Sound deadening and door speaker install

[PerryGunn]

Due to PhotoBucket's removal of their 3rd party image hosting facility without paying exorbitant fees, I've recreated the how-to using forum-hosted images

As there is a limit to the number of images that can be attached to each post, I couldn't just edit this first post and insert the new images, so I've had to split it into two posts that are now on page 2 of this thread

 

[NeilP]

Excellent work! Looks fantastic (bet it sounds good too)

How did you find using silent coat?

 

[PerryGunn]

Excellent work! Looks fantastic (bet it sounds good too)

How did you find using silent coat?

Silent Coat was very easy to work with, the 4mm is great on the large flat areas while the 2mm moulds around curves easily and is fairly easy to cut into more intricate shapes - and, now, if I rap on the outside of the doors I get a dull thud instead of something that sounds like an empty oil barrel

The music seems to sound better too, it's a fuller sound with a bit more definition to the bass and the additional tweeter doesn't seem to make things too bright - that said, I'm getting to the age where I'm starting to lose sensitivity at the top end

 

[Danderton]

Great write up. Thanks will be of use to me in the near future!

 

[NeilP]

Good to hear! My one concern about you using a coaxil is no more!

Enjoy!

 

[Chiddy]

Good post.

Will probably be doing this soon too, have been looking to do just this since I got the car, like you said the horrid door shutting noise really doesn't match the rest of the car.

 

[T2FFN]

How many packs of the sound deadening material did you use?

 

[PerryGunn]

How many packs of the sound deadening material did you use?

I got one pack of the Silent Coat Extra which is 6 x 4mm sheets and I used 3 on each door, plus one volume pack (20 sheets) of the standard 2mm Silent Coat, of which I used about 12 sheets in total. But I probably put on a bit too much and I think that a single volume pack would be enough to do both doors

Some was wasted when trimming for the door cards but, from the pack weights, I can estimate that the added weight was between 7 and 8lbs per door - or, overall, about the same as 2 gallons of petrol

 

[aquazi]

Great write up.

I want to change my door speakers doesnt seem to hard with this.


Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

 

[PerryGunn]

Great write up.

I want to change my door speakers doesnt seem to hard with this.

It's very straightforward, the way I did it, the hardest bit was the soldering - If I did it again, and with the benefit of hindsight, I'd probably tap into the feed lower down and crimp a bullet socket onto the car side of the feed and then crimp both the door speaker and tweeter feed together into a bullet plug, it would be neat and easier than soldering.

 

[MrPT]

Brilliant write-up.

I'm trying to find the time to fit speakers in my doors (also have the 6 speaker system), but I think I'll leave the deadening as the doors don't sound too bad - I think the facelift might be slightly better in this respect.

 

[KERMIT1970]

Good job Always thought the same when shutting the doors,sounds tinny. Where did you get the sound deadening from ? Was looking at dynamat but it cost a fortune

 

[PerryGunn]

Good job Always thought the same when shutting the doors,sounds tinny. Where did you get the sound deadening from ? Was looking at dynamat but it cost a fortune

I looked at Dynamat too but decided it was a rip off, the reviews of Silent Coat were very good so I went with that.

You can get both types from Car Audio Direct's eBay store (and other places but, at the time, they worked out cheapest)
- Silent Coat Extra (6 x 4mm sheets) @ £24.99 delivered
- Silent Coat Volume Pack (20 x 2mm sheets) @ £44.99 delivered

As I said earlier, I think that the Volume Pack would be enough to do both doors - I've still got several sheets left but, if I decide to replace the footwell speakers, I'll use it to cover that area

 

[KERMIT1970]

Thanks for that will order it up cheers

 

[markeg]

Nice write up, Perry! Now just need a free weekend to get it done :roll:


Tapatalking...

 

[PerryGunn]

Nice write up, Perry! Now just need a free weekend to get it done :roll:

You don't need a whole weekend, I did one side Saturday afternoon and the other Sunday morning so you can easily do it all in a day.

Working slowly and methodically it too me about 3.5 hours for the drivers side and then, because I knew what I was doing, about an hour less for the passenger side - and I think by connecting to the tweeter feed lower in the door and using crimp connectors instead of soldering, it should be even faster.

 

[Dev]

Really nice write up, this is something I've been meaning to do for ages and still haven't reached the point of collecting the parts!

Question - did you block up the bit where the airbag 'bursts through' with the silent coat, or did you do a perforation along the same line? Just curious as I don't know if the 2mm Silent Coat would 'split' if the airbag deployed?

Another question (sorry!) - how noticeable is the change in sound now that you have the extra mid-range in the doors? Do you have to adjust the settings on your head unit to compensate for the extra speakers (turn up the volume, adjust the front/rear bias?) compared to what you would have used before? Just curious as I would also want to keep the standard head unit to keep an OEM appearance but also want to know if it struggles to drive the extra speakers (not that I want it super loud or anything).

 

[RJS-Z4]

Could not actually be a better time for you to post this thread, thanking you, and the quality of the write up is awesome!!!

A question if I may, when I last looked at the tweeter wiring, it looks a little "thin" to be powering anything of any size? You had any issues?

 

[PerryGunn]

Really nice write up, this is something I've been meaning to do for ages and still haven't reached the point of collecting the parts!

Question - did you block up the bit where the airbag 'bursts through' with the silent coat, or did you do a perforation along the same line? Just curious as I don't know if the 2mm Silent Coat would 'split' if the airbag deployed?

Another question (sorry!) - how noticeable is the change in sound now that you have the extra mid-range in the doors? Do you have to adjust the settings on your head unit to compensate for the extra speakers (turn up the volume, adjust the front/rear bias?) compared to what you would have used before? Just curious as I would also want to keep the standard head unit to keep an OEM appearance but also want to know if it struggles to drive the extra speakers (not that I want it super loud or anything).

Yes, before mounting the door card I sliced the silent coat lengthways along the centre of the airbag 'pocket' in the door card, I took the picture before making the cut and I nearly forgot to cut it until my son mentioned it - and I also forgot to mention it in the write up so thanks for reminding me (EDIT: now added to the writeup )

I didn't have to adjust things much, my settings had a slight forward bias anyway, I had a play with the controls and they ended up pretty much where they were before - most of this is personal preference so you just set thing how it sounds best to you. One of the reasons I picked the Hertz speakers was because they are easy to drive (92db SPL) and the OEM headunit copes with them without any problems

 

[PerryGunn]

Could not actually be a better time for you to post this thread, thanking you, and the quality of the write up is awesome!!!

A question if I may, when I last looked at the tweeter wiring, it looks a little "thin" to be powering anything of any size? You had any issues?

See my reply above, the Hertz speakers are quite sensitive and it all works fine but if you tap into the loom, rather than tweeter wire, you'll find that the cables are thicker.