Sport come highly recommended for fun road and track work.
Several forum members now on the MPS4 too

 

[TomK]

thicker arb's really do make a difference in both the wet and dry, I would say you really need them on the track........if bmw thought it appropriate for the z4m to have 27mm front and 22.5 rear it must be for a good reason. I have 27 and 22 setup and cornering speed is higher.

Whilst I'm no chassis engineer I'd hazard a guess that the reason is that the M version weighs around 150kg more (most of which lies at the front of the car).
Bigger is not necessarily better and I would be very wary of changing the balance front to rear when fiddling around with ARBs, you'll just be inducing more over or understeer in certain conditions. If I were to change my arbs it would be for adjustable versions, as quite often say in the wet the last thing you want is a stiffer arb on the rear, it would be nice to have the option to soften it off.
Happy though that you feel it allows you to corner faster, obviously works for you.

Thanks for that response, yes I was referring to Rainsports, would you have any recommendations for a road legal track oriented tyre?
ATM I'm using Mtec discs and standard Brembo pads.

Assuming you were keeping the RS3s for road and wet track duty I'd be looking at something like a mid/budget price road/track tyre like Yoko AD08r (best of these 3) , Nankang NS2R (not the soft compound) or federal 595rsr. They'll withstand the abuse better than a more road orientated tyre like an MPS4 for instance and are a fair but cheaper.
Have you had the geo done recently? If not maybe get that checked and whilst there try and get them to wind as much front camber on the car as you can, that will help your tyre life amongst other things.
For the brakes the standard brembo pads I think will be your limiting factor, maybe look at something like EBC blue stuff which are not too expensive and designed for higher temperatures. Also, when was your fluid last changed and do you know what was used? If you don't know when I would strongly advise changing it, something like Motol RBF600 would be decent and again not too expensive.
All that said, a lot will come down to your driving style/abilities and what you want out of the experience. As I said originally I'd just make sure your standard car is in good mechanical shape, get it on track and see where you think it could use improvement before chucking money at stuff that might not need to be changed for some while. It's an expensive enough hobby as it is :lol:

 

[Piper1]

I'd also look at some obvious wear and tear items if you haven't yet. First track day I was at with zed was over before it began. My expansion tank took a s**t as I pulled in to the paddock with no tale tell signs of wear prior and I had went through my tech sheet the night before. Was the first day the car saw 30 degree morning temps in a few years so if you haven't done some of the preventative I'd look there be for too many mods. As most said some basics on brakes and have fun.

 

[ScoobyR1]

thicker arb's really do make a difference in both the wet and dry, I would say you really need them on the track........if bmw thought it appropriate for the z4m to have 27mm front and 22.5 rear it must be for a good reason. I have 27 and 22 setup and cornering speed is higher.

Whilst I'm no chassis engineer I'd hazard a guess that the reason is that the M version weighs around 150kg more (most of which lies at the front of the car).
Bigger is not necessarily better and I would be very wary of changing the balance front to rear when fiddling around with ARBs, you'll just be inducing more over or understeer in certain conditions. If I were to change my arbs it would be for adjustable versions, as quite often say in the wet the last thing you want is a stiffer arb on the rear, it would be nice to have the option to soften it off.
Happy though that you feel it allows you to corner faster, obviously works for you.

Thanks for that response, yes I was referring to Rainsports, would you have any recommendations for a road legal track oriented tyre?
ATM I'm using Mtec discs and standard Brembo pads.

Assuming you were keeping the RS3s for road and wet track duty I'd be looking at something like a mid/budget price road/track tyre like Yoko AD08r (best of these 3) , Nankang NS2R (not the soft compound) or federal 595rsr. They'll withstand the abuse better than a more road orientated tyre like an MPS4 for instance and are a fair but cheaper.
Have you had the geo done recently? If not maybe get that checked and whilst there try and get them to wind as much front camber on the car as you can, that will help your tyre life amongst other things.
For the brakes the standard brembo pads I think will be your limiting factor, maybe look at something like EBC blue stuff which are not too expensive and designed for higher temperatures. Also, when was your fluid last changed and do you know what was used? If you don't know when I would strongly advise changing it, something like Motol RBF600 would be decent and again not too expensive.
All that said, a lot will come down to your driving style/abilities and what you want out of the experience. As I said originally I'd just make sure your standard car is in good mechanical shape, get it on track and see where you think it could use improvement before chucking money at stuff that might not need to be changed for some while. It's an expensive enough hobby as it is :lol:

That's a great deal of information thank you so much and I echo the salient points of keeping it as cheap as possible and reliable

 

[ScoobyR1]

I'd also look at some obvious wear and tear items if you haven't yet. First track day I was at with zed was over before it began. My expansion tank took a s**t as I pulled in to the paddock with no tale tell signs of wear prior and I had went through my tech sheet the night before. Was the first day the car saw 30 degree morning temps in a few years so if you haven't done some of the preventative I'd look there be for too many mods. As most said some basics on brakes and have fun.

Thanks for that, I have just passed 70 k miles and replaced the radiator, which was leaking, but replaced the expansion tank which wasn't leaking! As you can attest they are prone to failure on age!
I've recently changed out the brake fluid 3 month's ago, but I'll replace this just before the track day. I've got new hoses around and I'll do an engine oil change prior.

 

[Kev]

First track day this year in my Z, full service including brake fluid fitted, strut brace, braided hoses and fitted spax suspension kit (2 front shocks had gone anyway) so kit was only a couple hundred more than the two shocks. Result not to bad but brakes shot by second session Race/ track compound pads absolute most.

Second track day Porsche boxter calipers, 345mm discs, Pagid RS29 pads, bucket seat and harness's glorious sunshine, brakes were mega all day long, expansion tank pin holed loosing water. For £25 pattern part change it as well. Standard ARB's but poly bushed as is diff frame, using yokohama AD08's on rear at moment really liking them







Plan on doing a lot more track days next year probably try and get another in this year, good luck

 

[brillomaster]

The only things I've done to my track prepped Z4 are a set of track oriented tyres (Federal 595 RSRs, 245 front 255 rear), and decent brake pads and fluid (Performance friction PF08s, and some of their performance brake fluid, RH665). That setup has done me just fine for trackdays at Bedford, Donington, Snetterton, Oulton Park and Spa Francorchamps.

Everything else is standard - still on standard 3.0i discs and calipers, still standard suspension. Only other slight mod I've made is removing the front fogs for increased brake cooling, as the front brakes were getting a bit toasty. Personally I don't really rate EBC stuff... sure performance friction pads are twice the price, but so far they've lasted 5 times as long.