rust proofing

Davz

Active member
Wellington, Shropshire
Quite surprised to find there is zero rust proofing in the door cavities, admittedly the door will be galvanised but the inside of the door looks to be primered with some of the body colour over sprayed. Thought I would spray some of this into the cavity https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/dynax-s50

Question is, what is the rest of the car like for rust protection, have bmw waxed all other the cavities or non?

Thought I would also coat where the s/top drain plugs are as it will obviously get wet in that area, pros/cons?
 
Hi there Dave,
I have owned my 13 year old e85 for a few months and am impressed by what seems to have pretty effective rust proofing - from my reading in this forum there seem to be few significant problems although rear brake pipes seem to be vulnerable. I previously owned a mx5 and that was a very very different experience. Bilthammer certainly was highly regarded on those forums and I used it myself - on cavities such as chassis rails. I am not sure if z4 door cavities would warrant similar treatment but others might be able offer a more informed pov.
 
Mike6 said:
I know some parts are alloy like boot lid and bonnet. Might be worth checking whether doors are

It’s only the bonnet that’s aluminium, all the other panels are steel :thumbsup:
Rob
 
The only place to my knowledge of any serious body corrosion is where the rear trailing arm bush carrier is bolted to the chassis.
When adjusting the under seal is damaged exposing the steel, Mine has very slight surface rust but nothing a stiff brush and a coating of ACF anticorrosion spray won’t cure. I guess if it’s left it could throw up issues. Everything else is fine.
 
Just doing some rust proofing on mine while doing the clutch, I have found the whole area at the back around the subframe , trailing arms and the mount where the reinforcing beams connect centrally at the back to just behind the jack points be quite rusty , nothing structual but think I've caught it in time. Currently vibrating it all off with an air chisel , rust killer then going for something like chain oil to protect it all (although not fully decided) want something that sits on top then gets that layer of dust as its sticky. It seems where its at its worst is where the stupid underbody covers have trapped moisture in such as the protection plate that sist under the front of the diff area behind the plastic cover that has rusted though pretty much. I'll be putting all the heat shields back on but think I'll give the actual plastic covers a miss as the front end looks in better shape where they have been removed years back allows the air to get in and dry everything???
 
Has anybody got any feedback of using this?

https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-114484-acf-50-anti-corrosion-formula-bottle-with-refillable-pump-action-spray.aspx

There seems to be quite a lot of good feedback for general use, but wondering if anyone has had experience of using it on suspension arms etc early on.
 
Thin fluid film is the best for getting into tight areas but the reason I looked into chain oil is by watching some of the guys on you tube who review how it looks years later after applying, thin film wears off quickly. I want something that doesn't need touching for a few years. Chain oil seems to stick and stay there for a long time, the videos I watched it was still on there years later. The downside is its messy as it collects a lot of dust and dirt on top due to being sticky but still protects as its sat between the dirt and the metal but wipes off.
 
ACF 50 spray is awesome for protecting metals, google it.
I use it exclusively on every nut and bolt I remove, seems to protect the threads for years and have never had one seize in.
For large areas I want to protect I spray it onto the lid and use a brush to apply.
 

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mr nurburgring said:
ACF 50 spray is awesome for protecting metals, google it.
Do you know if it is safe for use with rubber, thinking about effect on suspension brushes?

Anyone tried this stuff, thinking once it is on it will be good for a a few yrs before doing again?
https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/dynax-ub
 
What areas should I be looking at to protect?
I’ve noticed some rust by the drain holes in the doors and a little bit where the rear springs sit.
I’ve used ACF 50 on those bits. Frightened to look elsewhere now 😱
 
mr nurburgring said:
ACF 50 spray is awesome for protecting metals, google it.
I use it exclusively on every nut and bolt I remove, seems to protect the threads for years and have never had one seize in.
For large areas I want to protect I spray it onto the lid and use a brush to apply.

:thumbsup: That’s my next little project sorted.
 
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