Service Checklist Advice Needed :: high miler (E86)

Get the alignment done and see how it feels after that or take it to your garage and get them to check all the bushes and suspension components to make sure everything is ok.

Since we now know there's an alignment issue I'd be getting the garage to check everything over just in case something has been missed in the alignment check.

It'd be silly to waste the money on the alignment only to find something else is knackered and then have to get the alignment done again.

Either way you're getting closer to the problem being fixed.
 
Pretty sure the steering issue is down to the alignment being out and not the sticky steering that can happen on the pre facelift e85.

Have you had the wheels checked and balanced? I had a bad Goodyear Eagle F1 that was checked on the Hunter Roadforce machine. Tyre was basically egg shaped!

If they have the Roadforce equipment get the wheels balanced and they'll be able to exclude the tyres and wheels from the steering problem.
 
skelters said:
Garage 1 sound as if they might have a clue.

Garage 2 not so much.

This made me laugh because garage 1 was an independent, garage 2 was... KwikFit. Haha. I would never trust them to actually do any work on my car, but as they proudly promote having Hunter equipment, I thought they would at least be worth a shot for a free check.
 
Is anyone able to shed some light on these error codes? All errors were cleared a week ago, and these are what popped up when re-tested yesterday.

MCjJINy.jpg

Windows: Interuption :: The windows seem to work fine to me
Alarm... blocked mechanics :: Absolutely no idea what this means
Wiper pump for wheel washing :: "Wheel washing", WTF?

VQQFsRG.jpg

IBUS Transmit error :: ?

3O7vVnE.jpg

Additional heater :: ?

Full Carly log here.

Thanks in advance!
 
I suspect you will be better off taking the German description and getting it translated properly :)
 
Jl-c said:
I suspect you will be better off taking the German description and getting it translated properly :)

Thanks for the tip about looking at the original German language messages. Unfortunately, I was kindly using the Carly OBD reader of a fellow forum member , so I don’t have the device to run these tests again.

I'm not 100% sure if you meant I should run the tests and pull the codes natively in German, or just to translate the messages that were displayed in the above photos?

Looking at the above, there's not a huge amount to translate
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Code: 00000E
Windows: interruption Einklemmschutzleiste Beifahrertuer / Windows: interruption Einklemmschutzleiste or de-normalization / error EKS Electronic Beifahrertuer / HK: Physical or short circuit to U-Batt / COMMON. RELAY NO FAULT

>> Windows: interruption pinch protection strip passenger door / Windows: interruption pinch protection strip or de-normalization / error EKS Electronic passenger door / HK: Physical or short circuit to U-Batt / COMMON. RELAY NO FAULT
    
_
Code: 000043
Car alarm: interior protection back / FH-engine rear passenger blocked or mechanics stiff

>> Nothing to translate

_
Code: 000038
Wiper: pump for wheel washing or container empty / GM IV: relay adhesive MFFZ signal to ground / SRA line interruption or relay SRA / Wiper front: pump for plate washing or container empty / Failure Control SRA, DRM 2

>> Nothing to translate

_
Code: 00E5C7
Central info display / Zentrales Infodisplay :Communication: IBUS Transmit error

>> Zentrales Infodisplay = Central Information Display

_
Code: 0000DA
Additional heater / Zusatzheizung
This fault results from a generic communication issue in the ECU: Additional heater / Zusatzheizung (Internal GR92)


>> Zusatzheizung = Additional Heater
 
For example I don’t think for a minute the literal translation is ‘pump for wheel washing’ can be correct it must mean something else that makes more sense! Possibly headlamp washers? If you don’t have them have a load of options been coded on that you don’t actually have?
 
Doing some internet digging led me to some forums about fault code 000038 relating to the SMG (Sequential Manual Gearbox) pump.

A dodgy translation where "wheel washer" actually means "headlamp washer" seems far more preferable to a gearbox issue. I do have Xenons, so my car is fitted with headlamp washers 🤞🤞🤞

I think I might hold off doing my own research for the time being!!!
 
