Steering column change - fail - FIXED.

[enuff_zed]

A friend had an issue with a torque sensor fail code in his E85.
We have cleaned, adjusted, recalibrated the steering angle sensor and swapped the EPS motor.
Eventually agreed it would have to be a column change.
Just completed it this afternoon. Cleared all the codes and started it up. Immediately got the yellow steering wheel light and no power steering.
Sport button still works.
Codes as follows (all of which clear ok, but make no difference, and come back the next time you start)
611C Steering Torque (this was the original code too)
0B Sensor/vehicle allocation incorrect or not available (under 'Steering Angle Sensor')
Data stream for Steering angle sits at -1439.24 and doesn't change whatever you do with the wheel.

Do I need to code the SAS? Or calibrate it? I'm a tad lost.
I was led to believe it would be a plug and play thing as I've changed the complete column, motor and SAS all together.

 

[enuff_zed]

Well this finally pushed me over the edge and into the 21st century.
Used Tool32 and INPA following Zedebee's guide and the SAS is now fully functioning correctly.
However, still got the Torque sensor code!

Unless anyone else has any ideas I am thinking I've been unlucky and the replacement column has the same fault.

If you think otherwise, please shout before we commit to an expensive overhaul.

 

[enuff_zed]

Sorted.
A lesson learned as well. Never under-estimate your own abilities to f**k things up.
Somehow I'd got the plug from the torque sensor to the EPS ECU misaligned and bent one of the pins.
All sorted and it works perfectly.
Phew!

 

[enuff_zed]

On the plus side, I estimate the total job from start to finish (excluding my self-imposed rework) took about 4 hours, far less than I feared.

A tip for anyone swapping a whole column: to prevent damage to the lower extending column section in the engine bay, instead of yanking the column out, leave a couple of bolts in to hold it steady, then lever the UJ back down into the engine bay, thus compressing the lower section instead of potentially over-extending it. Same applies on refit: column bolted loosely in place then push the UJ back up the splines.

 

[inkey$]

result! Time to chalk up another win, Martin!

 

[enuff_zed]

result! Time to chalk up another win, Martin!

Well it's kept another owner happy.
He won't mind me saying he's saving hard for his daughter's wedding and this fix has helped him no end.
I should also acknowledge [ref]bigwinn[/ref]'s, input. He drove all the way over from Lincoln to try adjusting and calibrating the SAS and save the inevitable bigger job. Didn't work in the end but cheers Stuart.

 

[inkey$]

Dream team

 

[FunkyGBrown]

Thought about giving the hydraulic steering conversion a go yet?

 

[enuff_zed]

Thought about giving the hydraulic steering conversion a go yet?

Nope!

 

[inkey$]

Thought about giving the hydraulic steering conversion a go yet?

Nope!

I watched this video at the weekend of a guy 'straight swapping' the steering from an E36 to a Z4 that apparently bolted straight on to cure sticky steering (with some bending).

[youtube]nwek4T_J8hQ[/youtube]

 

[raymond.harper]

Thought about giving the hydraulic steering conversion a go yet?

Nope!

I watched this video at the weekend of a guy 'straight swapping' the steering from an E36 to a Z4 that apparently bolted straight on to cure sticky steering (with some bending).

[youtube]nwek4T_J8hQ[/youtube]

I have done this conversion. The intermediate shaft he forgets to mention is from a Z4M and costs north of 350 pounds. Factor in a new rack, pipes, pump, and so forth bringing the price up even more. Also, there is a fall in fuel consumption. It makes far more economic sense just to have the existing system fixed.