Taking roof apart

domsz4

Senior member
Anyone takes their roof apart, I'm trying to get to the roof hooks at the front. I thought they would just be behind the plastic cover but it looks like they are inside the bit the actual fabric is attached to.

It looks very much like the front of the fabric is screwed to the underside of that bit of the frame but I don't want to disturb it before I have an idea of how it fits together
 
Never taken the roof apart, I don't know if realoem will help you http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partgrp.do?model=BT52&mospid=47797&hg=54
 
Dom , i know you are well capable mate but are you not digging your ditch deeper here :? maybe time to take stock & drop the car at a recognised Indy ?
Get it sorted & get back out in it :wink:
 
I did, a place in queens ferry. Trenics. They did a diagnostic for and hr or so and said it was the motor and wanted 1500-1900 quid to change it. I'm not far off admitting defeat but before I do I just wanted to check out this sensor.

The error code is thrown up when the roof stops mid raise and it's always the vsw 4.1 short to ground. The inpa software happily runs the roof till this point
They are 30 quid ish from soapers I had a good chat with them on Friday. They were as confused as I was to what it could be
 
Dude, have u checked the wiring loom along the nearside of the roof, the mechanism managed to munch through mine over time and the roof would stop mid way!
 
This is the third thread you have started related to the same issue.

For users who may later want to reference here are the other two:

http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=70747&p=1039535#p1039535

http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=70573&p=1036764#p1036764
 
edgie said:
Dude, have u checked the wiring loom along the nearside of the roof, the mechanism managed to munch through mine over time and the roof would stop mid way!


where abouts was it? i checked some but not all when the roof was out. tbf it wasnt a decent check as my dad didnt have a multimeter and i forgot mine. easy enough to to do tho just more difficult to get in when it in the car.

i wondered where that thread had gone sniffer, just thought i'd been a div and not hit the post button as i was out in the garage and just on the limit of my wifi.

incidentally that motor works fine on the bench i can post a pic of it in bits if anyone is interested. shame we cant source these from anywhere. they are simply a dc motor with little feed back from the looks of it. just pull current as they need it.
 
It is better if it is all in one thread pal, hence my putting the links to the others.

You are obviously a bit handy with the spanners and I am sure at some point in the future, someone will google that fault code and it will come up with the thread which then goes nowhere as we carried on over here.

As I said in the other thread, it sounds to me like you have an issue with the wiring loom and you will find that there is a short in the wiring or a connector - likely in an area where it moves and bends and has got chaffed over time.

You will have to diagnose it with a meter, continuity testing and find where something is shorting to ground.

You know of the BMW wiring diagram website = http://www.bmw-planet.com/diagrams/release/en/

On here you will be able to see the wiring including the colours.
 
Just found this which is useful on the WDS link I posted above:

Hall sensors

In order to detect the convertible top position and the two final positions of the locking mechanism, non-contact switches (Hall sensors) are used. The Hall sensors for identification of the convertible top position are fitted on the right-hand main convertible top bearing. The Hall sensors for the cowl panel lock are located on the cowl panel lock in the front convertible top bow strut. The information from the Hall sensors is processed in the convertible top module IV (CVM IV).
Convertible top compartment floor switch

The convertible top compartment switch is an earth-switching contact that generates the signal ”Floor down” when the convertible top compartment floor is located in the lowest position. As long as this information is not present, the soft top cannot be unlocked and opened.
The convertible top compartment floor switch is fitted on the folding mechanism of the convertible top compartment floor.
Hardtop locating points

Contact plates are fitted in each of the two hardtop locating points at the main convertible top bearings. Each contact plate has a contact for power supply of the rear window heating and a contact for hardtop detection.
Main functions

It is possible to open / close the convertible top by means of:
Convertible top switch (open and close)
Convenience closing and convenience opening
via door lock or remote control (coding-data-dependent!)

The following conditions must be met at one time for automatic movement of the top:
General module can lower the window without faults
Vehicle standstill (v < 4 km/h)
No hardtop fitted (only applies to closing)
Ignition key position as of terminal R (not in the case of convenience function)
No short circuit and no breaks in wiring present
Outside temperature has not fallen below limit value
 
domsz4 said:
edgie said:
Dude, have u checked the wiring loom along the nearside of the roof, the mechanism managed to munch through mine over time and the roof would stop mid way!


where abouts was it? i checked some but not all when the roof was out. tbf it wasnt a decent check as my dad didnt have a multimeter and i forgot mine. easy enough to to do tho just more difficult to get in when it in the car.

i wondered where that thread had gone sniffer, just thought i'd been a div and not hit the post button as i was out in the garage and just on the limit of my wifi.

incidentally that motor works fine on the bench i can post a pic of it in bits if anyone is interested. shame we cant source these from anywhere. they are simply a dc motor with little feed back from the looks of it. just pull current as they need it.
It was on the nearside, if u open roof about half way u can get hand in between inner linning and mech, that way u can see and feel loom, its cable tied around the mechanism!
 
taa laa, sniffer its the one in the top bow strut that im trying to get to. i didn't know about that that site tho so thanks for that. the loom would be my final point to try, like you said continual bending may have caused a fracture.

anyhoo its all going to have to wait till i get back from holiday, any spare time i have between now and leaving is reserved to for getting my other car cylinder head to the porters nd the beer bottled :D
 
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