@eddiemunster: I wondered if you might be able to shed some light on 👆these👆 error codes?

Just to add, if you use Carly/ODB to check for codes, it's worth "re-checking" those codes on here as often they'll be erroneous or a symptom of something else completely (often far less serious).
 
Z-4-FUN said:
@eddiemunster: I wondered if you might be able to shed some light on 👆these👆 error codes?

Generic ODB scanners don't often translate the codes correctly, and they don't often read the codes correctly from the ECU; I had an ABS fault that was supposed to be the driver's front AND passenger front, on the Delphi it came back as only being the passenger rear. Passenger rear changed, both "faults" disappeared.
 
Ah, OK. I was checking the error codes on the advice of the forum, but if the code readers joe public has aren’t up to much (these results came from Carly), perhaps I’ll leave it to the “professionals” – or at least hear what they have to say before I waste too much time digging around. 



The car is booked into the garage later this week. The current to do list for the garage is an “Inspection II service+” [The “+” being a few extra things the forums have suggested]


  • OBD fault check - see what they have to say about any errors
  • Air Filter
  • Oil Filter
  • Pollen Filter
  • Replace Spark Plugs
  • Inspect coils
  • Coolant change
  • Engine Oil change
  • Gearbox Oil change
  • Diff Oil change
  • Brake fluid change and bleed
  • Inspect suspension (bushes, top mounts, control arms, etc).
  • Inspect timing chain tensioners
  • Inspect aux belts
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RE Lubricants

I thought I’d share my thoughts / findings on this in case it’s helpful for anyone else. Personally, I knew nothing about this topic!

Millers comes up as the recommended oil in many threads here, and also Opie Oils have been recommended as a good supplier and a general source of good info...


ENGINE OIL

@skelters suggested a thicker oil due to mileage. Having spoken to Opie, I was informed I needed an oil that meets BMW LL01 or LL04 spec. They recommended sticking with 5w-30 unless the engine is burning excessive amounts of oil, which I’ve not noticed. According to the experts:
The difference is 5w-40 remains thicker when hot, but because it’s thicker, it reduces oil flow, thus providing less protection and putting more strain on components, and reduces power/mpg. If it’s not burning oil, stick with 5w-30.

✅ Millers Oils NANODRIVE EE LongLife 5w-30 Full Synthetic Engine Oil it is then. I think I’ll need about 6.5 litres

GEAR BOX OIL
For a straight swap I was recommended Castrol Syntrans B 75W Fully Synthetic Car Gearbox Oil.

The other way is to mix two oils. Red Line MTL and ATF D4, Amsoil ATF and MTF, or Fuchs Sintofluid 75w-80 and ATF 5005 are the ones that people commonly mix together in those gearboxes.

Opie’s recommendation: A 50:50 mix of:
✅ RED LINE Synthetic Manual Transmission Lubricant MTL 75W-80 GL4
✅ RED LINE D4 Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid

According to the expert:
An ATF is basically a thin gear oil, so reduces the viscosity slightly, making the gear shifts easier… even though the oil is a little thinner, there should be no reduction in protection. It may sound weird to put a ATF product into a manual car but a lot of manual cars use ATF and BMWs are one of the most common ones to do it. It's basically a thin gear oil.

I think I’ll need about 1.5 litres.

DIFF OIL
The car has a normal diff, not a LSD or anything fancy.

Opie’s recommendation: Use a 75w-90 GL5 oil for the diff.
The Fuchs Syn 5, Millers CRX, Red Line 75w-90 GL5, Motul Gear 300, Amsoil Severe Gear and Gulf Competition are ideal. The Fuchs Sintopoid, Castrol Syntrax Longlife, Millers TRX, Motul Motylgear, Mobil SHC and Gulf Syngear are also good choices.

✅ I think I’ll go with Millers Oils CRX 75w-90 NT+ Competition full synthetic transmission oil. I think I’ll need about 1 litre.

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Post-service jobs
• Wheel balancing (Hunter Roadforce) and 4 wheel Hunter alignment + reset steering angle sensor
• Treat it to a wash! 🧽🛁
 
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