Speaker replacement reccomendations

[Rufus59]

Not very keen on the standard audio system on my z4, being the 6 speaker base spec system.

From what I've read in other threads:

Tweeter 4ohm
Door speaker: Non existent but 4ohm when fitted 4"
Footwell: 2ohm 6.5"

Based on those sizes, what would you guys recommend? I'm a total novice when it comes to car audio, although I do know my way around a car. I'd like to avoid crossovers and anything amplified, just a simple plug and play type thing with a bit of modifying the wiring harnesses where needed.

Thanks in advance

 

[dhobbs]

I put some Pioneer 4" 2 way speakersin the door (used the tweeter wiring).
I'm planning on putting some 6x9 in the cubby holes and using the wiring from the rear speakers (disconnecting them at the same time)
I may replace the footwell ones but one thing at a time.

I'll be interested in what others recommend too.
Daz

 

[cj10jeeper]

I added door speakers as above. Can't remember the make, but note that standard bmw speakers in the doors have a triangular base and 3 bolt mount compared to the standard more square 4 bolt mount. Some inner doorcard fettling is required and they need to be shallow enough to clear the glass

 

[Rufus59]

Thanks for the pointers so far, I'm leaning away from upgrading the 6.5" footwell sub as I have read that it can be a bit disappointing vs the OEM performance anyway, presumably because you're still using the Headhunt amp.

Am I right in thinking that crossovers are not required if I splice into the tweeter before the in-line capacitor? Or would it be better to buy a component system with crossovers and wire the tweeter in to the crossover and then out of the crossover to the tweeter and 4".

Is there any benefit from doing this?

 

[dhobbs]

I disconnected the tweeters as the new door ones were two way, mid and a tweeter.

Can't remember if the existing tweeters have capacitors.

 

[Bluecat]

Theres a really good post on here somewhere in the how to section showing a step by step guide to fitting speakers in the doors where the blanking plates are. I did this on my 2008 coupe and the improvement in sound quality is amazing.

 

[Rufus59]

Yeah I've had a read of it, very good write up What speakers did you fit? I don't know if to go component systems or as dhobbs has and fit 4" two way co-ax in the doors.

 

[vester86]

I went for a set of 3-way Focal http://www.focal.com/en/car-audio/car-audio-kits-solutions/performance/expert/component-kits/ps-165-f3
I really like it, especially the mids & the high tones. Also the soundstage is massivly improved, The lows are going really deep (sub low) but i'm missing a little body sometimes.

 

[Rufus59]

That system would be my ideal, but it's a bit outside of where my budget is sitting at the moment. I've spent a lot on the z recently and the wifes patience will eventually wear out :rofl: besides, the system I had in my Kuga which was the basic Titanium sport system, was perfectly adequate for me - so I'm just looking to replicate that really.

Was looking at something like this to get me going http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/speakers/full-range/4-inch-coax-10cm/focal-performance-pc100

 

[dhobbs]

Those focal look good, not bad price either.
As with any audio setup it's important to set a budget as we all know it the law of diminishing returns.
Adding the door speakers will make a big difference anyway. Go for it

 

[dhobbs]

Whilst you have the door cards off its a good idea to check the door seal/membrane for any tears or if it's come unstuck. This will stop water leaks later on.
Kill two birds with one stone.

 

[vester86]

Make that 3, by adding some sound deadener/dynamat to the doors.

 

[Bluecat]

I used the Hertz DCx100 as recommended in the write up. £42 on Ebay from Fast Audio direct

 

[chapeau]

I'm hoping to tackle something similar in the summer. Door sound deadening and speakers. I'm not a massive music man but would like some extra sound as the current basic system is lacking volume. I'll probably just buy some of the Philips BMW speakers that came out of a Z4 off ebay as I know they'll fit ok.

 

[soundb0y]

Also interested in hearing about replacement tweeters that fit as one of mine has blown.

 

[Rufus59]

Well now I am confused... had a listen with my ear right against where the door speaker should be and I could clearly hear sound coming from there. So either I have the mid level sound system or someone has fitted something there previously... did the mid level system come with the subs behind the seats? I definitely don't have dsp...

 

[Magicarcher]

Well now I am confused... had a listen with my ear right against where the door speaker should be and I could clearly hear sound coming from there. So either I have the mid level sound system or someone has fitted something there previously... did the mid level system come with the subs behind the seats? I definitely don't have dsp...

Shine a light in the grille and see if you can see the cone or dustcap of the speaker. As standard the 4" grill has a plastic plate behind it to block it off.

 

[Magicarcher]

Thanks for the pointers so far, I'm leaning away from upgrading the 6.5" footwell sub as I have read that it can be a bit disappointing vs the OEM performance anyway, presumably because you're still using the Headhunt amp.

There are two reasons:

1) The one you mention, the standard head unit will have been designed to a tight budget, it will not be an audiophile specification and will not use audiophile components. The power output I believe is around 6W RMS per channel
2) The one most people overlook. The footwell speaker is fitted into a sealed enclosure of approx 10L, this is very small for a 6.5" driver and will over-dampen the driver which will limit its excursion and raise the lower cut-off frequency which will reduce the bass output. It can work but it will need a very compliant speaker. Unfortunately most two or three way component speaker systems provide general purpose drivers designed to work with a wide range of enclosure sizes and they are unlikely to work well in such a small enclosure. The key thin to realise, speaker parameters in isolation are not what matters because all speaker parameters are modified the second they are installed in an enclosure.

That said changing the footwell speakers is still likely to be beneficial because they are likely to be a great deal more sensitive than the standard speakers. the reason is they are likely to be more sensitive and hence create greater sound pressure for a given input power. Like the head unit the speakers will have been designed to a cost and weight target, this will have a detrimental effect on the speaker sensitivity because high speaker sensitivities comes from: large voice coils, powerful magnets (either large heavy ones or high power expensive ones such as neodymium) or very light weight cones. All a no no when the designer has tough targets to hit. I don't know the sensitivity value for the standard speakers but I would guess it would be around 84dB/w. This is probably why they use 2 ohm impedance footwell speakers to ensure greater power to compensate for the lower sensitivity. Typical component systems will have speakers with 90-92 dB/w. This is like increasing the output power of the amplifier without changing the head unit.

 

[Magicarcher]

I went for a set of 3-way Focal http://www.focal.com/en/car-audio/car-audio-kits-solutions/performance/expert/component-kits/ps-165-f3

That system would be my ideal, but it's a bit outside of where my budget is sitting at the moment.

Why not consider the smaller companion from Focal the 165AS3. I have just fitted these to my Z4 and they offer a great improvement. Currently selling for £137 on Amazon.

 

[Rufus59]

Thanks for the comprehensive response. That makes sense to me and working in the auto industry myself I am all too aware of needing to hit cost and weight targets :rofl: I can imagine speakers get a particularly hard time. These look like a good deal https://www.amazon.co.uk/Focal-165-AS3-Component-Speakers/dp/B00J7OV2MK I may wait and see how I get on now that my FM aerial has been fixed and when my Grom turns up.
I miss the system I had in my old E85 roaster
I wasn't able to see through the grill unfortunately, even with a torch. The grille mesh seemed too dense.