This seems to be a debate, whether the non-M's have a front lift point. They do, but you need a special tool. Here's the deal.
First, gotta get the car up far enough to clear a jack. Even my low-profile "racing" jack has a hard time fitting, but 2X8 boards leading up to Rhino Ramps do the trick easy enough.
The secret weapon, though, is this little thing. Mine's a rubber-ish puck, sort of like a hockey puck with a tumor. The rectangular section fits into the stamped-in rectangular depression in the belly pan. You can get them on Amazon in rubbery stuff or machined aluminum, cost between $7 and $15 depending on whether you want it anodized and engraved to match your car. It's called a "BMW lift pad," and similar key words. Mine is the $7 cheap version.
Snuggle the rectangular elevated portion into the stamped depression and up we go. Plenty of lift to get jack stands under the side sill lift points.
There's a hefty crossmember directly above the stamped lift point, it's where the M lift pad is, only the M has a cutout in the bellypan and a rubber lift pad. I guess that costs too much to put on the non-M's.
This is easier and seems safer than lifting at the rear side point far enough to get a jack stand under the front lift pad, all tippy and things.
First, gotta get the car up far enough to clear a jack. Even my low-profile "racing" jack has a hard time fitting, but 2X8 boards leading up to Rhino Ramps do the trick easy enough.
The secret weapon, though, is this little thing. Mine's a rubber-ish puck, sort of like a hockey puck with a tumor. The rectangular section fits into the stamped-in rectangular depression in the belly pan. You can get them on Amazon in rubbery stuff or machined aluminum, cost between $7 and $15 depending on whether you want it anodized and engraved to match your car. It's called a "BMW lift pad," and similar key words. Mine is the $7 cheap version.
Snuggle the rectangular elevated portion into the stamped depression and up we go. Plenty of lift to get jack stands under the side sill lift points.
There's a hefty crossmember directly above the stamped lift point, it's where the M lift pad is, only the M has a cutout in the bellypan and a rubber lift pad. I guess that costs too much to put on the non-M's.
This is easier and seems safer than lifting at the rear side point far enough to get a jack stand under the front lift pad, all tippy and things.
